Zed Head

Not really, what you did is still informative. I was trying to figure out how you got voltage from the alternator to the battery with your main link blown. No need to do it over, you've shown that the alternator works correctly. So if that link is blown then you must have been backfeeding through the other link or through other stuff wired in to the harness. According to the 1975 diagram the only other way in to the positive terminal is through the EFI circuit. Not really sure how it backfeeds in that way. I would measure resistance to ground on both sides of the main link that blew. If you have a short to ground it will just blow again.

72 or 77? I've noticed that Nissan seemed to do different wiring schemes over the years. On my 76, they run power directly from the alternator to the fusible link and to the fuse box. If the diagram I'm looking at is right (it shows the a red fusible link as the main one and black as a secondary - I think Saridout got the colors backward). 75 only has two links at the terminal blocks, they went to four in 76. So if the main one blows, the fuse box is all that gets power.

Forgot to say, his VR could still be bad. He had charge, maybe backfeeding, then it goes away. I'm guessing he has a short, it fried his VR, and he's been getting backfeeding through the ignition circuit. Just playing the solve-the-problem game...

He smoked an OE link the first time, I think. I'd use the meter and see if one side is shorted to ground before going too far. Easy to do.

I was writing the above while posts were being posted. Not sure where it fits in to the latest data. Still, fusible links should never burn (that's why the Maxifuse upgrade seems like a fruitless endeavor, to me). I've never burnt one. So, your real concern should be about what caused the link to blow. Examine all of the wires involved for insulation breaks and contact to ground.

When you measured the 16.47 volts, was that at the A terminal, not the battery terminal? 1975 feeds two links directly, one from the alternator and the other after the Ammeter. The Black Alt/Ign. Relay link is the main charging wire, although I'd think it might backfeed through the green Ignition link, which might explain why you're still getting some charging. Maybe the meter is the problem after all. The Black link is fed through the Ammeter. If the Ammeter was shorted it would blow the link as battery current passed through it. Whatever is going on, you must have a short somewhere. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

Just thought this is odd. Seen it before with other words in other threads. "Disassembling" converted to "stripping". And the original thread wasn't edited. Edit - Maybe it's Tapatalk. Whatever that is.

Do you mean regulator, not meter? When you connected F to A you had the voltage regulator (VR) out of the system ( I assume that you unplugged the F-N plug to do the test). I would remove the regulator and post a picture of it. See if you can tell if it's the original points VR, or a newer solid-state unit. Not really sure how the originals typically fail. Solid-state components can do odd things when they go bad though.

That's a good idea about the Charge light. On the internally regulated alternators, the Charge light would not light if the L wire was disconnected, and charging would stop. But with externally regulated systems L runs to the VR. Looks like F comes straight through from Ignition and the charge light just indicates the balnce between A and the battery. So, it should light if charging stops, I'd think. So, good question - what is the Charge light doing?

He's a couple of simple steps away. He has the meter, the engine runs, he's taken measurements. He just needs to take a few more measurements, with the right conditions. He knows the alternator will charge. He just doesn't know why it stops doing it.

That's odd. Others might know a component level reason for it (I don't), but what you're saying is that either the VR or the alternator stops working at higher RPM or higher current/voltage. You really need find a way to attach your leads to the battery terminals and work the throttle by hand while watching the meter to get some more information. If you get charging at idle but it kicks off at higher RPM, then the F to Bat test might tell you if it's the alternator or the VR. I would connect the meter to the battery, start the car, and confirm that charging kicks out at higher RPM. Then connect F to Bat and do the same. If it keeps charging at higher RPM (don't rev too high) then you most likely have a VR problem. If it's a solid-state VR it could just be that the circuitry can't handle the heat. If it still stops charging at higher RPM with F to Bat, then it's the alternator.

Seems like some facts are being convoluted. The alternator charged, at least for a short while, according to the above. And the fusible link fried a year ago. But now the alternator doesn't charge. Post # 6 - " I just had tested the car when at 2000 RPM and it read 12.07v." Just saying there's odd things going on. Maybe a loose Lamp wire? No Lamp, no charge.

Looks to me like everything is working correctly. As noted, the alternators don't put much out at idle RPM. If your eight starts were just to get the engine idling so you could work on it, it might be that you just need to start driving it. The burning link though, from the past, might be because of an intermittent short. It could be the short that's your problem, not the charging system. If you rev the engine to ~2000 RPM and charging voltage increase to ~14 volts, there won't really be anything to fix in the charging system.

Pretty cool Jai. I feel like classiczcars.com won something. Looks great. I started to zoom in on that girl's belly to see what was written there but had to stop.

I'd probably go Duralast if I was going to do another. Their transmission mount was good quality. http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/motor-mount/duralast-motor-mount/4762_0_12553/?checkfit=true The picture looks like site's Anchor though.

I bought some of the mounts with no attached nut and did not have the problem. But I had to supply my own four nuts and bolts, and the threads on the stud were buggered up. Poor quality overall. Can't remember the brand. Maybe people could list some brands, and we'll find a good one. Sounds like Anchor has the mismatched peg.

Do you mean the peg, not the circle? Basically made a 1/2 peg? You could also file the peg down flat,then drill and tap a hole n the right spot. Run a small bolt through, or just a press fit rivet in an unthreaded hole, and you have a new peg. Looks like the mounts changed in 73. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/engine-mounting/manual-from-c-hls30-46001-rls30-grls30

$21,600. 3 d 17h left.

Is that one of those European cars? Noting shows on the link. Maybe you have to be a member.

Might just be toxicity. Silicone fluids are generally non-toxic.

They are identical (but not symmetrical) and someone did flip one for the other side. Nissan. That's they way they made 'em. Everybody takes a pause when they first see that.

I think that it helps to remove the bolts, maybe just one, holding the struts to the brackets though. They stick out and stop the edge from sliding by. It's a tough job.

Probably hard to find a non-purple DOT 5. It's purple so that some well-meaning mechanic doesn't cause a huge problem by topping off with a non-DOT 5 fluid. Compatibility.

The "pump" is the engine, vacuum comes from the intake manifold. The bottle is right next to the magnet valves so you'd have to run some extra vacuum hose or move the valves also. It should be easy enough to do though, just run more hose. The bottle/reservoir needs to be stiff enough to withstand the external pressure.

Sounds like progress. The TVS is an important component. Ignition timing needs to be right also, of course. If you get to where it runs great, but just has a slight hesitation at mid-range throttle, consider adjusting the coolant temperature sensor circuit resistance. It's a common fix. The 280Z's seem to have been tuned to the edge originally for emissions and economy, and many have ended up too lean over the years. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html And, of course, fuel pressure,