Zed Head

We should start a poll thread with all known suppliers listed and just keep track of who's good and who's bad. I've started two specific threads about problems but kind of feel bad that we don't recognize the good work. MSA, for example, did swap a bad mirror for a good one, after I called them. This would give anyone who does their due diligence a chance to see some real-time feedback. Everybody wins.

This is a timely thread. I thought I had a rear seal leak but now it looks like the pan gasket. Surprising how much oil can build up around the perimeter of the pan and slowly leak out over time. So did you use no RTV or sealant at all, just the gasket? Dry on a clean surface? Hylomar Blue is good stuff and stays pliable. Stays pliable so no need to worry about the V part of RTV. The transmission rebuild guys love it. http://www.hylomarsealant.com/

You can get a pressurized air bubble in the filter that doesn't really matter. The float bowls will still fill and that's what counts. But the 11.5 volts is not good at all. 12.6 is standard lead-acid charge. 11.5 is almost dead. But once the engine is running you should be on alternator voltage and that's when your problem happens. But you might be just running on battery power. Verify voltage while running. Low voltage can case weak spark. Found this interesting chart via the Google, post #2 - http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showthread.php?20997-SLA-Battery-Possible-Discharge-Problem

The spindle pin removal is a popular topic of discussion. There is a ton all over the internet to look at: pictures, descriptions, horror stories, etc. Not to be too negative but if you had problems with the lock bolts, the spindle pins themselves will be tough. Sometimes they come out easily but not enough. One trick to get things started and allow some penetrating oil to get in is to put an old lug nut n the end of the spindle pin and spin the pin in its bore. After that, you can tap on the nut and see if the pin moves back and forth. From there it's just a matter of how far you can get it to move and what it gets stuck on. Worst case, people cut the pin in to pieces and press them out later. Here's an example, from Blue's work - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/rearend/index.html And here's the hubs, which are also described in the FSM - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html And bonus stuff - http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Who is Art Singer and how does one buy parts from him? It's tempting to surf Al's site and find all of the stuff he's marked up (there's a bunch) but if he can offer a proper return policy and respond to people's problems that would be reasonable. But a big markup on RockAuto parts, with no returns allowed is just not right. The Wheeler Dealer show probably gave him a big bump in sales though. Easy money, no conscience required.

Could be running rich, or some oil leaking in to the cylinders Too much of one of those petroproducts, not being burned completely. Hard to be sure until you've tuned everything up. Found you an avatar, for those that haven't experienced the large scary bugs. They fly.

Really a shame that there's no response here.

If you want to drive it the most cost-effective route is to refill it with the proper water-coolant blend, drive it, and monitor the situation. If you want to work on it, there are myriad paths you can choose to address the ugly coolant. Not being sarcastic, just saying, some of us buy to drive and some of use buy for garage projects. Either way, a refill and some driving will tell you a lot about the situation. Only cost, with proper monitoring, is the coolant. You might find that the coolant maintains its proper color and clarity and the engine runs fine.

I think that you could easily measure all of those with a scanner, some data-acquisition software and a computer. Very common in the industrial/scientific world. But, maybe expensive. If you did the math you'd probably find that converting to Megasquirt, for data-logging alone, would be the way to go. The tuneable engine management would be a bonus.

I appreciate anybody's efforts to keep these old FSM's available. They are the most important thing, I think, that keeps these old Z's alive. But is your copy different from the Xenons30, or nicoclub copies? 1972 is available there. 1971, though, seems to be unavailable anywhere. On the other hand, maybe we should get copies of all of the FSM's in case those other sites go under, like web sites tend to do. I will ship my paper 1976 original FSM to anybody who will copy it and make it available to classiczcars.com. I don't have that ability. Does anyone know if Kinko's will do that work and how much? Whatever it takes.

The best thing to do is to read the label. If it says compatible, it's probably compatible. Color is a marketing tool, not a professional standard or spec.

Looks like the ZX uses the two longitudinal bolts, like the later 280Z's. From the 82 MT Engine Removal chapter. Weird that they have a special chapter for it, seems like it would be in Engine Mechanical. The transmission mount is considered the third engine mount. Not clear if you meant the crossmember or the rubber. If rubber, the part numbers should be the same at Rockauto or wherever. I have a ZX mount in the garage somewhere. Edit - added some Rockauto stuff.

Probably not a benefit. And the vacuum advance curve of the 83 may be different. Looks like it has a dual stage curve, I can't remember exactly how it works. I think it uses the high vac advance when EGR is actuated so you'd probably be on the 10 degree curve if you just use one vacuum port, as opposed to the 15 or 18 degrees of your 78. On the other hand, that 77 distributor will work just fine with your 78 ignition module. If the breaker plate bearings and other parts are good, it would be worth getting, for a spare. Also, note that the 83 probably uses an E12-92 or -93 module (ID should be molded in to the module case), which takes extra wiring to work right, as opposed to the E12-80 module. Of course, if any of the engines use a rebuilt distributor, all of this may be different. The rebuilders don't match specs. exactly. Stuff to think about...

