Zed Head

I wonder if you have the wiggly connector issue. There's a fair record of sporadically bad ECU's out there. I'll see if I can dig some threads up. Here's one. The guy hasn't been around for a while. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/34229-280zzx-ecm-tech/ Some wiggle the connector comments - http://www.zdriver.com/forums/280zx-s130-forums-77/resoldering-ecu-31290/ Of course, all of these people and me included could just have been doing random things and the act of taking the ECU apart and putting it back together was what "fixed" the problem.

Maybe the lock bolt is just there to keep the spindle pin from falling out if a nut comes loose. Maybe the spindle pin nuts aren't even really necessary. Hmmm....

Brass tacks and all that (whatever that means, I've never really known). Dave had a problem, he swapped ECU's and the problem went away. In the interest of avoiding distraction and unnecessary excursions maybe re-installing the "bad" ECU would be worthwhile. If the problem follows the ECU, it's the ECU. Right? Just saying...

He removed the CSV entirely and nada. That's a good point about two transistors. Maybe I replaced mine for the wrong reason and the problem is still there. My dinking around might have moved something. Although if one transistor is sticking its injectors open there might be enough fuel to go around. I replaced the transistor because I thought the symptoms were similar to bad ignition modules and also thought that's why they failed. But I could be wrong there also. Sometimes I just try stuff and it works, but the reason why may be unclear. Can't remember if the transistors are split n to two and four like the dropping resistors or if it's three and three. It's been discussed before. I think that CO knows. There are so many things that add injector open time. Any one of those circuits could be bad, I'd guess.

Spare parts are cool. Can't have too many. I had a similar situation but I was testing my spare. It was bad itself and killed the engine dead. There's actually quite a bit on this forum about the rich ECU problem. There was a guy called Night Train or Mad Dog (Boone's Farm maybe?) who suggested re-flowing all of the solder at the connector pins. He said that wiggling the connector cable while driving could fix it temporarily. Other people kick the ECU to knock things back in to shape. In my case, I replaced the transistors and that fixed it. There seems to be more than one cause. Edit - I also have a spare known-good ECU, and ignition module, behind the seat.

Wow, that's a lot of money. So glad the guy taking the pictures for that BAT ad wasn't naked.

That is correct, you're just pushing the air out and if the end of the tube is in the fluid no air should get sucked back in. Bubbles that don't make it all the way out could get sucked back though. So clear tube is advised so that you can see the bubbles. Another consideration is to have the front end of the car lifted so that the bubbles will be up by the bleed port. Be the bubble.

People have replaced the spindle pin with a 5/8" bolt and not had obvious problems. So the lock pin is apparently not necessary. It would be interesting to assemble all of the metal parts but leave the rubber out (you'd have to remove it from a factory bushing or replicate the inner and outer sleeves from metal tube) and see how it all fits together. Under driving conditions the rubber certainly flexes allowing the metal parts to move. The question is how far they move and how the loads are distributed. I'm guessing that there are three areas of load transfer - the ends of the spindle pin and the lock pin. The metal of the casting is probably much more rigid than the stamped sheet metal of the control arms. The spindle pin is drawn and worked steel. It's a puzzle.

I meant friction as the "locking points". Friction at the contact points locking it in place. I think it's just rough cut steel edges riding on each other. With lots of leverage due to the diameter of the part. Blue has the good pictures. You might even be able to "pick" each contact point with a piece of shim stock or similar to let it slide.

If a press made it easier to assemble it might also disassembly. Get the pressure off the locking points so you can trun the pieces.

Head bolts, cam tower bolts, front cover bolts, all the same issue. Steel bolt in aluminum substrate. Metal stretches and compresses. It's elastic. The high end head bolt guys use a stretch calculation for their tightening. So many degrees of turn equals so much force exerted, based on bolt stretch. It's just one of many things that might work. Probably comes down to what operations you're comfortable doing. The welder likes welding. the chemistry guy likes adhesives, the machinist-type might like the drill and tap idea. You could probably paint the inside of the head at the crack with glyptal and be fine. I don't even really know what glyptal is but race engine guys coat the inside of their blocks with it. Apparently it sticks. http://www.glyptal.com/

A thought that popped in to my head a day or two ago - drill and tap a hole through the cracked piece in to the meat of the head, countersink the loose end, and pull the crack closed with a small screw.

In principle, yes, the pin end threads are meant to lock the inner sleeve solidly to the casting. So, extending the concept, the casting, pin, inner sleeves, washers and nuts all become like one solid piece of metal, capturing the control arm ears. But I think that the ends of the pin do see a strong tensile force at times through the washer, nut and threads. One ear of the control arm presses on the washer, the other ear presses on the casting. The ear of the control arm pressing on the washer stretches the pin, and the lock pin sees the load. Everything has some degree of elasticity. I didn't really spell that out up there, not sure I was even thinking of it clearly. But it is there! I pondered this long ago when I was looking down that casting hole with a rat tail file knocking down the lock pin hole deformation so I could get the pin back in. And there's the leverage to factor in when the control arm gets twisted, which it does under acceleration and braking. Constant twisting and levering, opening up that sleeve/casting interface, stretching and releasing the pin. It looks like a great idea on paper, not knowing how loose everything will really end up when all of that rubber is inserted between the metal pieces. Best laid plans. Anyway, that's my theory. Morning coffee.

"No brown"? Euphemism? You need a special tool, I think.

I think that it's driving forces that cause the deformation. When the spindle pin is locked, the pin and the casting become essentially one piece. The loads of the wheel are transmitted to the transverse links (aka control arms) through either contact with the casting on one side or the nut, washer and pin on the other side. The pin gets loaded back and forth and that load gets transmitted to the casting through the pin. That's where the deformation comes from, I think. That's why some spindle pins slide right out and some don't. They both got torqued to the same spec at the factory. If you leave out the lock bolt then the pin slides back and forth in the casting as loads shift. Hard to tell what the engineers intended when they put that package together. Maybe the lock pin is mainly for manufacturing ease, or maybe it has am automotive purpose. Who knows.

