Zed Head

The path to misery. People get this wrong all the time. 43 and 35 years for somebody to have installed aftermarket, different, parts. Good luck.

Spray more fluid. Start if a few more times. Get some fuel flowing.

therz picters in the fsm. Seriously, they have really good pictures, with labels and stuff. Some of the ZX transmissions had a lot of switches. Hope you measured your throwout bearing collar and pressure plate height.

Oops. Never mind. Timing...

It might have just been leaking through the pump, backward. There's supposed to be a check valve that would not allow that, but, as I said, I always confirm. If you posted a picture or told what kind of pump it was we could give more suggestions.

You didn't say that you ran the pump and saw fuel coming out of it. I always go for full confirmation, avoid assumptions. There's not much to the damper. People do run without it. But if you're pump is wired backward it won't matter. Either way, you can remove or bypass the damper just for a test of the lines.

How do you know it's getting to the damper? Or through the pump? The simple test for blocked lines would be to disconnect them and blow through them. There are no check valves to worry about. Disconnect at the fuel filter then disconnect at the pump. If it's not blocked gravity will drain the line so have a container handy. Might be as simple as having the pump wired backward.

Your 4 speed had a 3.321 first gear - 3.321 x 3.54 = 11.75 Your 5 speed has a 3.062 first gear - 3.062 x 3.54 = 10.83 Swap your rear diff to a 3.9 and you'll be back to where you were on the low end - 3.062 x 3.9 = 11.94. A little quicker actually, with lower gears all the way to 4th, which is 1:1 for both. And you'll still have lower RPM at freeway speed. (4th) 1 x 3.54 = 3.54 (5th) .754 x 3.9 = 2.94

Funny that the guy thinks Craigslist is an auction site. $50,000 starting "bid". Does the BRE have significance?

He means that your gauges are on a separate wiring harness than the engine control system harness. That's the key to what you're talking about doing - the harness for the engine and its computer is separate from the body harness that controls your gauges. You might have to swap oil pressure senders or bring over more 1981 parts than just engine control. There's also fuel pump control to worry about. It's not plug and play, it's complicated. Get the wiring diagram from the Factory Service Manual and study it. It shows all of the connectors.

His other parts say that he has a 1970 240Z. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-Mechanical-Fuel-Pump-Kyosandenki-OEM-Nice/123098054441?hash=item1ca9373f29:g:g7cAAOSw7UJa33~u https://www.ebay.com/sch/240zlover777/m.html?item=123097957996&ul_noapp=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Edit - my mistake. He says 2 in the description. $300 / cap. (So how many is he selling? Doesn't say. ) Two of the pictures look almost exactly the same, like he moved it one inch for the next shot. Three shade pictures and one in the sun. Hiding the backs now. Still 100% positive feedback. $600 and he won't even pay for shipping. Anybody positive who this guy is yet?

I would put a list together. You might be right about $1000, after you add up the nickels and dimes. Master cylinder, slave cylinder, slave cylinder hose, flywheel, clutch kit, throwout bearing collar, shifter, shifter boot, pilot bushing, new seals for the transmission. New rear main seal for the engine, while you're there. My method is to put a list of parts together, then go through the whole process, on paper and in my head. Lifting the car, removing bolts, all of that. You'll spend less time stuck, waiting for the stores to open.

Here is a link I just posted on Hybridz for somebody doing the same thing. Do you have the pedal box? Not sure that swapping just pedals will work. The easiest thing to do might be to find an old junked 4 speed 240Z and buy the whole car, then find an old junked 5 speed 280ZX and buy the whole car. Kind of kidding, but that's how I bought my first 5 speed transmission, except it was from an old 5 speed 280Z. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/brake/brake-clutch-pedal

