Zed Head

Once you close your mind to the possibility that some of the people you're seeing might be different, better, then you end up treating the ones you want like the ones you don't want. It's a vicious cycle. Polarization. You, for example, could be classified as ex-military with certain views living in a certain state in the southeast. Therefore, based on your logic, you're just like the guys we're seeing videos of now, storming the Capitol. Because people with your same profile were there, a known fact. Some arrested. Who knows, maybe you were there. Based on the facts, and your proposed logic, it fits. Per your own method. On the other hand, many of us probably know cops and ex-military and people from certain areas of the country, that would never have participated in that. Even though they fit the physical profile. So, in the end, profiling doesn't do anything but give a person a false sense of security, of thinking that they know something that they don't. Better to put the effort in to learning about each person or group of people you're dealing with, than making an assumption that has high odds of being wrong.

I browse the Ford F150 forums and see misfire topics all the time. Often it's not the coil but something else like injectors. The common test is to swap coils with another cylinder and see if the problems follows the coil. I don't think that you can generalize "people" to regions, or any other characteristic. Bad people are everywhere, sometimes you just don't see them. Or you might just be hanging out in certain areas, like airports or hotels, and mischaracterizing a whole part of the world based on a small sample. Generalizing generally doesn't work, you can't classify humans like that, by where they live or what they look like. Everyone is different.

The Z's are back, the Z's are back! 73 with some modifications. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-149/

You could create a new account in order to contact someone. They can delete it afterward.

He said the new rings, unmodified, have a gap that is too big. Honing won't make the bore smaller, and you can't file a ring end to make it smaller. Cut it twice and it's still too small applies here also. I wonder if the pistons aren't already one size over. There are no piston measurements here. You kind of just need to get all of the measurements and figure out the best combination. For just a few thousand miles a year, you could probably just hone and put the big gap rings in and be fine.

The first thing that I'd do is to stop mixing your measurement systems together. Pick metric or pick standard but pick just one. What size are the pistons? Rings, pistons and cylinders all need to work together. I'd try one of the oversize rings, fit it, and see how it fits the bore. If your bore is ovalized (you never answered that question) then it's probably equally bad to use an oversize ring gapped down as a "proper" ring with a big gap. They're both round rings in oval bores. Most of the blowby will come from the poor seal in general, not the larger gap. You might just fit one oversize ring, stick it in the bore and shine a bright light around the edges. If it's a poor fit you'll see light shining through.

What do you mean by "out of tolerance"? End gap? And do you really mean .003 millimeters? That is a tenth of a thousandth of an inch. .0001 inches. Is the bore oval'ed? That's the other measurement you want to take. If you're only planning a few thousand miles on it you might be best to buy rings that will seat quickly. Some ring materials would probably still be breaking in by the time you rebuild it again. And I think that there are tricks to get a quick break-in, at the expense of longevity. A rough hone finish, for example. Not an expert, others know more.

Say it ain't so Bruce! DieStupid. https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/bruce-willis-reportedly-asked-leave-232941113.html

The piston thing just came up recently.

$18,000 for the Roadster. Just discovered that you can't see some bids unless you sign up. Weird.

If your front end groans and moans when you go over speed bumps and driveway ramps it's the rear poly bushings working the back of the TC rod. Eventually it will break it off. Most people use rubber on the back. It doesn't really see much use when braking like the front one does.

I read the instructions as saying to fit the bushing to the bracket with that 1/16" gap BEFORE torqueing it down. In other words they only want the bushing to be compressed by 1/16". On your first caliper picture I'd say just be sure that the channel that leads from the bleed screw goes to the top of the bore. It looks like it might be a straight shot to the bottom f the bore in your picture. Some applications have the channel leading to the side of the bore and you have to remove one bolt and pivot the caliper to get the bubble at the channel to the bleed screw. Basically, you just have to think in terms of air bubbles.

