Everything posted by Zed Head
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L28 from 82 ZX teardown
Nothing wrong with that. The notch and groove is what Nissan created so that you could evaluate chain wear.
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L28+(maxima)47 build
Somebody must have modified the Nissan rebuild then. Not arguing, just pointing out that the "M"N47 head is designed for the Maxima L24E engine, Nissan did not put them on L28's. . You have a rebuilt short block with a different head on it. Or, you actually have a Maxima L24E engine, not a 280ZX engine. Does it have L28 stamped by the 5 and 6 plugs, on the block. It would also be nice to start your own thread instead of filling up madkaw's build thread. Here's the thread where CO talks about CR's.
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Temp readings FYI
Are you sure that your heat gun isn't catching some of the head and it's cooling passages? The FPR would have a steady flow through it, it doesn't pulse like the thermostat does. The thermostat has a chunk of wax in it that melts and solidifies over and over. That's why it pulses. The FPR has a spring and a diaphragm that just move based on vacuum and fuel pump pressure. If you put a piece of cardboard behind the rail and measure again it might stop pulsing. If it does pulse it seems more like a fuel pump thing, with the flow rate changing. Maybe a voltage pulsing causing the fuel pump to pulse. Who knows it might actually go all the way back to your alternator/regulator. Maybe it's dying or engine RPM has it on edge.
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L28 from 82 ZX teardown
So the question might be are you rebuilding it for fun or to make it better? I'd at least check valve lash and the cam sprocket notch and groove, just to see what the wear is on the valve train. If it's freshly refreshed you'd be wasting money to mess with it. The cam lobes look new. It might end up in worse shape when you're done, no offense. Sorry to the guys looking for internet entertainment. I'm one of them...
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L28 from 82 ZX teardown
164k is not a ton of miles. Normally a person would measure pressure, do a leakdown test, look at oil consumption, check the cam sprocket notch and groove, etc, You're kind of jumping ahead Av.
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L28+(maxima)47 build
The P79 and P90 heads have the temperature sensor in the head also. What is cast in to the head up by the 1 and 2 spark plugs? It's probably a P79. Nissan would not put the L24 head on an L28. You can use the various calculators to estimate CR. Plus there's another thread by CO discussing the topic.
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L28 from 82 ZX teardown
Did the car have 164K or the engine. That emblem glued on to the engine is not a Nissan factory thing. It looks like it's a fairly fresh reman. You might find that everything is almost new. Might be ready to go as-is. Stop and think. Someone ot there has probably seen this before. @240260280z
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L28+(maxima)47 build
It's over 9 MB also. Pretty bulky.
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L28+(maxima)47 build
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Randomly lose power when driving
Didn't know that they had one. So, was it rust or dirt or what ? If the tank was cleaned the fuel should be clean. Do you have a locking gas cap?
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The stronger one, 4- or 5-speed?
1st gear is what you want to consider. A 3.9 with a super low 1st gear can make 1st gear almost useless. Plus the turbo engines tend to run "taller" gearing since they have more low end torque. Just be aware of the differences when you're looking.
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"Brand new" 280Z
I've mentioned this in other threads not sure I did here, But check those fuel injection hoses for cracks on the ends. They crack lengthwise and let fuel leak. I had raw fuel squirting all over my hot engine one day soon after I got my car. Luckily, no ignition occurred. Not real visible without a good eye and bright light. Age alone might make them weak, like tires. You might have to change those to modern hoses if you want to run the engine, even though the originals add to the time capsule feel.
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Randomly lose power when driving
Just curious, but what is a "fuel pump filter"? Not sure what you mean by that. Also, did you open the filter and find sediment? Or assume. Might be something else. Was the tank cleaned and sealed, or just cleaned? Anyway, carry on.
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"Brand new" 280Z
i was kidding. Never mind. Is that just shiny undercoating or oil in your previous pictures?
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"Brand new" 280Z
Blatant trolling.... http://www.brokenkitty.com/zcar/zcar.htm
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The stronger one, 4- or 5-speed?
