Zed Head

It's always been a dimmer switch to me. Nissan too... 1972... How do you do... My name is Sue...

Starting at what I've learned as "first principles" might help. Control of air volume is what determines engine speed, for the most part. That's where the word "throttle" came from, to describe the mechanism that controls engine speed. The SU's have a somewhat unique mechanism of controlling air flow via the piston, which s actuated by manifold pressure, as I understand things. Opening the butterflies starts the process but you can open the butterflies and the piston might not move, blocking air flow. Short - maybe the carb pistons are stuck.

The ground path is in the dimmer switch at the base of the turn signal stalk. You can take it apart or just spray cleaner in to the internals. Pretty common for the lights to not work at all because the dimmer switch is gummed up. There are ground wire connections from the dimmer switch that can be pulled apart and cleaned.

Distributor maintenance is described in the Engine Electrical chapter of the FSM. Another possible reason for the back/front fire is a stuck valve. Not uncommon in engines that have sat for a long time. You might remove the valve cover and check things out. Ford F150s from the 90's used a pump that will work. BMW's also. If you want a cheap pump. Many cars have fine fuel systems and end up in the wrecking yard for crash reasons.

Power tends to corrupt. Even unions have managers. Ironic. They do the negotiating. Things tend to be cyclic. Detroit will probably come back as the new Miami Beach after global warming. Alabama will be Mexico though so they'll still be running strong in manufacturing. Random thoughts on a slow night...

I took some German (Deutsch) lessons once. Zwei bier, bitte! Schnell!

The pictures say loaded with body filler don't they? And the small number of pictures and no details say "call me so I can smooth-talk you". Run away...

I think that he meant with the Ignitor, not the 123. Hence did.

Hey, just to be clear on this, I think that most people use the Ignitor I, not the II. The II is better than the I, with "adaptive dwell" or current-limiting, but for quite a while Pertronix was unclear on which cars it would fit. The ZX distributor has current limiting also. So, tach problems might be similar to ZX distributor swaps. Some have them some don't. It's probably a gamble. There are adapters out there that seem to work for people though, if you do have problems. Still though...Pertronix quality is not what it was. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-91761/overview/make/nissan http://pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/91761.pdf

Don't forget that output also diminishes with age. New headlights can make a big difference. Seems like a person could run jumpers to the headlights for a quick test of what to expect from a set of relays. If they're on the fence about them. Of course, the other advantage of the relays is that it takes the load off of the switch on the steering column. Which gets pitted and heats up and tends to fail.

You can pull the cap, with the timing mark on ~10 degrees on the #1 firing stroke, and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire. While you're waiting for water pumps and stuff you might just run through your ignition system. It's pretty simple. Check for power at the coil with the key on, check the air gap of the reluctor/pickup coil with feeler gauges, check resistance of the pickup coil, make sure that the #1 pin of the ECU connector is connected the wire at the coil's negative terminal, and more. All of the simple things that people end up finding out was the cause of their no-start problem. When you do get it back together if you use starter fluid squirt it in to any port on the intake manifold. Just to be sure it's getting where it needs to be. Your intake system was probably sucking so much air through the holes in your AFM hoses that the fluid never got to the manifold. There is a simple set of resistance readings that you can do on the AFM's to see if they're in spec. I've had out of spec AFM's work fine though, so don't toss them if they're off a little bit. You can run 12 volts through your pump but don't do it for too long. The electric motor inside is actually normally submerged in gasoline that keeps it cool. And the roller bearings probably get lubrication from the gas also. I'd only give it a few whirs then stop.

For the prices you're looking at it might be most effective to just put the two new seals in, install it, use Redline MT90, and see how it works. I think that you can replace the countershaft bearing pretty easily if you wanted to do one bearing also. It's the noisy one. Once it's in if you'll get a better idea of how much it needs. Odds are, if a synchro is bad, it will be just the 3rd gear synchro. The others will probably be fine, and probably better quality, worn, than new aftermarket synchros. Edit - I'm a slow typer...

They weren't even supposed to be in the playoff. Trump must have had a hand in it.... Still...enjoy. I though Saban was coaching LSU anyway... zing

I just see NASCAR junk at 10:00. Says "live". Not sure how that works. Edit: maybe you meant 9 hours. Watching now... Yes, 9 hours, 57 minutes. Edit 3 - that video is addictive... can't believe what some of those old beaters are selling for. People paying for their high school memories...

Seems like the right auction. Many interesting cars there. I'll bet the weather made a mess of things though. Hope you got a good price..

You should have told us so we could pick it apart while the auction happened. This is the one? https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0118-311093/1971-datsun-240z/

Must be a 72 thing -

It might have been leaking for quite while, a drip at a time, until it finally got empty enough to stop working. The cylinder with the reservoir is the master cylinder. The slave cylinder is on the passenger side of the transmission. The dust boot on the slave cylinder can hold a lot of fluid, and any leaks would show up more in the area under the starter. If you slide the dust boot off of the slave cylinder a bunch of fluid might squirt/leak out. There's no clamps it's just a flexible seal that you can peel off by hand. I had a bad slave cylinder on my 280Z and the boot was full but there was no large leak. There's a rubber boot on the master cylinder too. It protrudes in to the cabin, you can see it from inside. So, like SteveJ says, the fluid can end up inside. And, the reservoirs can get loose and leak. Or crack. The fluid will drop down in to that dirty dusty area under the cylinder in the engine bay.

The Courtesy site says that factory rubber is still available. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-insulator-rack-54444n3401 https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-insulator-rack-54445n3401

That's a "pass". Open circuit (infinite resistance) to ground, on all three. I'm guessing that your ECU connector test is going to be a "pass" also. The clamp on the return line might not work if the pump is struggling. The gauge will tell. Everything about the EFI electronics revolves around a controlled and predetermined fuel pressure. The ECU programming is based on it.

I didn't really see a problem with adding strips of rubber to a loose bushing. In use, because it's so thick, the precision of the fit is almost irrelevant. If you put a camera on it you'd probably see it squishing and deforming pretty dramatically. The fit is more for recentering everything, after the squishing during cornering, I think.

I was going to say the same. I'll add that my MSA kit came with Ground Control bushings, apparently. There were instructions from them for one of them. They're black. I could not get the gap to close completely even with grease, but the clamps were fully tightened. I left it that way, figuring that the movement from usage would level things out pretty quickly, with the lubrication, and it did. 1976 280Z

To be sure, can you describe how you did the test or show a picture? With the TVS off of the engine you'd have to connect one of your leads to the mounting plate, since that would be the path to ground. With everything installed you can run that test at the ECU connector by placing the negative lead on a good ground point then testing each of the three pins. And, to be very sure, you want no reading on your meter, like it's waiting for you to do something, or a very very high one, in ohms. If you had a test light it wouldn't light, or a test beeper it wouldn't beep.

Hard to say. It just means that one of the contacts is shorted to ground. It might just be a trail of dirt or a bent contact. You could probably take the cover off and clean it up and get it back in order. There's not much to them.

If the ECU doesn't see it it doesn't count. Trace the wires from the ECU to the TVS, it's easier than it seems. Most of the engine's electronic components are on sub-harnesses with bullet connectors tying in to the main harness to the ECU. Maybe yours are disconnected. "Full throttle" is actually about 75% throttle opening or something like that so it could be a factor. The ECU adds a lot of extra fuel at "full" throttle. " " " " " The ECU plug has its own grounds. The FSM tests are explicit, nothing needs to be added. Place the probes and read the meter.