Zed Head

The bearing seat gets gouged when the races get cocked. You can't beat a gouge in to submission. They just get stronger.

Doesn't the gear center on the carrier? "Hub centric", precisely machined. The bolts just stop the gear from spinning, that's why people use bushings to sleeve the small bolts in the big holes. Pretty common. And it's the torque force of the bolts pressing the gear face to the carrier that stops the spinning, in principle, by friction or locking "asperities", so the bolts aren't really supposed to see anything but tensile force. Some manufacturers actually use "thread" locker at the surfaces, between the gear and carrier, as a kind of glue. Interesting problem. Forces you to really think about how bolts and threads work, and the parts they're used on. What transmission used would be the key for ratios, I think. You might check your clutch plates while it's apart. I have a Ford LSD in my truck and they're known for wearing out the plates and going "open".

One other way to get screwed up, if you do the above, is to find that the 88 CLSD is actually a VLSD. 88 was an odd year and had both apparently. I can't tell from your pictures what you have. They use different axles. I've heard about the bolt size problem. If it was other way around you could use bushings. In your case, you could use thread inserts. It would be quite a test for them, but, in principle, they should work. If you can hit the torque number, they should be fine. Aesthetically displeasing of course.

Somewhere in Abate's content he has gone through all of the same problems you're having, and done all of the things that you're doing. It's an old story. CO eventually helped get it straightened out but I can't find the specific thread posts. The bearing races were getting cocked during insertion. Not obvious, ironically. @Captain Obvious Old news, it's out there somewhere. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/30168-matthew-abate/?do=content&type=forums_topic&change_section=1

The HEI module works the same way that the Nissan module does/did. No reason for it to produce more EMI. Are you sure that the noise is RF noise from the ignition system? And are you sure it's from yours. You can get it from other engines in the vicinity. Could be a bad fan motor also. See if it's still there with the engine not running.

For that area, yes, I'd use Nissan's bushings if you can find them.

I think that you're probably right. If he had told the whole story from the beginning it might have been more clear. Polyurethane is over-applied for the Z's I think. The sellers are just replacing rubber willy-nilly, no deep thought about appropriate usage. More parts equals more money. It probably is falling apart because it has dried out and the lip is too think for the gap. I'd replace them with stock Nissan rubber.

That's interesting. I found it in the 1972 FSM but checked 1976 and it's gone, they changed the instructions completely.

I found one of the old threads/articles about that custom tool. Click the arrows to go back and forth, it's a pictorial. Search the name and you might find more. Somebody was loaning one out for a while.

He did. We did. We know what you're talking about. Those aren't supposed to be there. They are not bushings. They are rubber seals, to keep dirt and moisture out. Somebody added them to your car, they are not normal.

I think you might be better off to swap the carrier and LSD in to the 88 R200 housing, since the pinon gear depth is already set for the housing. JMortensen says he often gets away with no reshimming when he swaps carriers, if I recall his past posts right. Otherwise you have to get in to pinion bearing preload and crush bearings and all that, and might have to reset backlash, as I understand things. But that's really just more fun. Are you sure there's not a V8 hiding in your garage somewhere...

Resto mod. You'll need a custom "dog bone" cross piece to fit those fins. Plus the axles and other goodies. It's a project. What's the ratio?

I thought that he mixed his bar description with his bushing description. Either way, "yes, cutting the flange off and pressing the bushing out is how the the two flange style bushings are changed" is the answer, I think.

I think that he's referring to post #42 which shows a design that only has one flange, or folded over edge. They probably worked their way out of the bar so Nissan added a post insertion flange later.

Seems like #69 would be the same part. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension

Somebody just asked about this, calling them "rubbers". I thought he meant bushings but apparently he meant the seals. Might be that Jalex doesn't really need the bushings. Actually, Patcon, you were there in that thread. I've not seen those inner "rubbers" but who knows.

I used shrink tubing with adhesive for some over the engine wires and the hot melt melted out of the tubes and dripped on to the heat shield under the intake manifold. Maybe do some testing before going crazy. Choose the usage environment carefully. Does look interesting.

You can tell by the shape of the rear cover, and the bolts on the side flange that holds the axle bearings in. R200's have the same gear ratios. You need to know what the ratio of your R180 is. The ratio is how many times the propeller shaft turns for how many times the wheels turn. A 3.9 ratio will turn the propeller shaft 3.9 times for one rotation of both wheels. Mark the tires and the propeller shaft and turn the propeller shaft. Make sure that both wheels turn. Cont how many times the propeller shaft runs to get one full rotation. Or you can remove the rear cover and the ratio will be marked on the ring gear.

That is an R180.

That is good to know. $50 for a new ignition module is a great price. The two pickup model (seven external terminals) is more expensive though. One for $100, one for $140. https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=spark-surplus&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=280z+module&_sacat=0

Looks like a 2 man bidding war. The guy was talking about a reserve when it was at $2000. So his reserve was above that number. Local availability, no shipping costs, and rust-free might be the key. 20 hours will tell. https://www.ebay.com/bfl/viewbids/163174309767?item=163174309767&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2565

That's the California model, for single pickup distributors. It might work but you'll lose one pickup. But I've never heard of IGM-4. It might not be a Nissan part. Looks like a risky bet. Their eBay store sells a lot of parts though and their ratings aren't too bad. https://www.ebay.com/usr/spark-surplus https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OUT-OF-BOX-OEM-For-1975-76-Datsun-280z-Electronic-Ignition-Module-IGM-04-/182015405068?oid=182824115436

In Oregon it's so dry and hot that the wheat fields are burning. The whole west side of the country is in bad shape. https://www.oregonlive.com/expo/news/erry-2018/08/6b8fa147951565/major-wildfires-in-oregon-blaz.html

What do you mean by "electronic parts"? The ignition system? And do you mean the stalling issue or the power drain issue? Sorry, you kind of ran a bunch of things together. What is the current status of the car? Does it run and drive? Maybe restate the problem as it is today.