Here's a picture of the pickup coils. The wires are typically red and green.

Sounds more like a bad electrical connection, or a bad module. The "jumping alive" again part is odd, but does remind me of a problem I've seen described with the wires to the pickup coil in the distributor. The breaker plate moves with intake vacuum and the wires to the pickup coil flex back and forth each time. They can wear through the insulation and short. You might check those carefully. When the engine dies the breaker plate would go back to its starting point and all would be good. You can measure resistance at the terminal block while you twist the breaker plate, or just take the distributor rotor off and look closely. If the distributor is old be careful because the breaker plate bearings get rusty and break their plastic cage. You don't want to do that. If you have a Federal 76, you'll have two pickup coils, one for cold engine and one for warm engine. If you find a bad wire, you can rig things up to use the other. And a cheap but effective ignition module swap is the GM HEI module. Many of us use it. ~$25 and some time.

The selector valve directs vacuum to all three actuators in Defrost mode. Water ****, fresh air door and mode door. A leak in any might weaken another. Actuating by hand would at least answer the question of if it's catching on something. You can only generate so much force with a vacuum actuator. Air pressure limited. Maybe a little extra force to break it free would let it work afterward. You don't need to disconnect it either, just give it some help. If you can reach it.

What kind of meter are you using? All of your numbers seem high. Spec. on the coil is 1.4 ohms. If you don't have an adjustment on the meter, touch the leads together and record that number. Then subtract it from whatever reading you get on the parts. More details on what happened before the engine starts dying might offer a clue. Is the engine still cold or is it hot (ignition module's fail from heat), has it been idling for a while or have you been driving it, is the idle speed low (AFM contact switch), once it starts happening is it repeatable or does it go back to just fine for hours or weeks? Stuff like that. Context.

Here's another thought. Related to the loose damper bolt. That should never happen, and really seems like the most significant thing. I've seen where other people have reported their distributor drive spindle has slipped down in the drive gear and the tang no longer sticks out far enough to grab the distributor groove properly. Maybe the vibrations related to that loose bolt, either causing the loose bolt or caused by the loose damper, made other parts move. I would follow that path and see if maybe a woodruff key sheared or moved (there's three of them, right?), or if the quill dropped in the drive gear. Also, why did the bolt get loose? Could be that something else is coming loose inside the engine. I would have broke a sweat when I saw that loose bolt. Just because it seems like a big deal. But that's me, and I've never rebuilt an engine.

Is the damper itself still in good shape? Still damping? Maybe the timing mark you're looking at has moved. On the low pressure - different gauges can read different pressures, due to internal volume variation. Low pressure might not be relevant, but does fit changed cam timing. I'm a big fan of the notch and groove for checking that the cam and all of the other parts are in their proper relation to each other. Does the Web cam not use the notch and groove? Cam lobes up is not the most precise. That's what struck me when I read your first post. Also, on spark - current through the coil will determine strength of spark. Changing ignition system parts won't change power supply. Maybe you've got a fried power supply wire to the coil and module.

Took a picture of an R200 diff nose on a mount. Everything is inboard of the mount. That rusty crack I circled in that other picture is just something hanging off the body. A broken u-joint might cause some clanking and locking. Or a broken differential.

Snipped a copy and circled what I think you're talking about. Haven't looked at a diff lately so not sure what that is.

A follow-up to zcarnut - AC mode is all spring-actuation and cables. Defrost requires the vacuum pots to overcome the springs. Maybe you've got a stuck magnet valve or split hose, and the springs win the battle. Does the idle RPM increase when you go to Defrost mode, or switching between other modes? That was one of the signs of a split hose for me, the vacuum leak increased my idle RPM.

I've had my car on stands, with the wheels hanging, and the half-shaft angles are are too steep for the u-joints with the wheels hanging. I think that was with KYB shocks. They'll make that rat-tat-tat noise even with everything in good shape. The length of the shock at full extension will affect that. So, you might have missed the real problem. I think that you need to get the stands under the control arms so that the wheels and half-shafts are in the normal driving orientation. But if the diff was bouncing around because of u-joint binding that's still not right. The diff should be pretty well held in place by the front mount and the mustache bar.

Well then, Patcon's suggestion is the way. You'll have to twist your way back there or lay on your back to get to the screws. Use a short screwdriver. Take a flashlight and a few other pokey-proddy tools to move the lever. The panel might have some sealant holding it in place, try not to bend it, it's just vinyl-covered cardboard. When you're done, get some stick-on weatherstrip and seal the complete perimeter of the panel. It will keep exhaust fumes out. You can slide the lock holding clip off with the panel off and remove the lock, then actuate the lever from the outside hole, I believe. If you don't have another lock to put in its place.

The Ford swap is not common. Your best bet would be to have someone build one for you. http://www.technoversions.com/MotorMatchHome.html Here's the web site where he documents the swap - http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion.htm