tlorber

He says he "rescued" it. He should have let it rust in peace. Other than the hatch glass, there ain't a whole lot there to work with.

I have a 3.7 that I bought from a member on this site. It was out of an 810 and was in pristine condition. It is on the car with an '82 zx five speed and is a great combo-slightly taller than the 3.9's that came on the zx's but the S30's are lighter. At 85mph I'm at about 3,100 rpm.

It is a tad dodgy, but very nice nonetheless.

Chris, the "sad" reality is that these cars are not worth a heck of a lot of money, especially in the current climate. I put "sad" in quotes only because it is not necessarily a bad thing. I, for one, would not be driving my car the way I do if the car and parts were the price of 911 parts. That being said, just remember that if you are doing a bolt on modification it can always be reversed-the only down side being that you have to store the original parts somewhere for an extended period of time. Rather than worrying about value I believe most here would concur that you should make the car safe. That means to go through your suspension and brakes first-especially if it has been sitting for a while. There are many writeups here describing the sequence and processes. Be sure car will stop before it goes fast! Then, bit by bit, as you learn the car, figure out what else you want to do to it. One promise I can make you is that you'll NEVER be finished with it.

I believe it actually retards timing in the highest gear. I can't remember if '75 are Atkins motors or not. If not, you could always bypass any emissions garbage.

Johnny, just so you know, I have the R/T mount AND the original mount in place and still get a clunk. The R/T mount is definitely a more secure configuration but it may not solve the problem. Once I get my car back underway I will be checking the struts, and may need to shim them as Steve911 mentioned.

As long as you keep the parts from your 4 speed (fork, throwout bearing collar, pressure plate)together as a unit, you should be fine. The B type 4 speed shifter (from my '73) was actually 3/8" longer from pivot point to the bottom than the later shifter I had come across. This provided a slightly shorter throw. Even so, I still had about 1 1/8" taken off the top of the shifter. I spent about $120 in parts to rebuild my 5 speed before I put it in. New bearings, baulk rings, and seals. All gears were in good shape.

I've heard that the tranny cooler can be used as an oil cooler. Anyone here plumbed that in?

Blue, what the deuce is going on the that avatar? Now you've simply gone too far!

Wish I could get my car back together by then. I'll have to catch the next one.

Blue, did you scuff up or ball hone the interior of the brake cylinder bores?

I think someone or something (the Force?) is telling you to get a 5 speed.

Just be careful as you put the strut in, since the oil will come spewing out the top. By the way, I'm betting that blue will be back with more "freakish" avatars.

If anyone in the Los Angeles area plans on driving up there, I have a spare in Van Nuys.

Well gents, I hate to contribute to this but I think I'm going to have to offer my apologies for 41613. I bought it for parts, and while I feel guilty about cutting it up, I think that's the direction I'll have to go. I know you east coast guys get on us for destroying cars that are in good condition compared to what you tend to see. Its just that I need to get my '73 back in order and I don't have the time, money, or permission to take on another car. My rationalization is that I will have parts that hopefully you guys will be able to use to get even more cars back on the road. On the positive side, at the shop where I found the car was #3042. It will probably be getting a power plant upgrade but will soon be in motion.

I agree with the media blasting on the intake mani's. If you want the domes shiny I would go with 400 grit, then 1000 grit, then a buffing wheel. If you use sandpaper, make sure you stick paper towells in both the interior of the domes, and in the interior bore where the plunger goes. You don't want to scratch or contaminate these areas. The throttle bodies are tough, because to really get those clean you need to take off all the parts. Buff the balance tube the same way as the domes.

The Datsun roadster (2 liter=U 20 motor) uses HS6's. They are virtually identical to those of the Z.

I didn't realize you only ran it a couple of blocks. You'll be fine. When I did this to my car last month I severed the radiator. I had to drive it like this for about 25 miles on a dry motor to get it back to the hotel. Luckily it was cool out and I kept shutting the car off at the top of each grade, but I made it back and was able to put in a temporary radiator and drove the car 225 miles home. No issues on the drive other than some puzzled looks from other drivers.

The '73's mount in a completely different place from the '72's. You know where the '73's mount since you took them off. The '72's mount on the same general piece as the hood hinges, which is a pretty thin piece of metal. The '73 bumper supports are way beefier than earlier ones. I know that nobody wants extra weight on the car, but I can tell you from personal experience that it's worth having the heavier mounts to strengthen the front bumper. If you do choose to go the '72 route, you may find the holes just under the hood hinge points (my car is not at home so I can't verify right now).

Looks Great, Casey. I'll second Julio's question above; is that 901 silver?

Check the the oil for water and smell it. Check the water for oil, and then put a new belt on. The major concern would be the fact that the water pump wasn't pumping and the head warped. If the fluids look, run the car and see if vapor comes out the pipe (after the car has warmed up) and keep an eye on both the temp and the coolant level. How long were you running it without the belt? Coincidentally, I was down your way yesterday (Garden Grove and Westminster) buying a Z.

Were those pics from the "UFO" series? Notice the woman with the Brittany Spears pose-with just a tad more discretion.

Ben, make sure you use a paint like POR or similar. The suspension parts take a lot of road grit.

Great to hear that you can now spend $65.00 filling your tank, like the rest of us.

I spray glued carpet padding to the back side of the interior panels. This dampens the sound greatly.