Zed Head

ea6 is right, I believe. And PAtcon is right about the flame arrestor but it's in the valve cover hose. That silver PV hose is pretty big in diameter. Just stick a screwdriver in there and dig out the crud. And yes, they came in silver. you removed original paint.

It was a grammar joke. Nerdy. You said "figment" instead of fitment. Figment of imagination....

Are you sure you didn't just imagine it?

As far as the main inputs and outputs what would be different, to cause one to not work in any certain car. The fuel curve might be different, to work better with an automatic versus a manual, but the Pin 1 signal and the injector opening and closing should not be affected enough to cause major problems. Certainly not starting problems. These things aren't even computers, as we know them today. They're just parts in an automated system. Signals and measurements in, control signals out. The ECU can't tell what car it's in, they all look the same to it. The wiring diagrams for the EFI system don't even have any of the typical "auto" versus manual dotted lines, like the full car diagrams do. And. if you look at the chart in the first post, NMC and JECS don't even distinguish between them in the same way. JECS uses the same number for all of the MT cars, except for 75. NMC switches after 76. No rhyme, no reason. Also, didn't know this myself, there is no Federal 1975 car, apparently. I don't think that's right but the chart has nothing listed. Do all 75's have catalytic converters and EGR?

I tried ECU's from 75 to 78 on my 76 and they all worked. Might be that there's something wrong with that A11...000 ECU. I was lucky enough to have my car when lots of spare ECU's were floating around from a local guy, and I had a 76 original and a 78 parts car. All Federal models. I always tried spare parts in my car to be sure that they had value.

Looking at the diagram you can see that if there's power on both sides of the fusible link then there should be power on at least one side of the EFI relay. You can also see that the ignition relay actuates the EFI relay. Check that power source. That's the basics of troubleshooting with a meter and a diagram. Power here?...check...power here?...check... Might be that the 76 dash transplant brought some 76 wiring with it. Who knows....

CO knows the 78 system better than most. @Captain Obvious But I would doublecheck both of the fusible links that supply the EFI relay. That tachometer problem could be many things. But with the key on you should definitely see battery voltage at the injector connectors. The system works by grounding that power. So, no power, no injection. I like to work from wiring diagrams myself. You can see that power to the ECU and power to the injectors each has their own fusible link. They would be the green ones connected directly to the battery positive. Not in the fusible link block, but separate, hanging, sort of, by the battery. With a plastic connector that often gets connected backwardly to the negative connector which is identical. Nissan faux pas...

You might get your problem resolved if you can get to talk to the owner of the shop. You've probably been talking to somebody low in the organization. But, if you make fun of the people you talk to, ridicule them, call them stupid, and/or tell them how angry you are, they'll just tell you to get lost. I don't see the Item number on the paperwork you posted (I didn't look very hard). You didn't say if it was the correct number for the 2+2. 4 seater. It's probably on the box. If you find that the Item number is incorrect, it will make things easier. That's a miscommunication. If the item number is correct then they have to figure out who put the wrong parts in the box. I would go through all of your communications with them from the beginning and see if you can find a place where a mistake was made. I've always found that if you can show the path to a problem people will accept their mistake more easily. But, you might find that you made the mistake, so be ready.

So it idles well, and it's not running rich? Problem solved? You should measure the TVS values at the ECU connector like the book shows. The ECU can't see those contacts, it only knows what the wires tell it. That is a Fuel Injection Corp reman. Sold by MSA. They take the Nissan model number off of the original. I had one of those and it ran rich at idle. Couldn't pass emissions with it, even with the idle air bypass wide open. It worked great otherwise. Not really sure how they verify that their remans work correctly. I don't see the resistance numbers for the AFM. 100 and 180. Numbers, numbers, numbers....

You don't have the old set to compare to? Here is the web site of the company they bought from. Based on the box in your picture. There should be an "Item number" on the box. https://www.accmats.com/commerce/1979/Nissan/280ZX/Flooring/4586/

You made your point. The posts you're quoting are over 5 years old.

What brands are the two that failed and how did they fail? What broke? Pictures always good.

The TVS being stuck on wide open can cause wet plugs also. You can check that at the ECU plug also. I assume that your coolant temperature sensor reading was at the ECU plug.

I went back a few posts and see the part about how the car ran well when there was a gap between the AFM and the throttle body. If I read it right. The fact that the idle adjustment screw doesn't raise idle speed implies that your AFM vane is stuck. Take the black cover off and see if the counterweight moves when you use the throttle. It should. And you should set the AFM idle screw back to where you started with it. It's not an idle speed screw, it's an air-fuel ratio adjustment screw.

What is the reading on Pin 13? We need numbers. And what color are your injectors?

gnosez shows that he's in Italy. I don't think he is but his name does sound like "Gino says". @gnosez And Will S. @Will S Those are the only two. https://www.classiczcars.com/membermap/

A few people have responded that he's talking to the wrong person. On the other hand, it seems possible that old cars are not allowed in Italy. Maybe in the highly populated areas like Rome. He hasn't really said where he is located. Here in the States the rules can be different in the metro areas compared to the rural areas.

It does not exist. Nissan did not produce such a certificate, from what I've seen over the years. Nobody has ever shown such a certificate in any collection of provenance, for any Z car, even the $310,000 car recently sold. You should just put your own document together using the pages from the front of the Factory Service Manuals and the Owners' Manuals..

That's a bummer then. The caps are super-expensive. I tried to find one for my 76 and couldn't do it. https://zcardepot.com/products/gas-cap-fuel-lid-oem-240z-260z-280z-70-76?_pos=6&_sid=0d0ab3a6a&_ss=r

This sub-forum might help - https://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/category/7-want-ads/

I converted your message for you. Looks like a typical government bureaucracy. Find the oldest person in the building. They will probably know how to get it done. "Thanks for your help. But that's not what they asked me. They need an official certificate from the manufacturer or a responsible body that describes the technical data of the car in a single sheet. In Italy this machine has never been registered and for this reason the Civil Motorization Office does not have official data. I purchased the car in Germany but the German documents are not enough to be able to register it in Italy. What the civil motorization office asks for is a certificate of origin from the manufacturer on the chassis of my car"

Looks like you have a separate problem of a leaking filler neck. Unless the fuel is all the way up to the top of the neck and is leaking from the gas cap. Take the cap off and see where the fuel level is. Fuel should never leak from the filler area. Here is the document that describes the heat soak problem.

Pretty ingenious. Easier than drilling, for sure.

Did you use a meter to check for power at one side of the fuse? Might be a fusible link. Download the FSM and the wiring diagram and start probing. EL = electrical. The diagram is in the back of the chapter I think. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/14-280zx/

Apparently, Al, AKA URGELIS, has started a new company called Doctor Datsun Restorations. He doesn't show his name on the new site but he seems to be the guy behind it. Just posting so that people will know the history before getting involved. History is full of fly-by-night companies and people, who change identities after they wear one place out. One guy recently had a good experience though. Maybe he's changed. More history will tell.