Zed Head

I had a certain 205-70-14 tire (can't remember which brand) on my factory alloy wheels and they rubbed slightly when cornering hard. I think it was just a touch on the fender lip. Rolling it probably would have fixed it, but I got new tires of the same size and it stopped. That's on a lowered car, Tokico springs on a 280Z. There's not a ton of room in there. Control arm bushings might play a part also, but, somewhat ironically, the loose factory rubber might be better to avoid rubbing since it lets the body move away from the outside tire, which tends to get closer to the fender lip on a hard corner. Lots to think about. I've had a whole range of cars over the years that rubbed, from the inner fender well to the outer edge. How you plan to use the car matters.

It's harmony01. Who never actually closes a sale, apparently. http://www.ebay.com/sch/harmony01/m.html?item=162128506902&viewitem=&rmvSB=true&forcerRptr=true&afsrc=1&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Think I found it. Toyota 4 piston truck calipers with 300ZX rotors. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/39435-help-what-brake-options-are-available-for-s30-z-cars/ http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5705

Just noticed your offset question. Your rotor/disc is offset, but your wheels are not. The spacers are behind the wheel mounting surface, moving the rotor inboard. So you're running normal offset wheels, probably. There's a big selection out there.

Don't forget the off-setting problems theory either. He might be thinking the coolant sensor isn't involved becuase they usually run rich when that's a problem. But you seem to be running lean. He's focused on lean. A shorted coolant sensor circuit would cause lean. By the way the sensor is often shortened to CTS.

OP means original poster. The guy that started the thread. Yes, the sensitive tech problem. It shows up occasionally. People will get on to a forum and announce that they are an ASE certified tech but then realize that they don't know how these old systems work. Lots of teeth-gnashing and nasty words ensue, typically. If you want to give him the foundation for the whole system show him the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter, and the "fuel enrichment" chart. It's all about adding fuel to a base injector open time. Then he can reason things out as he goes. More satisfying.

I mentioned that in #82 but it's buried in other words. The OP is probably at that point where he's thinking "maybe I should replace all of this EFI stuff with carbs?"

Home Depot press-on weather strip around the cardboard panel is the cheapest fastest. But working on the other stuff is fun anyway. Thanks for the part numbers cliffunseen. Added to my list of extra stuff I should buy.

Your front brakes have been "upgraded". I think that Toyota calipers are the common one. Look around for "big brake" kits to see more. Welcome to old Z car world.

Actually, the wide open part isn't adjustable. So it might just be dirty or the wires are shorted. It's a fairly crude mechanism.

Not trying to overload you. That one test result, showing wide open throttle, should be causing your engine to run really gassy though. So you must have another problem, or that result is wrong. Easy to get the probes in the wrong spot. Once you have an out-of-spec. result though, then you can focus on what that part of the system controls.

Like site said, it's adjustable. Engine Fuel chapter. Really can't emphasize enough how one of the main things that make these cars so easy to own, fix, and maintain, is the availability of the free Factory Service Manuals. The TPS can get dirty also. Note that we call it the TPS but it should really be TVS.

You might have overlapping wrongness then. Because the test results would be showing the ECU that you have the throttle wide open. That adds 27% extra fuel to whatever the base calculation is, which should cause it to run better when cold and bad when warm. Gassy smelling and rough running when warm. But the fact that it runs better warm would indicate a lean mixture. Which could be a shorted coolant temperature sensor circuit (page 56 in the 1975 EFI Guide), indicating a very warm engine to the ECU, and removing fuel. That might be the popping when cold, but runs okay when warm. The ECU thinks it's very hot and removes fuel, but the WOT (3-18 continuity) indication adds fuel. Or you might just have low fuel pressure (lean), or clogged injectors, being compensated for by the WOT 3-18 results. 23 degrees is way advanced timing for the EFI engines. Spec. is probably 7 or 10. Many people run a little extra, like 12-15 to add some throttle response and a bit more power. You have an engine that runs which is more than many. But you have to get all of those small details right. Once you start knocking some down it's not a bad process. Set your timing to 7 degrees when warm for starters. That's where it should be. Picture from the Engine Tuneup chapter.