So, basically, part of the hardness issue is about how hard you have to press the pedal to get the car to stop. You're saying that the brakes don't work better, they work worse. It sounds like the booster works correctly. It's hard to tell how far the pedal is moving when you're pumping the system up, and how many times you pump. That would be a clue about whether it's air in the system or something else. Pumping the brakes is just a way to compress air bubbles. The fluid doesn't get pushed back out of the caliper faster than your foot can push more fluid in to it. So, if th pedal moves a long distance and it takes a few mups, that's a big air bubble. On the other hand, if the fronts don't feel like they're working after being pumped up, then you might have a pad and/or rotor problem. Any chance there's something slippery on them? Once the system gets pumped up and the air bubbles are compressed then it should behave like it will normally. If the pad friction on the rotors is sufficient you'll get braking force. Hope that helps. You need to separate the system in to its parts and think about each. Here's a clue about big bubbles in the calipers - the brake check light should come on if your switch is installed and working. Mine did when I had my stock calipers installed upside down. It was a clue that made more sense when somebody noticed a very large quantity of fluid leaving the reservoir and coming back as I worked the brakes..

Are you converting from automatic? Just confirming. There is a whole bunch more you should know, depending on what you're planning. Those 4 speeds are a dime a dozen. Almost can't give them away, believe it or not. Looks like someone has tried to get in to yours.

and..... "The pedal is hard with very little braking force." and.... "help me test which wheels are locking etc" I pulled out the information as I found it. It seems like you're saying that you only swapped front calipers and rotors and left everything else exactly the same. Is that right? You described a lot of stuff that you did before, but the brakes apparently worked fine with those things done. So they kind of don't matter. What would the "stock system" be? More than just rotors and calipers? You said hard pedal, and pedal is hard with little braking force. But then you talked about locking wheels. That would be very much braking force. And you mention pumping up the brakes before you start the car, but not while the engine is running. Do the brakes pump up with the engine running? The pedal gets higher and harder with pumping? That's a sign of air in the system. You didn't say which end of the hose you removed, and how you know it was holding vacuum. Sorry to pick apart your writing. Can't tell what you're trying to describe though. It's not clear if the brakes even work at all, in slowing the car. It kind of sounds like the caliper pistons are locked up in their bores. No fluid is flowing, so the pedal does not drop. But it can flow when the bleed valves are open. Fluid does flow when bleeding the calipers right? The bleeding is a test of the hydraulic system. You could remove the calipers and have somebody gently press the brake pedal to see if the calipers move. Put a thin board between to be safe, thinner than the rotors.

I've found that an old used Nissan original alternator puts out more idle amps than a "new" reman parts store alternator. I have an old 81 ZX alt on my car and a new reman on the shelf.

Sounds like the wire that you chose is not the actual L wire. If I read the diagram right, the two wires I marked in red are the ones you want to jump, which looks like what atlanticz says. Seems like you were there but undid it. 2-5 looks like the circuit is always powered. Might drain your battery through the alternator windings.

That's the model with the crank triggered CAS. Maybe. Sometimes the yards go off of build date. It might be an 82. Some parts might have value if you're in to picking. The J tube, the exhaust manifold, maybe the turbo. The CAS if it's not the crank trigger. Stuff that can be put on to any L6. Then Megasquirt it.

So, pretty much everything that could go wrong, went wrong. Weird! Did ZCD pay for shipping on the exchange?

People often run in to problems when they start deleting stuff the factory installed. Even the emissions lines have the benefit of containing the smell of gasoline. I'd try to get them all back to where they were, unless it's a race car.

There must be a sketch somewhere of the new tank design. People don't just start cutting and welding without at least a simple sketch. Do they?

Do you know that your engine builder didn't give you a distributor tuned for the engine? You never answered the "what distributor" question. That coil does not look stock 1973, you might look under the distributor cap to see what's there. You'll need to learn all about tuning engines with the XDi200. Could be fun. Get some good air filters on that new high-performance engine. You don't want to suck dust and debris in to grind away at the shiny new surfaces.

So you have a 1973 points distributor and "6 volt" coil? There are many many electronic ignition system options. The XDi 200 looks nice but it's a little bit over the top for just fixing the idle quality. https://electromotive.com/our-products/xdi200-ignition/