emccallum

Thanks Jonathan, I had no way of trying to figure out the tap size. That was way bigger than anything I have. PC is tough stuff.

I got most everything back from powdercoating and started assembling the struts. New bearings, seals, KYB inserts and brake hardware. I ran into two issues. 1. Powdercoater must have dropped one rear strut and dinged the threads for the stut gland nut. Should have left the old gland nuts in the struts. I played with it for a while and a friend was over that was headed to a machine shop to get something done, so I handed it to him to drop off. I hope it can be chased, because I have a lot of time in the rear bearings! 2. On one front strut the caliper was barely scrapping the rotor on the outer edge. I thought that I didnt seat a bearing race completely, so I tore all back apart and races were fine. I tried another caliper, and it is the same, so I am thinking the rotor (Centric) is a little too thick. I noticed the other rotor appears out of round. I may have them turned or try a different brand. It just barely scrapes. Both rotors measure very close to the same dimensions. Weird. I also hooked up with 240 rubber and got some goodies in the mail today. Glad it worked out as his stuff looks nice and only took a couple of weeks once we got the order settled. I saw on BAT where a very nicely restored 73 240 sold for $88,888, so that justifies a few orders for me 🙂.

My 72 had a wrinkled undercoat, that was applied without the gas tank installed and I am pretty sure it was bare metal under it. We sandblasted it all off. I would doubt any dealer would have gone through the trouble to remove stuff to apply an undercoat. I think the answer is that undercoating may have varied from year to year as the cars rusted way, or our definitons of undercoating vary 🙂

Looks like a solid 240z, with a lot to like. Its a shame they didnt take an extra 30 minutes to cover the engine bay for overspray. How long does it take to remove the plastic intake vents and the washer bottle??

you are welcome. I couldnt figure out why I didnt have my usual 100 pictures, then I remembered I used that thread as my guide. Post up some pictures of your restoration......misery loves company 🙂

Here is a good thread I used

Ryals, I have a ton of heater box pictures. What are you looking for? Happy to post them. ernest

I can take some pictures when I get home, but its basically just an offset flat piece of metal. Should be able to find a pick online. I would think you could bend one pretty easily.

Marquis zinc plus in Dundalk, MD. Tabitha is who answers the phone and was very helpful. I could never get there website to run right, so I would just call them.

Did some reading last night on paint for the rear light surround and grill. After a couple of hours of interesting threads, I decided to go with Duplicolor dark shadow gray. The cap looked a little lighter than I thought it should be, but I trusted the forum and went with it. Once I saw it on the parts it was like being back in the 70's. Very close to what I remember. Going to use a clear matte over it. I have decided its good to be a gamecock fan (even though my kids go/went to Clemson) as there is no need to watch the entire game. Its usually over by half time 🙂 and I can get back to the shop.

That looks just like the knob that my dad had in his 77 280 when I was a kid.

This thread has made me rethink my engine restoration. I have old Nikki and Ampco fuel pumps. I believe both are the originals to 240s. After reading a bunch of threads I decided to order a NOS Nikki that according to others has all the same internals as the one for the 240. I will attempt to rebuild one of my old originals and do away with the made in china knock off.

Jim, Thank you for posting the follow up. It will be a while before I actually crank my rebuilt motor, but I just checked my parts list and I purchased a US Motor works fuel pump! Thanks for the heads up and glad you seem to have it sorted. ernest

View Advert 1972 240z exhaust heat riser Looking for a good condition heat riser to go on a stock manifold. Must be the two bolt variety. Thanks! Advertiser emccallum Date 08/21/2022 Price $25 Category Parts Wanted Year 1972 Model 240

Charles, I will get a list together and give him another shout. Thanks.

I have ordered a good bit of stuff from Zcar depot. No issues, but I haven't had to contact them. Just placed a big order last night and it shipped today. @conedodger, 240zrubber has some very nice looking stuff that I would really like for my restoration. I have tried to contact him a couple of times and never got a reply. Too bad, as he is very close to me. With a lot of his stuff "out of stock" and no reply, I have been a bit hesitant to order anything.

Thanks. I think it it coming together pretty nice. I am planning to keep the manifold "cooling" 🤣 intact unless it gives me an issue.

HAHA! It is. My brother put that on. Shouldn't ever trust an attorney. Thanks for the heads up, I guess I would have noticed eventually.

Some motor porn.

Please don't read this wrong. It is your car and you can do whatever you want to make yourself happy. IMO, that is a very nice, solid, unmolested example. Even with a "modified" driveline the car will not be very fast compared with a modern car. Why not go through the car and keep it all original? I have done the L28 with e31 head , turbos, and other variations in the past. Sure, it was fun, but I didnt really find them to be that much more fun than a stock 240. I just have an appreciation of the survivors, I guess because I am becoming one myself!

I just put one of my 240 struts together using the KYB stuff. I did just like you show in your picture. I figure when its under load it will be about right. I would have no problem just leaving them off.

Thanks Racer X. I have a two post lift, so I have some options and plenty of time to think about it!

Received some parts back from powdercoating. I started assembling some things as I wait for the body shop. I should get the motor back in the next week. We were waiting on the hardware to get plated, then realized the idiot who last worked on the motor did not stamp the crank and we had the wrong bearings. Searched high and low and finally found the right ones. I am thinking of assembling the motor and subframe including suspension then lowering the body on to it. I think that would be easier. Anyone else ever done it this way?