Zed Head

Which problem? There was a rich problem, and an idle speed control problem. I tried to find some AAR pictures but couldn't. CO had some good ones I think but they got Photobucketed. The AAR should be at least halfway open if I recall right. More than slightly. Like a solid quarter moon's width. Always best to give numbers also. "ok" can mean so many things. Take your measurements at the ECU connector too. That tests the whole circuit.

The front valance is pretty low and often gets damaged. Don't let the guy with the winch just crawl under and hook up to the crossmember without being sure the valance won't get dented by the cable when he pulls. In the back the gas tank can be in the way if hooks to the diff. The hooks and loops left on the car from shipping aren't tow hooks. Don't let him use those to pull on. Wheel straps to hold the car in place are probably the best way to secure the car in the trailer. There's not much to grab on to underneath, no frame to hook on to. If the company regularly ships old cars they should know. If not, they could do some damage. Breaking the drums loose can be almost impossible in some cases. Don't assume that it can be done in the time that you have. There's probably mice living in it. Watch out for hantavirus.

I bought my car about eight years ago and I remember the name of the guy that sold it to me. No damage has been done and the situation is much more clear now. The odds have been tilted in the OP's favor by my questions and his answers. I did bring up VIN altering. Because it does happen. I did make a mistake though, the guy I was thinking of is, apparently, from Nevada, not Oregon. Here's some interesting reading about how other people think and how you can end up with a car that's not what you think it is. These things do happen. Started at page 4 where the heat is but the whole thread is worth reading.

And, just to reiterate, and I really think it would help your cause - what is the seller's name? If he or she was a "Z person" six years ago somebody out here might know them. And another clarification - did a Canada title come with the car when you bought the car? Or did you get no title and have to file paperwork to get a Canada title? Here are the essential elements of your effort - 240Z is, maybe, in Oregon...240Z ends up in British Columbia somehow. Unclear if it had a Canada title...240Z is sold to new owner with little to no documentation...Canada title is obtained. Sorry. I browse around the internet more for the words and information. It's good mental exercise.

These are really strange times. I think that there is so much information out there that people don't really read any more. I think that we all just scan and pick up a few words and respond to those. I said that you did not appear to have proper paperwork. I did not say that you were messing with the VIN. As I also explained to 240dkw. And that, therefore, it might not even be a properly titled car. Because you did not supply all of the facts above in your first post. That's all there is to it. You told a little story and left a whole bunch of information out. The car has all of the ID tags removed in your picture. You said you might have trouble selling it to a US buyer. You didn't mention that you had proper title. You said that you had no documentation to back up what the seller told you. It looked like somebody who bought a car with no title. That's what the words on the page showed, to me. Good luck.

It's from the 1970 Nissan FSM that we have here on CZCC. The General Information chapter. Uploaded by CanTechZ. Appropriate. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

Dang. I'm slow. Seems to have potential. That layer of dust probably shielded the interior and paint from UV rays.

I didn't say that the OP messed with the VIN. I just developed his stated concerns a little further. The "whole title thing" is his. Apparently he doesn't have any transaction paper work. I don't know how Canada does things but he might not even have proof that the car is his. So he can't sell to a US buyer.

We had a whole long discussion about "reVINing" cars and what makes a car, and what makes a VIN. Coincidentally one of the members is from Oregon and feels fine with moving VIN tags over to different bodies. Does the car have 957 stamped in to the firewall, like it should? Looks like all of the ID plates have been removed. Not implying anything nefarious on your part. Just that maybe there are problems with the title or will be in the future. It kind of looks like you're seeking information to help you get a proper title.

Canada customs and the seller's name? Not sure why you're not giving more info. Is it one of those sketchy "lost title" cars? The Oregon guy drove it in to Canada and left it maybe? No offense intended but the story has holes. Good luck.

Even if it's staked on the outside it might have the internal grooves for clips. Like Rockford says.

Doesn't look like factory Nissan parts. Some shops will service the staked u-joints and use their own retention system. You've got a weird one there. Here's a picture I found of a staked joint. http://www.motormasterpowersports.com/atv-utv-line/rdl-staked-in-u-joints

Can you dig out 1 through 12, the originals with the pits? Looks like you stamped them. Just curious.

Also wondering about "self-locking" retaining rings. Doesn't 1975 use staked u-joints on the prop shaft? Non-serviceable. Are you breaking the rules?

I've had to use heat to get the yoke to expand enough to release the cap. People bend them often, I've read. I took my old 240Z shaft apart just to check it and regretted even starting it. Heat, a strong vise and lots of worrying. Nissan says that they should drop out with light tapping, after popping the snap ring off with a screw driver.

Here's the ID number info. I've never seen a "U" but Nissan says that signifies US or Canada. Don't know.

Don't you have to go through customs to get a car in to Canada from the States? Might be a clue. Any paperwork that you used to buy the car would be clues also. Didn't you get a title? What did you use to transfer title to your name? Any reason not to share the PO's name? Not much to work with besides the 957.

It's a "small bumper" car so more desirable. Too bad the back bumper has been replaced with wood. It's been bumped from behind. Is that old growth fir? Super easy to get running. Any L series engine and transmission should drop right in. Look around for the drive (propeller) shaft. Besides the engine, probably the only other drive train part of significant value. The radiator might be good to have also. Is pre-75 still emissions free in California? That's a bonus. But CA also has those "non-op" back fees. Are there fees to be paid before title transfer? I don't know the ID number system well but the FSM implies that it's not a US or Canada car. No "U". Don't know if the FSM is right or not. Which side is the steering wheel on?

Details needed. Start, no dice, not clear. Good luck. Here's the history -

The rust on the tip of the shaft doesn't look terrible. You can still see the smoothness underneath. Haven't seen anyone recommend removing the front cover. They're usually very stuck but it would make cleaning the splines much easier. Plus you can inspect the front two bearings and replace the seal.

Here's a trick that's in my brain, I don't know where it came from. Take a fan belt and place it around the damper pulley alone. Grip both sides of the belt in one hand, tightening it in the pulley groove. Use it as a handle to turn the crankshaft. You could also use one of those filter wrenches that uses a rubber belt to wrap around the object to be turned. Apparently called a "strap wrench". I've found that the damper bolt can be hard to reach sometimes.

The one that "looked good" looked more right. Did you rotate the distributor within its adjustment range, the slot on the lockdown screw, to see if the rotor points at 1? And don't overlook that it's the front of the rotor electrode that sparks not the middle. Imagine rotation in action. You'll find out when you set ignition timing. Might be fine, there is another adjustment on the distributor itself.

That's what I might do. I re-read my own comments above and couldn't figure out they'd guarantee distributor orientation. Sorry about that. Captain Obvious described using vise grips to hold the distributor shaft up then installing the oil pump. Seemed to work. Multiple paths to the same result.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=60014&cc=1209260&jsn=363

It's out there, hard to find. Rockauto has the specs I think. Your old pump is broken. It's not meeting its specifications. A new pump very likely will. Just trying to help. Go ahead and get one of those high volume pumps. You'll know when it's spinning, for sure.