smg1404

I'm probably not the expert on this, but that is what I think happens. Evidently the Toyota brakes are made by the same vendor as the Datsun brakes. They appear to be enhanced versions of the same caliper.

Of course I no longer need to look. I should be getting a set in the near future.... I'm excited, I get some real stopping power. I wonder do I need to change anything else, ie master cylinder etc.??

I used to run the aluminum offset bushings. I loved them. I used to run with the top of the wheel set 1/8" to 1/4 " further in than the bottom. This did make my tires wear faster in the middle, but I cornered very well, which was my greatest concern.

sounds logical.... However I still think this guy is full of it. He is probably just legal enough to stay out of jail.

I think they should have built an updated version of the original. It could have better aerodynamics, and brakes. They could build it out of carbon fiber, and aluminum. Bring the weight in at about 1800lbs, and hp at around 300hp. Sounds about right to me. Give a fuel effecient six or eight all aluminum mill that can turn up to about 9gs. Sorry ..... sometimes I get carried away about these things.

I will try that, I have also seen a picture or two that showed people having a fuel filter in the vent line. Does that sound like a good idea, or just a waste of time?

I was asking for a caliper from a '88. I should have asked for an earlier one.

Try these guys... http://www.jimcookracing.com

I just checked... and I did't see them I suppose I should double check what I post.. Sorry. I must have confused them with some one else. I will get back on this...

Aricona Zcar has both.. I can't say if the price is competive. http://www.arizonazcar.com/

Question... does anyone have a recomendation for venting a fuel cell. I connected a hose to the vent fitting and ran it out through the floor in the drivers rear fender.. Lately I have noticed that it looks like fuel is either sloshing up and out through the vent, or it is evaporating and condensing in the vent. But there is obiously fuel escaping from the vent. Sorry I do not have a picture to post at this time. I can get one this evening.

You could easily spend a lot of time and money finding all of the problems. Especially if someone has modified the Injection system. A couple of Ideas come to mind as to how to approach this problem. You could try to find a complete replacement for the intake manifold/ injection system. Or you could ditch the injection and go to carburators. I had a failing injection system on my old 280 years ago. I decided to go for carburators for a couple of reasons. First I knew very little about fuel injection, and was comfortable with carbs. The second was when I found out was wrong with my injection system the cost was very close to the purchase price of a set of carbs. This just how it worked for me My 2cents Good luck

I doubt he has the GTO , or any other Zcar. He is no doubt a low life scum E-Thief Scam artist. He obviously has no Idea what he is talking about. Too bad his add is not in front of some attorney general some where. This boy needs to go down.

You are probably right... But an easy way to check is to use a voltmeter. connect it to your battery while the car is running. If you get 13.5 to 14.7 volts with the motor running the alternator is OK. I had a bettery go bad within 30 days once, A good one too. So don't rule the battery out even if it's new. Also don't forget to check the belt tension. It should be tight enough to not slip without being too tight. I found out the hard way that over tightened belt makes your water pump fail in no time flat. Good luck.

Having practically no budget at all to complete my car I used Rustoleum Spray bombs... With some surface prep and a little cleanup after wards. It looks almost presentable. Sorry to interupt the train of thought..

I the auto skills shop if well equipped they probably have one already. If not you should be able to get one at almost nay auto store.

I would be interested in those shorter springs when you have them off. In fact if I could figure out how to trade I have a '73 240z. That is if the springs you have are the right ones.

The coil should be easy to test in the car... First make sure that there is voltage present , there should be 12 or more volts getting to the coil. you can verify the coil by simply applying and removing that voltage. When the field collapses the coil should put out a spark. Coils do fail, but it is not a frequent failure. I would be much more suspicious of the module that drives the coil, or the pickup in the distributer.

Is the smoke blue or black? when do you see it? Is it when you are accellerating hard, or when you shift? Blue smoke would indicate burning oil. Black would be too much fuel (rich mixture). I have never heard of valve adjustment causing a smoking condition. If you suspect the valves, by all means adjust them soon. Misadjusted valves (too tight) can cause damage to your head and valves. This would eliminate any question about the valves. If you are making blue smoke durring shifts, the problem is most likely valve seals, and maybe guides. If you see blue smoke all of the time, the problem is probably worn oil rings. The other possibility could be over filled oil. Check the level. Good lick.

I participated in the poll. It's surprising how many people got their cars for less than $1000.00. Boy did I over pay. I cannot say why more have not used it. Perhaps they are looking at the results only? I liked the poll, Thanks :Steve

This guy has a very fast zed.... but he appears to be a menace to everyone around him. I am surprised he has not been arrested, after all the video's are probably enough evidence to get him in a lot of trouble. Otherwise ... cool car.

I would personally buy the flywheel... But it would work for my driving style. It may not fit yours... as for the clutch I have never needed anything more than the stock clutch. The important part is how do you use your car. If hole shots and drag racing is your interest, then you should probably keep your flywheel, or replace it with one from a 2+2.and get the heavier clutch. I you are into autocrossing and that more of a road racing driving style, you will love an aluminum flywheel. The accelleration in the lower gears goes from quick to fantastic. It makes less improvement in the upper gears. read some discussions on the web to get driving impressions. I drove a car that had one for a while, and it was a blast. The important thing to remember about the clutch is that if used properly it will last almost forever, if not ... they can go out frequently. You can take off aggressively, but try not overreving the engine. The goal of a burn out is to get the engine rpm up into the power band at take off. But the trick is to not spin the wheels too much, because you loose time doing that also. For shifts you should get off the throttle and let the clutch fully seat before reapplying power. With practice this is a quick process and you really do not lose almost any time in accelerating , but you gain a lot of time for your clutch. Good luck

I called the local junk yards, and they all asked the same question. Is it for a four or six cylinder .... does it matter? and if so which should I ask for?