Three heat sources are there - conductive (what you're talking about above), radiative (anything hotter than the fuel line will radiate heat across space to the colder object), and convective (hot air blowing over colder objects and losing heat energy). They're all in play and hard to tell which way the heat is going, in or out, or which one is more powerful. I feel nerdy now... At the other end of the circuit, the return line in to the tank, the fuel is bringing heat back from the engine bay. The tank contents warm up over time. Could be that deadhead systems don't benefit from insulation and return systems do. Or the size of that orifice is critical for more than just pressure. Cool fuel. Didn't someone mention insulating the mounting points of the fuel rails, somewhere back in this thread or another. That could remove the conductive path. Interesting topic. I've put lots of thought in to the EFI analog. I have insulation for both convective and radiative heat sources, heat from the exhaust manifold, but left the rail (aluminum) uninsulated so that it could lose heat from the injectors. The convective effect seemed to be pretty large, lots of heat coming up from the hole in the center of my exhaust heat shields. Tiny hole, lots of channeled hot air. How about a radiator for the fuel?

They're in the Service Manual. Engine Mechanical, Specifications.

Just realized that everyone is focused on the engine bay, but it's really accumulated heat energy that matters. If the gas in the tank gets warm, then that extra heat energy in the engine bay will have more impact. Low fuel level probably "locks" faster than a full tank. Heat from the road will radiate up and and transfer to anything moving over it, even at high speed. I wonder if insulating everything, including the tank, from back to front would help. Even just a good shield between the tank and muffler might help. Many of those shields get lost or removed. Lowered cars might have more problem than standard height, from both radiative heat and lower air flow. If I had the problem, I'd insulate everything I could find.

Well, good luck with it. I'll just point out another inconsistency, the kind that has the taint of scamminess. You say you want to do a service, and that you "scrub through Craigslist and eBay weekly to aggregate ads " but still require information. Why is it required, if you're going to scrub/find it anyway, and you're doing a service? Those two things don't fit together. That's when people start looking closer and wondering where those spam e-mails or phone calls came from. I know that there are training courses out there about how to monetize people, on the internet. But if it's too obvious, people will reject it.

Seriously, I, and probably others, hope you're for real. But there doesn't seem to be a lot of substance, and there is some risk. You're spread thin. http://www.totalautonetwork.com/

Another thought - Maybe siteunseen missed the part on the contact form about sharing., and TAN shared the data with the "cash buyer". If so, that's on TAN. Additional information collected, tracked and stored via an SQL database includes messages, comments our other data directly submitted through this site. How Personal Data and Information is Utilized The following are the ways in which visitor data and information is used: To customize this website for a more enhanced user experience To send website communications To share with third party providers (only after permitted by visitor, or as explicitly designed by contact form or other input mechanism)

Let me see if I can do some mediating/moderating/arbitrating. Apparently siteunseen used the site to try and get his craigslist ad listed. He gave his email address. Whoever he was dealing with would not post the CL ad unless he got a phone number. siteunseen did not want to give his phone number and thought the deal was dead. Subsequently siteunseen has received phone calls from irritating people and thinks that they came through the 240zforsale site. Total Auto Network AKA 240Zforsale, to be known henceforth as TAN, is just pulling content from the internet to build a web site. It's unclear who siteunseen was talking to or if it's connected to TAN. But the coincidence is suspicious to siteunseen. Note to TAN - this site, the CZCC site is where we "chat about zcars". If we call your number and it's not blocked then you can add it to a list and sell it to telemarketers. That's not good. If you get our email address you can sell it to internet marketers also. Not good. The problem here is that you probably have many internet aggregation sites, making a few dollars a day on each one, not just Datsun Z cars. It's one of today's industries. So you may or may not be a true enthusiast. That's where the Bourbon Street comparison comes from, I think. Nobody knows you and you just have a bunch of copied information on a web site. And the one guy that's interacted with the site came away annoyed. So, as a businessperson you need to work on customer interaction quality. It appears to be lacking. Why would anyone call a stranger to chat about Z cars? Make the web site easy to use and clear about what comes from it. What can the customer expect? If you're truly a Z car enthusiast, offer some knowledge in a few of the active threads. Tell us about your other aggregation sites before we find out. Tell us about things like your Twitter account. Put all of your web site addresses on your Twitter account. So we know everything. The internet is full of cons and you're just a new unknown face. You have to prove yourself. If you don't know squat about Z cars, or Datsuns, just say so. https://twitter.com/totalautonet The site looks like it might be interesting to certain people. Not much use though if you're not close to CA, FL, GA, or TX.

Got any old aluminum castings? Crack some and experiment. I still think a Loctite compound might work easily.. I didn't look through all of their products but wouldn't be surprised if there was a "crack fixer" compound in the list. I Googled Loctite metal crack repair and http://www.loctite.com.au/metal-filled-compound-4081.htm

The spindle pin has to rotate so that the slot surface is parallel with the flat on the bolt. If it's a tight spindle pin you night have to help it. Rotate the pin back and forth while tapping the lock bolt. Nissan instructions assume that everything is shiny and new.

To be clear, you're not the owner of THIS site (the ClassicZcars site), you're the owner of this site - http://240zforsale.com/about-us/ the topic of the thread. I did a double-take when I saw your first sentence. Thought maybe we'd finally worn Mike out. Somebody already called you, in Post #4 and #6, and wasn't very pleased. Why don't you address those posts directly? He is a very trusted member here. You won't go far until you do. Good luck.