Looks like you have many options. You could use a 4 speed while you search for a "wide gear" 71C 5 speed. Use your spare to do the bellhousing swap while the car has the 4 speed in it. If you got 8 years out of the old 71B, it might just be metal fatigue that broke 3rd gear. Forgot to say, consider gear ratios when you're looking for a solution. There is a wide range, some very low 1st gears and some not so low. Match what you have or plan a diff swap also.
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The stronger one, 4- or 5-speed?
I think that those are 71B transmissions. Your Europe market cars had 5 speed options throughout the years, we didn't here in the States. Looks like one has a steel front cover (older) and the other has aluminum, from the casting shapes. So you have several ways to get a 5 speed back together, but the wider/stronger gears only came in the later year 71C 5 speeds, somewhere around 1994 I think. Are there teeth actually stripped off 3rd gear from too much torque, or are they just damaged from grinding up bits of metal? The transmissions can fail in many different ways, one common way is for the adapter plate bearings to fail, letting the shafts move around. What else as on the drain plug magnet? Maybe you just have a worn out 5 speed, not an over-powered 5 speed. You might not need stronger gears.
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F4W71A disassembly, reassembly questions
Thread locker is reasonable. Blue should work. You could also cut a few slots in the edges of the washer and create your own locking tab. i'd do both. The problem with a second nut, a jam nut, is that it will need to be locked also. What if it comes loose and works its way off? You could try to find a big self-locking nut, Nylok-type, as the second nut. Probably expensive.
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L28+(maxima)47 build
What cylinder pressure do you get? CR is the calculation but cylinder pressure is the detonation cause. As I understand things high CR needs to be matched with "big" cams. I think that some people think of the whole package in terms of "dynamic" CR.
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The stronger one, 4- or 5-speed?
My mistake. I think that I actually understood what you were saying the first time I read it. Then misunderstood the second time. You might consider just getting another third gear and rebuilding what you have. Cheaper shipping and easier to find. Third gear from a 4 speed might work. Apparently the parts are pretty durable, they will suffer quite a bit of scrap metal floating around in there. You'll need to know exactly what type of 5 speed that you have though. In the States we didn't get 5 speeds until the 1977 280Z. I think that the early non-US market 5 speeds are different than those. I think that they are 71A 5 speeds, not 71B 5 speeds. So the 71C swap option might not be possible if it's a 71A style 5 speed.. What kind of shifter does it use, and what type of output shaft? Slip yoke or bolt-on? A picture would be good. Eurodat probably knows the market over there and what you might have, @EuroDat
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F54/P79 Swap Project
The tension on the chain comes from the tensioner spring, when nothing is moving. It's not much, I think it's mainly to keep things tight until oil pressure takes over. The straight side tension during operation comes from the crankshaft gear pulling it tight. Slack side tension comes from oil pressure in the tensioner. Rotate the camshaft forward or the crankshaft backward and you'll see the slop appear on the straight side. Chain tension on the loose side will push the tensioner back in its hole and the slop will end up on the straight side. That's how you can end up with confusing cam timing marks. That's my understanding. Kameari makes a pretty cool adjustable tensioner. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-5452
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The stronger one, 4- or 5-speed?
I screwed up when I said that you could do the 71C swap with your old 5 speed bellhousing/case, if it is the BW 5 speed. But, the odds are that it's not the BW 5 speed, since it's much easier to use a 71B 5 speed. The BW needs new mounts and propeller shaft. People usually leave the BW behind and just use the engine. Sorry for the diversion. What you really need to do first of all is find out which 5 speed you have. If you have the BW it will take a few more parts to get a 71B or 71C in to your car. Might as well be ready to buy them if you find them.
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Source for BRAND NEW Gear Reduction Starters
Nice find. Looks like a completely different casting than Nissan's, with an adapter plate on it. Not a bad price for new.
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The stronger one, 4- or 5-speed?
The people care about soccer. The media networks don't because they can't show as many commercials. Still, it is growing despite that. https://www.mlssoccer.com/
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The stronger one, 4- or 5-speed?
I tried to figure out where "Turku" is and got Finland as a possibility. Pukki is a Finnish international soccer player, playing for Norwich city. They just beat Man city.