Here are some instructions from companies that make plugs and wires. Might be something good in them. https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/wire-sets-installation https://www.championautoparts.com/Technical/Tech-Tips/How-to-Remove-and-Replace-Spark-Plug-Wires.html https://e3sparkplugs.com/blog/how-to-replace-your-spark-plug-wires/

Could you show a picture of the instructions? I tried to find them on their site but they don't have them. https://www.stsuspensions.com/productfinder?c_year=1973&c_make=67&c_model=2284-20&c_car=34251-81-108-4-14492&pgs=292&ag=stsuspensionsantiswaybarkit By the way, even though the bleed screw is pointing up I think that the entrance to the caliper bore is at the bottom, if if it's a straight drill hole. Probably have problems bleeding.

Back to the original post. Most caps are made of a thermoset plastic, which does not melt. That might just be degradation from some other cause. Does the engine run well? If so, why not just put the cover back over it and run it? Jacobs is an older company that made ignition systems. They made a CD system, like MSD's, and an induction system. They only seem to be selling in Australia now. http://www.jacobselectronics.com.au/ https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/whatever-happened-to-jacobs-electronics.1405746/ https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jac-372546

What are you using? Many of us are using high energy (voltage) ignition systems with stock distributor caps and no problems. So, probably not.

Thousands (millions maybe) of people have been fine with just jamming a new dry clean wire in to the hole. You just need to get things to the way they're supposed to work. Somebody mentioned arcing. Maybe your cap is not seating well on the rotor and you're getting an arc across that gap. I don't know how much excess heat that would produce, there are six arcs per revolution inside the cap anyway. Check the inside of the cap, the center, to see what's happening and the contact point on the rotor. Find the source of the heat. Create a path of good contacts from the coil to the rotor top and your situation should become normal.

The Z wave has passed, apparently. Here's another old Datsun though. 66 Roadster. The engine bay looks a lot like a Z's, with the dual carbs and intake and exhaust on the same side. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-datsun-1600-roadster-19/

No. And if it keeps getting hot the tape will get all melty and gooey. Big mess.

You might just have a dirty/poor connection and the resistance is causing heat. Maybe get a new center wire and a new cap and make sure that the wire is pressed al the way in. There really shouldn't be much heat generation there.

Or visions of leading her blind husband around. 😎 That's a spendy item but one medical visit probably breaks even, besides long-term risk. https://www.amazon.com/Optrel-Crystal-Auto-Darkening-Welding-1006-900/dp/B07LHDC74K

You're getting a lot of advice about the fine details to get that last 10-15% of power from an engine. It looks like you are starting with an L24 and have the option of buying another L26. Both factory stock engines, maybe?. It will help you to define what you want the engine to do when you're done. You can spend a lot of money on parts that won't help you reach your goals. Plus the money you can spend removing or modifying perfectly good parts to install the unnecessary parts might be wasted. The parts all need to work together. Expensive pistons that never see more than 6000 RPM are probably a waste. High CR with poor fuel is a waste. A ported head with a poor exhaust system is a waste. You started your thread with machining a head, but machining a head should be in the middle of your list of things you need to do to reach your goals. You need a plan first. Plus you need to know the quality of the parts you're starting with. If the L26 has already been bored you won't be able to use your L24 pistons in it, for example. But you might be able to use the L26 crank in the L24 block. Example. Since you're limited in finding parts and spending money, many of the suggestions made won't be reasonable for you. I'd get the parts and see what's usable. You might find cracked heads, trashed cylinders, damaged valves, etc. Don't spend too much money until you know what you have in front of you.

I remember visiting a friend in high school with another buddy and messing around with her dad's arc welder. They were doing a down to the frame rebuild of a 63 Impala. He started trying to weld with the "close your eyes" method. I left before he did and didn't see him in school for two days. He was blind from burned retinas. It cleared up but I'm sure it was a scary time.

It's difficult. Get some picks, a small screwdriver, a little piece of wire. I think that anyone who has done a few has developed their own special method. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=Pick And Hook

Did you ever measure cylinder pressure? Compression ratio is a really simple number, just )combustion chamber plus swept volume)/(combustion chamber). It doesn't tell you what the cylinder pressures are, which is what causes detonation. Pressure. Funny, but I went out to be sure I had my definition of CR correct and found some sources that define it incorrectly. People forget the combustion chamber volume in some of them. Anyway, pressure is the key, calculating CR is just a starting point. https://www.britannica.com/technology/compression-ratio