Zed Head

Yeah, while you're there. If you could measure resistance across the wire harness pins, the connector, that would tell something about the ECU also. Basically, I could tell if I have an "altitude switch" ECU. I measured three of mine and got differences based on part number but have no idea what the differences mean. Also learned that the ground pins in the ECU are not also grounded to the body of the ECU. They come through different paths. Good luck. Don't sweat if you change your mind, I'll figure it out eventually. My engine is running pretty good right now, but more tricks are always nice.

Mylar transparency sheet might work even better. Thinner.

Not to be a Debby Downer, but investing in classic cars is a crap shoot. "Value" doesn't count until you get the money. We've been posting about overpriced eBay cars for years, that never sell at their inflated prices. Anyway, you might have to wait and watch to find a decent car. Or, since you do have that $11K budget, if you found a dependable shop, you could piece one together. Buy the good body, then pick up a nice engine and transmission, have it all put together. Or buy a nice body with worn engine and have someone like Datsun Spirit or Rebello build you a motor. IT's very hard to find a shop that knows how to build these cars though. And lots of ways to lose money. Might have to get creative, depending on your time frame.

Actually, the altitude switch should be super-easy. First, unplug the switch. Then measure resistance across the switch terminals while sucking on whatever ports/holes are on the switch. I'll bet you get OL or open circuit normally, and zero or very tiny resistance while sucking on the port. If the switch is already very low resistance though, there's not much you can do, it's already activated. After confirming very tiny resistance when sucking on the port, just run a jumper, or short circuit across the two pins in the wiring harness. This will trick the ECU in to thinking it's at high altitude and cut fuel 6%. Or, figure out how to manually actuate the switch, plug it back in and do that. The key is that the switch be just a switch. Full open or full closed, open or closed circuit. If it is, you can't hurt the ECU by shorting the pins in the harness. Either way, it would be good to know if the switch is just a switch or if it has some designed in resistance. If you could measure that, I'll find a way to short my own ECU's just to see what happens. I have spares.

I had a later model (late 77, maybe 78 and up) fuel rail, with the single inlet FPR. I did have to make my own bracket for the new FPR and build a short piece of bent tube to make it work. It sat in the same spot as the factory unit though. It looked right. Just a thought. You might also consider what Fast Woman suggested on mjr45's thread about poor gas mileage, if you have the altitude switch ECU (California model). I've looked at it myself. Shorting pins 9 and 12, or the switch itself if you have it, should drop fuel usage by ~6%. You might even be able to just stick a pencil or stick of wood in to the switch and make it activate. All stock parts! If I was in your shoes, I'd try the altitude switch first. Edit - actually, and I think that Fast Woman suggested this (sorry, I didn't read the details of all of the posts in that thread), you might be able to fake out the ECU by adding a parallel resistance on circuit 9, as show in the diagram. It would be nice to know where Pin 12 goes, if it's just a low resistance path to ground or if it is actually part of an important circuit. Anybody got a CA ECU they could check (maybe I do and just didn't know it - anyone know the serial numbers?), Regardless, if you have the CA ECU, you're set. Easy to try.

I built one of these Bosch adjustable FPR's for my engine. Mainly because they hold pressure just like the factory FPR's do, unlike the blingy aftermarket units. And they look stock, not all shiny and multi-colored. Might be a way to drop your pressure to lean things out and still get past the visual. http://www.dune-buggy.com/turbo/fuelsystem.htm Drop down the page to see it. You don't need to cross-drill, you can just take that point out and drill straight through. It looks like a needle for a seat but it's not. I got the unmodified FPR on eBay, but it was only $40 then - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bosch-0280160001-New-Pressure-Regulator-/321558063760?hash=item4ade5aaa90 There's also Standard's replica - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C81M3E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=30R38L6H5WA0Q&coliid=I2RUPSHCYBARDH Or you can just buy an already modified unit - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062ZGN8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=30R38L6H5WA0Q&coliid=I15L84TK8NOLHZ

Despite the fact that OReilly Auto is known as just another cheap parts store, I've been pretty happy with their return policy. I've even had parts replaced after they found the records on their own computer system. They have a record of all of the stuff I've bought on my phone number. You might try taking that injector in to wherever you bought it and asking for a replacement. In principle, the FJ707's should be more dependable than the FJ707T's. You could point that out when you take them in.

