conedodger

Will do Grant. I just have to get the car in the same state I'm in long enough to do it. It's been at my friends shop in Sonoma for the last few months. I see it when I am in California...

Just a quick update: I have been driving on the calipers that you see rebuilt here for a few months now. I used the Porterfield R4S pads and shoes that I sourced from PMB Performance, Eric's company. The brakes are everything I imagined. They are balanced and strong and haul the car down without drama which is exactly what I was looking for. No noise, very little dust, just a great pad. As you can see from the pictures of the rebuild, I sent Eric some absolute junk and he turned them into jewels. Follow his method or just send him an email and have him do it... I suspect you can get some quick turn-around too, since I sent him all the other core calipers I had in the garage as well...

A bit of pre-race preparation. Nice use of the hauler for sure!

Nothing vintage about this pic but worth seeing!

Not sure really whether these guys are racing or running from something!

Here are a few more I have found... Not sure when or where they were taken.

A little rich but not too bad at idle...

A couple more pictures of the car...

Leon, I see what you are saying now. I agree that all of these things (air temperature, humidity) have an effect on performance, however since they vary pretty dramatically during the day it is impractical to tune for them. I do think that the difference in jetting for sea level (Sacramento) and 4500' above (Reno) will be pretty dramatic. I have houses in both locations but I will be living primarily in Reno. I have dyno tuned my Porsche 914 at both Sacramento and Reno and the difference at best tune was 13.5% lower in Reno. That is with programmable EFI which controls for IAT, MAP, O2 sensor, and throttle position. I am confused by your assumption that I don't have a wideband O2 sensor installed since a good deal of the posts after the first one have to do with the installation of the wideband O2 sensor. I will include the pictures here so you don't have to back up and look at them. Reno is generally cooler by a few degrees than Sacramento, it is dramatically less humid and of course, 4500' higher. If we follow your premise that air temperature and humidity should be considered, I might have to tune several times a day to be right on the best tune. My point is that you need to eliminate those variables. I awoke to 27 degrees this morning and I am presently on my garage computer with the garage door open and it is 55 degrees. When do I tune? What if it rains tomorrow? Do I have to tune again before I drive? Carbs just don't have the adjustability to control for your variables. You simply get your best tune on the day and time you tune with those present conditions. My original post was a spitball hope that someone was running a similar engine in Reno and could give me a good place to start. My best hope was Coop but my friend Bill tells me he is an ITS racer and the rules require SU carbs. I love a good discussion. You come up and hang with us in the garage anytime Leon! :classic:

Wow! Hi Wick! I have worn out your book a couple times over now... Good luck in your search. What are you doing in Chico? I got the impression that you lived in Texas from your book.

I'd love to hear more about your theory Leon. From what I know about science, I'd have to disagree so far... At sea level, air molecules and ultimately oxygen is under more pressure and thus packed more tightly together. At 4500', much less so. This is why humans and all other animals for that matter have trouble breathing at altitude. Where this comes into effect with carbs is that the gas and air must mix at a ratio in order for things to run well. I like to keep that just under the theoretical magic 14.7:1. A larger first number is lean, less is rich. I like to be just north of 13:1 to protect the motor. I'm not disputing that weather has an effect. In fact internal combustion engines like cooler air and that is sometimes a manipulated variable, e.g. water injection. One need only take a highly strung engine out on a cool summer night to feel how much it likes cooler temperatures. I don't think this is something we can manipulate at the carb for tuning purposes. Bottom line, from what I know atmospheric pressure as it goes up and down are the only thing that drives the need to re-jet for rich or lean purposes. My car has not been to Reno yet but I know that since it is tuned for sea level it will be rich at 4500'.

Oh I'm sure Bill has seen this thread... He is the biggest Uber-lurker on the internet. 15 hours a day of internet time but 0 posts. Oh and Bill - Oh yes I did say that! 8D The problem though is that while Bill does run Mikuni's and his jetting is similar to mine, he is jetted for sea level too and I am looking for 4500' or there about.

Coop, my friend Bill Madamba schooled me on who you are and what you do with your Z. I look forward to meeting you. When he said you had an ITS car, I knew you were no help on Weber jetting. 8D I don't do any wheel to wheel but track days are fun... I look forward to spending a day at Reno-Fernley this coming year.

Kind of quiet around here... So I finished up the install of the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 gauge in the ashtray today. Check it out. Should make tuning much easier. I already know that I am way too rich at idle.

Seems like I am not getting a quick answer so I decided to whip out something I have had sitting in the garage on a shelf and install it to help me figure out where I am and which direction I need to go... Though I expect I will need to be a lot leaner! I had a Innovate Motorsports LC-1 sitting on the shelf that I bought a couple years back. I had intended to sell it because it didn't work with the EFI I put in my 914 but what the heck! I can put it in the 240Z and get tuned a lot closer than I could just guessing or asking you guys here! First I welded in the bung and installed the sensor, then I decided to hide the gauge and what better place than the ashtray since I have never used one in my life! Now it has a use! And as you can see, my interior remains completely stockish since it is a 'now you see it now you don't install.'

I recently moved from Sacramento (sea level) to Reno 4500' above sea level. My triple Weber carbs are pretty much perfectly tuned and synched for sea level. Anyone have an idea what jetting I should go to for 4500' above?

Wow! That is a blast from the past for sure... I went to a **** Turner School probably before that video was made as he offered no video or books at the school. I still remember him dividing us up into front drive, rear drive, and Porsche 911 drivers. There was a bunch of snickering until he said that the 911 had some of the bad habits of both front and rear drive cars and needed special instruction. I didn't realize the meaning of this until I drove a well set up 911 at an event and it pushed like a pig through a big loop. I remembered what **** Turner had said and the next time through, I throttle steered the hell out of it and took 2.5 seconds off... Good luck finding it.. It would be on VHS in raw form I'd bet.

How about some BRE 510's?

This is probably another from the same event. The guy I got the picture from is a nephew of Colin Chapman and a major Porsche 914 guy. I believe he is restoring a factory GT 914 of which there were 49 documented and owns another 914 6 as well... I will ask him to introduce himself next time he sees your car. His name is TC Carr and he lives in Florida too...

A buddy of mine sent me this... I guess because I have both a Z and a couple Porsches:ermm:

Carl's car?

Here is a shot that hasn't seen the light of day in years. Bay area friend got his neighbor who was a race fan and amateur photographer in the '70s to scan this and put it on a disc for me... It's either the old Riverside or Laguna Seca.

So after rebuilding my Webers, I am having a problem with getting the car to rev at tip-in of the throttle plates. I added back in a stock mechanical fuel pump and at the tank I have a non-stock electric fuel pump. Previously, the fuel return line was blocked off and the fuel was dead-head banjo'd into the last carb. I now have the fuel returning to the tank. I have no choke set-up so it is cold blooded as hell until it warms up. What are you other guys with triples doing? Silverstreak is using an RX-7 E-pump at the tank. Some seem to think that the mechanical pump can't be used because it can't feed the triples. Others say they run the mechanical in addition to the E-pump in order to feed enough fuel to the triples. Could be nothing at all is wrong with my fuel pump situation and I just screwed-the-pooch on the carb rebuild!

Here is an iteration of the BSR 33 car...

Thanks, I should have known that you would know! 8D There was no 320 pickup in sight though.