Z Kid

Electrical current is like a fat chick, it takes the path of least resistance (this is why you do not wear a gold ring when spot welding). So if there is greater resistance inside the lead then what it takes to get to the metal body of the car and earth itself, then it will jump to the body of the car, producing your arcing. Most leads are just a bit of string dipped in carbon, so they can break if they have been bent in a tight corner or twisted etc.

You talking about the bit that is on the back of the seat itself? If you are interested PM me.

Or you could do what the previous owner of my 1600 did, install a killer alarm system, wired to both airhorns and claxon thing, then in a moment of genius, install a battery isolator switch which also turns off the alarm system

While you guys are discussing history, what do you think of this ebay statement. Quote by guy selling the car "The engine is the L24 2.4 liter with the E31 head. The engine is original but the numbers do not match, this is because Datsun (nissan) took about a year and a half to get things together due to how their factory was set up. If anywhere on the assembley line something didn't pass quality check the vehicle was sidelined and then the next car went through and got that vehicles engine. This made sure that none of the early 240z's had correct engine and frame matching numbers." http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2419720690&category=6187 Its supposedly a genuine all original Z car, so it kind of fits in with the topic (not really but hey) Is this really true??

The most likely cause will be the bush that is in the middle of the stick, you pull out the stick by removing the pin and sliding up, there should be a bush here, but chances are there isn't one anymore. Its a bush in the hole where the pivot pin goes through.

Well I have just finished pulling the previous owners attempts out of my cars, and here are the ideas. In behind the fuel filler, totally invisible, that was for the alarm, and under the dash for the immoboliser.

IN the spirit of being cheap DATSUN 260Z FITTED with RB20DET, ENS system with hand set, $3000, UUM-717 CRAIGMORE 0401-35 3787

Not from me, but sounds good for you people looking for 2 seater bits (attn drunken master) 240/260z 2 seater parts all mech parts and some body parts rolling shells email your needs Price: neg Location: perth Contact: ian Email: idredge@iinet.net.au Phone: 0893593075 (hours: any) Cant find it, but somewhere I have a phot from him about 11 or 12 cars, many of them 2 seaters.

Chances are your little plastic bushes in the shifter between it and the pin have worn, these are easily replacable. They slot in between the shifter and the pin that goes sideways through it. The little plastic cup on the end of the shifter may also have gone. I am at the moment turning up a little set of bronze ones (well I got the bronze rod) I will let you know how it feels on the bench, as I don't have a car for it to go in

Numbers of head stamped on the head, spark plug side, I think from memory between the no 1&2 plug.

Whats it worth to you? I have got one here, dog eared, looks like maybe a cat peed on it? It covers the 70-78 Z's, 240, 260, 280. Covers Fuelinjection components, slow running adjustment, and testing. (3 whole pages) Lots of engine stuff. Whats it worth to you. It and its two other friends aren't worth much to me. Email me if you are interested. FWIW Its printed in AMerica, so if the zx efi is the same as the 280z you should be good to go. Will trade it for any badges for a 240, or a few bucks cold hard cash.

Getting these clips off the window winders does not have to be hard. Simply get an old piece of towel or rag, slide it down, then move it back and forth a few times, the clip will just pop straight off. As for refitting, fit the clip first then just slide the crank on.

Looks pretty good (referring to the lack of rust around the flat part of the guards) and if it runs well even better. So got any pics of the whole car? I take it its at your house now? Terrible colour.

Reminds me about the three ducks who went into the bar on a rainy day. They sidle up to the bar and the first one asks for a drink. Gets into a bit of a conversation with this talking duck, and asks its name how its days been. It responds "Simon, yeah great, been in and out of puddles all day". So he gives it its drink and moves to the second duck, and gets the response "Names wal, Yeah great, been in and out of puddles all day". He gets to the third duck "My names Puddles, and don't even ask how my F*%king day was"

I'm 6'7 and I kind of fitted in my Z when it was all together, I think a smaller wheel would have helped, and there are a couple of plastic spacers under the seat which can be popped out. Interestingly I do not fit into 2+2's the door handle wedges my leg against the steering wheel making reaching the brake a wish, and not physically possible with the door shut properly.

Stryder, did anything ever come of this? What was it like? Any pictures?

The deal basically is you have to have the brakes or equivelant from whatever car the motor came out of. I think what he is trying to do is to get the equivelant of an L28, while maintaining his original block, so the boys in blue won't know the difference.

Your best bet may be to talk to the companies which import US cars by the container full (from memory ben was saying he had a mate who did that from the US) Failing that just approach a company with your problem, they are often willing to let you chuck a few smallish items in there for a minimal charge. (and everything is pretty small compared to a 40' sea container.

FWIW The back light panel of the 260 2+2 is wider than the 2 seater. Roughly measures up at 132.5cm for 240 2 seater, to 135.5 for 260Z 2 seater, not much, but enough to make trying to fit the light surrounds above the skills of you or me. Maybe the 260 2 Seater is wider than the 240, Don't have the car to measure. Measurements were taken from the edge of the car body and across to the other side. In reference to the radiator bubbles, if the head or gasket is blown, you can get pressure from the compression of the motor forcing exhaust gasses back out through the radiator, so under acceleration, with the cap off the radiator, you get bubbles coming through, which shouldn't be there in a healthy motor.

The best place I have seen them mounted was on a rear strut tower brace (Zoom mag car). That is unless or course you have a full cage with a nice bar you can tie them too?

Not sure about the engine swap side of stuff, however where abouts in SA are you? I have only found a couple of people over here that have Z's. There are a few good local sources for parts, PM if you want them.

You did all the basic on the spot checks, like looking for bubbles in the radiator under acceleration, and checked for creamy oil after running? Other than that there is not much you can do except for haggle.

Wow, experts, they should get it right, as long as its not you, a drill and a few mudguard washers, trying to bolt them to the floor in the back. Remember being strapped to your car inside a rollcage does not make you invincable.

Just me, but I always find those race harnesses are too damn restrictive, sure they may save your life, but have you ever tried going throgh a drive through with yourself pinned to the seat, even reching some of the dash controls may be hard. I am personally really fond of the lap belts, so free and easy. I guess its a compromise, safer in a crash means pain in the arse till you crash Where will you mount them george, remembering you need to keep the mount point at the same height as your shoulders, or you get really weird forces in a crash (trying to rip your seat out and shrink your spine)

From the sounds of it even the motor alone would be worth it, And if the front panels are any good, they are worth a pretty good price too. That said, I have sold doors off at a good price, advertise on OZdat and its amazing what you can sell.