Zed Head

We were just suggesting the DIY way. It's fun. Watching the highly flammable fuel squirt out next the sparky battery connections, creating a cloud of vapor. Good times. As far as Howard: what else would you expect him to say? He's a businessman with $25,000 worth of capital. Just kidding, but seriously... $15 per injector isn't bad. You said you had another set? You might send him seven, if they're Nissan brand, so if he finds a bad one you won't have to buy one of his $30 injectors. And you'll have a spare.

They look like oil pan plugs.

It got a bid. $8,000. USD, I assume.

Could still be dirty/corroded terminals. Or loose terminals. Many people just push the terminals on to the battery posts by hand and leave them that way. They have to be cleaned then clamped down tightly on the posts for the cleaning to last. Otherwise they just get corroded again.

I've posted this before so it might bring up some deja vu. But the numbers you seek might be in here. It's a lot of pages though. He's your Hybridz doppelganger, I think https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110792-high-rpm-shifting-dynamics/

rcb is right, it just needs to close when warm. It has a heater inside it. If it's open at room temperature that's good. Apply 12 volts to the terminals and it should close in a few minutes. But it's not a vacuum leak if it doesn't close, it's a throttle blade bypass. Like opening up your idle speed screw.

I had a set from a 78 that looked way worse than those. Outside was all rusted up. But they flowed evenly when i tested them. The insides were in great shape. That is the part number for the factory original Nissan injectors. They make a tan color also. The number is the part number for the plastic body, I think. Doesn't mean a lot.

But Standard shows the same style on their web site for the FJ707. You have to fill out some stuff, it uses cookies. https://www.standardbrand.com/en/ecatalog?year=1978

The T means "economy" product. There a lots of T products from Standard. I don't see it on Rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,fuel+&+air,fuel+injector,6224 The selection is much smaller than it used to be. No BWD either.

Found some links - https://www.witchhunter.com/spraypattern1.php http://performancefuelsystems.com/InjectorSprayStyles-TechCorner.htm They say the pintle is designed to spread the fuel but, as you've seen, and me too, it's not much.

Definitely looks like fun. The not-so-hot cars can be driven without so much worry. Here's another new thing. D-Brinkworth flares. Never heard of them either. https://www.facebook.com/DBrinkworthFlares

The early Bosch style injectors just sprayed a stream. Primitive.

The sides don't match. The driver's side is sticking out, the passenger side is even. This car is a driver, not a looker, I think.

You just beat me... I was about to post that the car looks like a fairly beat up old 73 240Z with a nice engine in it. Look at the paint and the fender flare work in the pictures. For 25-40K he should at least splurge on some aftermarket fenders. Don't know. I'd need to see a build sheet with some big numbers on that engine to get up over 15. Just me... If he cut the fenders to make room for the tires, he probably cut dollars off the sale price.

It's pretty easy to "verify" your own injectors, at least as far as wide open flow rate. You can put them on a fuel rail and measure output. Most reconditioning is just a cleaning and a new inlet screen, if possible. Often it's just cleaning. Besides the inlet screen and the hose and the pintle cap, these old injectors cannot be "rebuilt". What injectors do you have? Are they original? Pictures are always good.

Interesting. Comments are funny. It has an R180 diff. And an ECU Masters engine control. Never heard of them but they look like a reasonable engine management option. New knowledge. https://ecumasterusa.com/

Four posts up. siteunseen's post. The grinding noise is probably teeth on teeth. Note sure why the post numbers are gone.

Might be a dirty throttle body and blade. Nissan changed the PCV system in 77 because the PCV gases were gumming up the throttle. The fact that you can stop it by moving the throttle back with your foot is a sign. Mine only did it when the engine got good and warm.

That would be about a 17% power loss. The 15 degree limit, or less, is a fairly common problem. Somebody in the past probably installed your oil pump incorrectly. Or you have the wrong base on your distributor. You don't need more than 15% initial. You can wait on fixing it. Getting these things tuned up right is a long slow process for most, after they've sat.

Post a picture with the cap off. We don't even know what kind of distributor you have,

I missed the "C". So $832 USD opening bid, $1418 buy it now. Still up there, not so bad though. No bids yet. Still cheaper than CD. https://www.californiadatsun.com/transmission/transmissions/

The gauge is adjustable. A screw on the back. Still need an external meter to be sure of the adjustment.

Take the cap off? Look?

The Nissan u-joints are high precision pieces. Final sizing is done by their color-coded washers of various thickness. I bought a set of new $20 each Precision u-joints and basically ruined a set of half-shafts. They were looser with new aftermarket than they were with used Nissan. If you're not buying new Nissan (~$80 each if you can find them) think twice about replacing the used ones.