You can't get to the nuts that hold the studs unless you remove the inside panel. You need a think pokey thing to remove the rivets. And you'll probably lose some of the black spaghetti pieces.

You can't get to the nuts that hold the studs unless you remove the inside panel. You need a think pokey thing to remove the rivets. And you'll probably lose some of the black spaghetti pieces.

You're right. I even forgot that I gave somebody the same advice just a short while ago, that there was no guarantee the PO had it right. Even referred to it in my post above, "people get it wrong all the time". They get the oil pump installed wrong too. In that previous thread, the PO did have it wrong and the new owner put the wires where they were supposed to be. When he put them where they weren't supposed to be it worked like it used to.

Considering that the car had some questionable work done to it and probably sat for a while, have you changed the fuel in the tank? If it sat for over a year, it could have bad fuel. Also, fuel pressure is critical to proper operation of these systems. The tanks are known to generate rust and cause fuel pressure problems. Worthwhile to measure it. Good that you've already solved some problems and know more about the state of the engine. Might be worthwhile to tell as much as you can about how long you think that car sat, what, in detail, you've done to it since you got it, and how, exactly, it's running and driving.

Actually partial should have been many many ohms, like kohms (kilo-ohms, thousands) or infinite, and full should have been low, as shown. For Test 1 (2). But you're only saying open, not fully open. So not clear if you had the throttle wide open or only partially open. Either way, that measurement would show full throttle to the ECU, adding extra fuel. When there's continuity (very low ohms) on 3-18, the ECU adds a lot of extra fuel. Not clear what "running badly" means either. Is this driving, or idling, or revving? At least you know the timing is correct, Although you didn't report the number,or if it advances like it should when revving. Sorry, we've asked you step in to a messy world. But you know some things for sure now. I copied the test I think that you mean by Test 2. The TPS has three states - idle, not idle (partial), and full throttle.

Cars drag a pocket of dirty air behind them. The air passing over the sides of the car creates a pressure differential inside the car. The air pocket at the back is higher pressure than inside the car. So whatever is in that pocket of air will be pushed inside, through any small holes The hatch framework has holes that can't be sealed easily like where the latch attaches. The big vinyl covered panel on the inside of the hatch lid is open to the framework. It can be be sealed to stop the air flow. Simple adhesive weatherstrip will do the job.

Dave gave a good list. It looks long but each item is simple. Things get overlooked like the fact that the crankcase (the valve cover) is connected to the intake system, through the PCV system. So even a missing dipstick is a vacuum leak. And the tests at the EFI plug are simple "poke and read the meter" tests. Just resistance measurements. Grab a pen and paper and write down what you measure also. People often come back and say the numbers checked out, but don't say what they were.

You've reached thrashing about stage. Once you get here it's best to go back to square one and build back up. That would be to confirm that the plug wires are in the correct holes. Since you didn't remove the oil pump, it's probably safe to assume that the distributor is installed correctly. Take the cap off, turn the engine until the rotor is pointing forward and the timing mark is at zero. Then put #1 in and install the others in the right and order and rotation direction. People get it wrong all the time.

Correct ignition timing and firing order is critical.

Use this book to verify that the coolant temperature sensor is correct and connected, and the AFM. Your symptoms sound a little bit like the AFM isn't connected, and the engine is running on the idle enrichment only. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/31-efi-book-1975/

Everybody's just recommending that you check that the carbs aren't gunked up. Even a dry carb will get some slight corrosion of the aluminum that can cause friction, if it's in a moist environment. They're sensitive creatures. Sometimes it's worse when they're off because they might sit tilted. Then the varnish sticks on unusual parts.

I think that IGN is actually the fusible link that supplies those fuses. Just realized something. IGN, ACC, HL, and the main link (BAT). Not sure what ST is doing there though.