Zed Head

You might find that the piece cracks off if you wiggle it. Then you could clean it thoroughly and fasten it back where it belongs. I was going to suggest brazing or soldering before, but thought you were avoiding taking the cover off. I've seen JB Weld fixes on tougher spots than that though, That would probably be fine. No real load except the bolt tension. Looks like somebody might have tried to fix it before by the silicone-looking goop in the seam.

I did not know that. More learning. sb did say L28 block but it's all looking like low CR L24. Reading back looks like he meant that he took the L24 head off to use onthe L28 but changed his mind about the L28 since the L24 was in good shape. Diseazd seems to know what's going on. Collecting the facts, it looks like a rebuilt, ovebored low CR, 1973 L24 with an E31 head. Maybe it could have just been left together and run? Surprise.

Does BMW use the same goofy front cover scheme, with bolts torqued orthogonally on the same general piece of metal? I was just looking at The L6's front cover bolt arrangement. If you get the timing cover on the low end of its hole/bolt tolerances you end pulling across a fairly big unsupported gap when you put the top bolts in. Anyway, I wonder if flushing it with a good solvent, maybe with vacuum behind it, then using some Loctite thread sealer would do it. Made to wick in to tight spots, fill the gap, stand the heat, not too sensitive to oil, etc. Easier to burn off than epoxy if you do need to weld. http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/loctite-industrial-assembly-repair-13281.htm I think that you could push some epoxy in there also. Use the bearing packing technique, just keep pressing it in to the gap with your thumb. Use an epoxy with a long open time.

Those pistons indicate that somebody had plans for lots of valve lift and duration. The head and cam might be interesting.

You can still get some of them from the dealer (looks like 16 tooth is NLA from Courtesy though). Not sure how, exactly, to get the right part number, but they are out there. But you need to specify which transmission you're using. 4 speed, early 5 speed, late 5 speed? The early and lates use a different housing, but you can always just swap the plastic gear and shaft.. The last number is the tooth count. Here are some examples. Don't forget that the tooth count matches the rear diff ratio, not the transmission. http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/3270258s18 http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/3270258s17 http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/3270258s19 http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/3270258s16 http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-pinion-assy~32702-58s16.html I think those numbers are for the late 5 speed. These seem to be the early numbers. Looks like the 16 tooth is available for early, if the numbers are right. Short answer - the dealers still have access to a lot of old parts. http://czot.org/forum/showthread.php?1760-Speed-Pinion-Gear-and-Housing-Combinations-(-70-78-240-260-280Z) http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/3270378100

Groovy. Looks familiar. Yours seems a little bulky compared to the factory piece. Is there nothing of lighter weight out there?

The year of car or transmission, does not matter to clutch parts. The clutch fork pivot ball is in the same location on all of the B type transmissions. The throwout bearing collar (the casting that carries the throwout bearing and has the ears that the clutch fork ride on) has to match the pressure plate. That's the most important thing. You shouldn't try to buy a clutch using year of car on these old vehicles. Know what size flywheel you have, and buy a clutch kit for that flywheel. The main reason to know your transmission is for the gear ratios and replacement parts. There are several combinations out there.

Nasty. And this all was happening while you owned and drove it? They used to work, and were slowly failing? The old PO trap. Scary. Makes me want to go do some preventive examination on my car.

The internet says they've always been the same - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column/28 Another thought, that's always bothered me a bit. There are/were several companies making polyurethane bushing replacements. There is a huge range of hardnesses possible with polyurethane, from goo to wood-hard. So one company's bushing could be hard and another's soft, but they're both polyurethane. Seems like even the hockey pucks come in two, practice and game. Really hard/difficult to compare.

Curb service? How did you get that? Market development?

The 280Z's do have a dedicated ground wire. I thought all of the Z's did, but maybe not. People often don't check their ground circuits though. madkaw, how did the pump impeller look? Just curious. And did the Damper Doctor say what he thought he did wrong? Bad batch of silicone, didn't prime the metal,...? Kind of concerning. I wouldn't send him anything until I heard the story. Just me.

Channeling my inner English teacher - two possibilities were described, and you said "looks like exactly what happened". Literally, that means both things happened since you did not differentiate between the two. Did both things happen? What's a DRL?

One of my memorable Gene Wilder scenes is the one with Madeline Kahn in Young Frankenstein. I was young and it made me feel funny. Schwing. Edit - it might have been Blazing Saddles...

