Zed Head

Got a new experiment going. A special Chrome session, using a normal window. Load up all those ads and cookies and stuff and see how things go. So far, I've been out and back in and it's pretty speedy. I'll have to go try an Incognito window to do a full compare, over multiple sessions (ever wonder why they call them sessions?)

You've made some progress. Might have lost your train of logic though. Did you plug the sender back in while the engine was running? Or with the the engine off, then it wouldn't restart? And "the whole process" covers too much stuff. You don't need to do the Start tests becuase you already know that the pump runs and it will start, Seems like your pump control relay might have problems. It might be slow to react or defective. There are two circuits to activate the pump relay, one from the oil pressure switch and the other from the alternator power. Either will keep the pump running. If your oil pressure builds slowly and the alternator function isn't working, for example, you could have a problem like you have.

My mistake, I read "both pieces" as both ears, not the shifter and the ears. I just read the two followups and see my error. I don't have the patience to read properly anymore after waiting for the Google ads to load up. If that's what's really happening. I don't think that there's enough meat there to drill the shift lever, and maintain enough strength to last, though. Better have a spare lever handy.

You don't see how the top of the lever will move the same distance no matter where you put those holes? You'll be moving the lever and the fulcrum. You need to move the fulcrum relative to the lever. Not relative to the object being moved. The point of the short shifter is to move the internal mechanism the required distance (the required distance stays the same) with less movement at the top of the lever. If you don't change the ratio of the top of the lever to the bottom of the lever (moving the fulcrum) then by definition, it won't work. It won't have any effect.

The fulcrum is the pin in the hole in the lever. If you just move the holes you're moving both the fulcrum and the lever. No effect, except pressing on a different part of the same object.

Most tow companies have roll trucks, dollies, and all the gear they need to move that car without damaging it Probably cost less than $100. And you can rent a 15' U-Haul truck for about $60 to move the rest. Sometimes, time and convenience is worth the spending, even if it's only moving a few feet. With the truck blocking the garage entrance you can keep the riff-raff out too.

Weird that you see the pressure drop while it's running but you said that the pump runs when the key is "On". The key should be On after it starts. Did you mean "Start"? There's no reason to remove the starter solenoid wire if you're turning the key to "On". The 78 cars are known for a flaw n the system. If you remove the oil pump sender wire, the fuel pump will run with the key at "On". If it does stay running when you do that then you can focus on the pump control relay and sender switch. The sender has two prongs, one is for pressure, the other is a switch. SteveJ replied while I was writing, hitting the button now......

You have to change the hole in the lever, not the ears, to change the ratio of travel between the top of the lever and the bottom of the lever.. Travel of the bottom of the lever will be the same, it will just be higher up, if you only drill the transmission ears. The bushing at the bottom of the lever slides up and down in a cylinder as the lever tip moves back and forth. Another way to get a shorter stroke is to cut the top of the lever down. You can simulate that by holding the lever lower when you shift, if you want to gauge the increase in force needed. The downside of the short-stroke.

If you're only moving it next door, a couple of cheap Harbor Freight dollies under the rear wheels might work. The BR chapter of the FSM shows how the brakes work (see link below). You can see the mechanism behind the rear wheel. if you crawl under the car It's usually the rear brakes, not the front. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Ironic that the very thing Google wants to jam through my eyes in to my brain is the one thing keeping me away.. The internet is a strange thing.

Testing with pressure up to the cap limit plus a couple sounds like the way to go. If you wanted to get even more real-world you could dunk in a bucket of hot water, since a crack might open up when heated. Or you could just fill it with epoxy since you don't need heat. Or plug the inlet and outlet.

I haven't tried it yet. I'm not really a big texter but sometimes I get in to the middle of a big textorama and have to try to keep up.

I don't have any blockers or anything else added on. No extensions or plug-ins. It shows now. It was probably related to the other problem that I still have, just very slow loading classiczcars.com. The site just timed out on trying to load the image. The only thing that might be different is that my browsing history and cookies get deleted whenever I close my browser. I'd say that's probably the source of my problem. classiczcars.com loads either bunch of cookies, or it loads some that my system doesn't like, or it's loading something else. It seems to me, that with such a narrowly focused viewer base that you could forget about Google ad-sense, and the tracking cookies, and the spyware, and just choose your own ads. Solely focused on cars, and tools. It's the constant tracking and spying and following that slows down all of the internet sites. And for not much gain. Think about how much simpler things would be. And how much more comfortable we'd be, not seeing ads supposedly related to something we viewed on a completely different web site. Or that someone else here viewed on a different web site. K.I.S.S.

I get the the white space in site's pictures even when clicked on, and there's a broken link in Mike's.

You'll stir up the debris that would normally just sit on the bottom of the case, and disperse it through the various bearing surfaces. Flushing the transmission is not specified by any manufacturers as a maintenance procedure.

I had the same problem a couple days ago and it turned out they were actually loading completely. They were either displaying before they were done loading or they were not displaying correctly the first time.

Here it is

Someone had a similar problem recently and it was a giant vacuum leak. I'd find the thread and post a link but I can barely do anything on the site recently, it's very slow. Good luck.

Deleted. A waste of time, and just locks in the bad stuff.

The factory cap is not a vent. It lets air in, not out. That's another reason that zKars' suggestion is probably on target. Your new cap is the wrong solution to your other problem. Besides air coming out around the filler entrance, air also escapes through the vent hose up to the charcoal canister in the engine bay. Sounds like your venting system is screwed up.

You have the unleaded style, with a little flap that the gas nozzle pushes open. But air should vent out above the gas nozzle as fuel enters. Poke the little flap open with a screwdriver and take a look. The sun is at a good angle in your picture. Take a closeup with the little flap open if you can, might be easier to blow up a picture to see something.

You have to attach them or provide a youtube link.

There are two transmissions in the CL ad, a 4 speed and a 5 speed. Can't believe how prices are rising. I'll have a gold mine in my garage pretty soon. Hoarding might pay off.

Venting problems do sound likely if you have the unleaded "shutter". But even most shutters have vent holes built in to them. Somebody with a 77 or 78 filler style would know better. On my 76 you can look directly down and see your reflection in a pool of gasoline in the tank.