Here's more T stuff - http://www.standardbrand.com/media/1317/e443_digital-resources_standard_the_choice_is_yours.pdf

Standard Motor Products is on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/notes/standard-motor-products/smp-expands-standard-t-series-fuel-injector-offerings/10150184320653954 Here's some cool blow-ups of the injector innards. Don't forget that their job is to sell, sell, sell. When you scroll further down the page. http://www.standardbrand.com/en/products/fuel-injection-fuel-system/

There's a page on the Standard company's web site somewhere that describes the T series. I got the impression that the T series is just a cheaper version of the same injector. The economy version. Same rate and flow pattern though. The stock Nissan injectors don't use any kind of formed flow pattern. It's basically just a straight stream that blows up a little as it leaves the injector. Standard also make T series electronic parts, like ignition modules. Injectors are not "rebuilt", they're just "refurbished". Maybe back-flushed, ultrasonically treated, a new inlet screen might be installed, but that's it. If they're screwed up inside, rusted or whatever, that is not fixed. Barely worth doing with inexpensive injectors.

Looks like April might be the month of the D***. On the internet, that is. http://news.yahoo.com/photos/dilbert-slideshow/20150403-dt150403-gif-photo-050731574.html Edit - Darn it, I can't even depend on the filter.

No problem, you're welcome. Sometimes things are so obvious that they get overlooked.

Have fun. http://schneidercams.com/274FL6.aspx

If you drove it much with the valve lash too tight you might have damaged some valves. "Burned", or warped. Without feeler gauges though, it's hard to see how your "old-school" guy could tell that the lash was too tight. I don't know if I'd use that guy. Why not take it back to the shop that installed the cam? You didn't address John Coffey's post at all. Could the choke be stuck? Seems like a carburetor problem. Three black plugs is too rich, not bad valve lash. I wouldn't let the old-school touch the car.

You can spend a lot of money on an E31 or E88 head to make it about like an N42 or N47 head. The N42 and N47 already have the biggest valves, not bigger but biggest. And, from what I've read, and from what little I know about it, none of the head options have very good chamber designs. And with dished pistons, there is no quench action to consider. If you have the parts and the math works out, the E31 and/or E88 can make sense, but if if you can find one, a stock N42 or N47 will give you everything that a valve replacement on the other heads would give you. It's already done. Seriously, Nissan has already done the work to make a head that works well on an L28 with dished pistons. Anything less than 44 and 35 is choking the engine compared to what the engineers calculated. Just adding for emphasis. A lot of the older racer knowledge was developed to stay within race rules, I believe. You don't need to do that. I would put a list of costs together and just pick the cheapest number that's still within your budget.

Wasn't trying to offend, just make a point that there was plenty there to get the job done. Tried to take the edge off with my edit. It would be nice if you could post at least one picture to match the eight that EuroDat has posted. Good luck with it.

Sorted means fixed? Who knows, when the problem is on the edge of being full time, maybe simple stuff like humidity plays a part. Spark doesn't care how it gets to ground, it's just gotta get there. Another memory from my super-economical past (high school) - I used to carefully lay out the old crusty spark plug wires on my chevy engine to keep the misfires away. Plug wires were too much money.

Just realized that it may not be the weights that set maximum centrifugal timing, but the the slotted plate instead, which seems to be part of the rotor shaft assembly. The numbers are stamped on the plate. It might be a matched set with the weights.

Before you chase you might just check the basic ignition parts, like the cap, the rotor, grounds, module connections, etc. What type of electronic ignition is it? Consider bad gas or a clogged fuel filter also. A solid overall tuneup before getting carried away might be a good idea. I remember once spending hours working on a car before realizing it might just need new spark plugs, Which turned out to be the problem. In your case, those plugs are pretty dirty. The carbon is a short circuit for spark. Once they foul, they're hard to get clean. I'd do a tuneup first.

Blue's car is carbs, the one you listed is EFI. What do you plan to do with the car after you get it?

There's nothing about mileage or engine/transmission condition. Title - clear or salvage. Last time it was registered. Passed emissions? Lots of unknowns. Just a 78 Z that sat in a garage. I would ask a lot of questions.

Thanks for getting back. Burned by the old "more is better" hopes. Were the old injectors a purplish-brown color? Turbo injectors without the turbo parts. "Turbo" has to be better.

Probably. But you never get just one. He has boundary issues.

Gap depends mostly on ignition system. Not cam shaft.

Too much information. I looked at some pictures and don't find anything with intermediate in the name, let alone a plate. Don't forget also, that there have been many types of distributors used on the Z's and ZX's over the years.