Can't believe I watched that whole thing! You have PVC, polyvinylchloride, on your mind. As opposed to PCV. I think that the Nissan remedy is probably a way to exchange one problem for another. The original setup, yours and mine, gums up the AAR and the throttle blade, causing high idle. The fix, plumbing the gases between AFM and TB, probably eventually gums up the AFM and the throttle body/blade. But it probably takes longer. Since you know all of this stuff, if your idle sticks high you'll immediately think about AAR or throttle blade. So the work involved in swapping AFM and PCV hoses doesn't really buy you much, you know what it is and how to fix it. If you were going to sell the car I could see it for their convenience. But it doesn't do much for you.

Almost forgot that I had gone through your search before, myself. Part #12. I was wrong above, it's not steel wool, it's more like a piece of gun barrel brush. Discontinued at Courtesy. Spelled with an "e" also. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/emission-control-device/12 http://www.courtesyparts.com/oe-nissan/15296n4200

It's essentially just a piece of steel wool, but more prickly and stiff. I replaced my PCV hose with a piece of water hose 60,000 miles ago. No arrestor and the hose is fine. I like to live on the edge though. I still have the old hose, hard as wood, with the arrestor inside it.

Funny how many translate the "lead" in to steel and what Humble references, in to the factory issued piece shown in the FSM. On the other hand, Humble seems to be the only person that actually knows about the parts, and he got his part numbers confounded with the early part numbers. He did a lot of writing about it. He has to have seen hundreds of the big L-shaped steel plates though, that bolt on to the bottom. Who knows. I just want to see one of the differential companion flanges with a rubber damping piece, like a harmonic damper. That would be cool. Seems like it might be a unicorn though.

Aaacck. No more prizes for RedBird with that thing in there. Since you had AC before all you really need is a good compressor, and system cleaning and purging, I think, assuming that your evaporator is intact. I think a good AC shop could replace the seals to work with modern lubricants and you might be fine. Post #8 looks promising, with capable Sam. I see that I'm basically repeating what everyone has already suggested. Old Datsun is often better than new.

What does "does not fit correctly" mean? It's installed, so it must fit a little bit. Just wondering.

Edit - here's a cheaper version - http://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-Datsun-Technical-Service-Bulletins-Manual-Nissan-/371690698878 The right part numbers might be in here - https://www.amazon.com/Datsun-Truck-Technical-Service-Bulletin/dp/B017PZ7GMM?SubscriptionId=19FZ002EVKGD47C50K82&tag=datsun280zparts.com-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B017PZ7GMM Maybe they just took that early R180 weight, that bolted on to the bottom, and bolted it to the top of the diff nose for the 280Z. Same part numbers. Odd that they used 7/16" bolts. I'm guessing that they used the two back unused holes of the R200 diff mounts and just strapped it on there. The companion flange must be a fine piece of engineering though.

The 2/3 scheme is probably the atlanticz scheme? I've posted on that relay before, it's the brake check warning light relay. I rewired mine to the fuel pump power circuit. If you don't want to mess with it, you could just unplug it, but the light won't work. The 11.92 volts instead of 12.5 might be because of the voltage drop from the relay, I think it's on what is used as the Sense wire. The only wire that you really need from the harness is the L wire. The S wire can be run separately to the battery or starter lug. The brake light relay power wire can be fixed separately. The key is that yellow wire to the relay only gets power when the engine is running. That's why I used the fuel pump power, plus the wire runs right next to the passenger seat, so easy to tap in to it The engine running is what actuates the relay to turn off the brake light. The 76 alt swap discussion discussion pops up periodically and sometimes gets out of hand. Good luck.

No, that's the standard factory issue damper plate. It's actually shown in the Rear Axle chapter of the FSM. Gary L is talking about a retrofit kit that Nissan produced,with a lead weight on top of the diff. (Don't know why he used atop, a bit archaic there Gary L...)

Read this thread, it might cover it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56054-afm-to-tb-boot-no-port/ The smog tech might have access to the recall bulletins. Check the hood for a sticker, it might have a number on it. If it does, post the number in the other thread so we can Google it Keep an eye on the temperature gauge. These engines like to blow head gaskets after overheating, due to head warpage. Hope yours didn't get that hot. The shop screwed up big time by not topping off the coolant after spilling some. They should have known better.

I want to see the companion flange with the rubber damper that comes with the kit. Humble posted a kit number but it seems to be for the earlier 240Z R180 kit, not the 1975 kit. 99991-20000

I think that I loosened the bolts to the other part of the mount, the bracket that actually bolts to the engine block. When I replaced the mounts with the engine in, and later when I replaced the engine. Leave them all loose, wiggle everything in to place, get them aligned, tighten them all back up. It was some extra nut and bolt turning, but it worked out well. That was with aftermarket mounts. Which did not need any filing or pin modification. OReilly purchase, very poor quality. 1976 car.