conedodger

Alright, has anyone done drive by wire? If you have, what specific equipment have you used?

Here is the N42 intake mocked up. I may need a different header as I see the intake and exhaust share studs. Been a long time since I've had a 280Z! Also, has anyone mocked up a drawing for a heatshield? I can plasma cut it but it would be easier if I didn't have to duplicate someone's already done work?

I had planned to use this TWM Big Throat TB but I'm finding it might be easier to use an aftermarket DBW with a TPS than trying to get a DBW unit to fit the TWM.

Your info says "Canyon Country." I live in an area that could be called that. I live at 4500' and if I go West, I can get to 8900' within 20 miles. EFI wouldn't care about the elevation but when I had triple Webers, it did get a little dicey. Carbs are often pig-rich to cover up the bad tune. Programmable EFI has a steep learning curve but once you are proficient, you wouldn't want to go back. Imagine driving a 50 year old car with reliability and clean running along with excellent power...

I had once planned on using Megasquirt and did tons of research on sensors on the forums. This is a Bosch MAF/IAT and a GM coolant temperature sensor. The MAF/IAT sensor comes off a European BMW and it's inlet/outlet is 70mm. If you're familiar with injector selection, this engine matches nicely to the Bosch 'Green Giant' injector which is what I will be using. Haltech Elite 2500 has an internal MAP and I am not sure if I will use something external or just run a line to the ECU. I have heard of people using both but I'm not sure why or what the benefit would be.

I'm not sure anyone has noticed this yet, but the head had to be modified for injectors. Unlike Duffy, I am using a stock(ish) '75 intake manifold that has been extrudehoned. Otherwise, the only way to use EFI would be to do as Duffy did and use ITB's. I know there is more power to be had with the ITB's and someday, if Duffy can make them work really politely, I might take that leap. I want my wife to ride in the car and maybe even drive it. It is the only car I own that I have found her sitting in and 'fake driving.' She said, "I want to drive this one!" That is high praise for the Datsun because I have owned perfect 911's, 914-6, Delorean, Ferrari 308GTB, and a 944 Turbo. Pricilla has a completely restored red factory interior and I attribute her fondness for this car to the newness of the cabin. (She did like the Delorean and Ferrari). So given that I'm using a stockish set up, I had Rebello machine the head for injectors.

Well, I'm not going to uninstall one to check that but I'll try to get a measurement on the exposed thread for you. They average just on the short side of 1 1/4".

Thanks gknot!

It occurs to me that I may have trouble getting the intake or header on with the thermostat housing in place. Anyone know?

On the suggestion of others, I got the ZCarDepot exhaust kit which has stainless steel studs with 4mm allen head in the end so I can seat them positively. I also used Threadlocker Blue Gel to hold them without a death grip.

Looking at what you've done, I think you have a strong chance of passing. I am a little concerned about you "polish"(ing) the cam by hand. Does that mean you cleaned it up? One of the big mistakes made by guys who have to pass smog is changing out the cam for a performance cam. Trust me on this, you will not pass. Ever. If it were me, I'd have sent the injectors out and had them cleaned and flow matched. If they are clogged and dribble fuel into the cylinders you won't get good burn. So here is the process in California for older cars. You may have to get on the rollers so that will make a difference as to what shop you go to. Definately, if you go outside of the county you live in, you will have to go on the rollers. There will be a visual check so everything that was there the day it left the factory must be there the day you smog it. They will stick the sniffer in the tailpipe. Do yourself a favor and find a shop that will give you a precheck. They may charge you for it but don't complain. If you will not pass, they will tell you then and you will not have a failed test to alert ARB. I own a shop in Sonoma, (I do anesthesia not smog tech) and I pay almost a $1000 a month for equipment leasing. So you insult me if you ask for a free pretest. Good luck!

I should have called this project a resto-mod. It always irks me when people say "I just restored it" and then proceed to list all of the modifications they've done. While this car has been a preservation car while I've owned it, there were a ton of mods done by the original owner. Here is the trigger wheel that will tell the coils what to do... It's an Austin Hoke product.

Here is the engine. As I said above, Rebello 3.0. The cam is 27C-9, which I don’t know what that means in terms of lift and duration but I had asked Dave for a EFI street motor with some grunt. The compression is 10.2:1 so that cam will have to bleed off some compression for pump gas. The car will use a Haltech Elite 2500 for brains so you know I follow Duffy Mahoney every time he posts!

Pardon my rudeness. I should have introduced you to Pricilla first. She has Panasports now but these wheels are still in the barn if I want to change back...

I'm going to use this thread to document the progress on installing my Rebello 3.0 motor and other projects on my '73 240Z US model that I have owned for 40 years. Most of the suspension and engine modifications were done in the '70's by the original owner, the Thompson family in Northern California. I have been very slow to get this motor in as I have too many cars, two of which are projects and one is a finished project. Not to mention, I have some learn as I go talent and some that I learned as a teenager from my father and uncles. My Dad was an AT&T exec, but my uncles Donny and Sonny owned gas stations and a wrecking yard. I learned as much as I could from Dad and my uncles and I suppose I have my love of cars as more than just transportation to thank them for. As I said, I have owned this car since 1980. I have owned other Z cars, but this was the first. The guy I bought it from, apparently had an ultimatum from his wife to get rid of it or get divorced. I tried to warn him that no matter what you do in that situation, you will be getting a divorce. I paid and drove home with a crap load of spares (these had to go as well) and the triple Webers stinking of gas to high heaven! Since then, Pricilla as I call her has been garaged and polished like crazy! A friend who is a member here and has a shop has done some work on Pricilla and it was him that pointed out that the car is basically a rolling advertisement for the old Datsun Competition Catalog. It's all there but the brakes! So follow along if you're interested and I will ask advice when I need it. Today, I did something really boring but necessary. I chased threads in the cylinder head. It is an E31 head that was ported and polished in the '70's by BC Gerolomy. Those of you who know your Datsun history will know who that is as he did the heads for the first cars that raced in the country. It already had big valves so I saved some money at Rebello because all they had to do was clean it up.

Not sure. It was a Camel GT race.

Rainin’

Who’s Geoff?

Yes. Martin Schneider... The MS in MSDS.

Well, Peter Brock is an engineer and you argue with an engineer at your own peril. So if he says don’t do one without the other, you should listen. Pic of my front BRE for fun... it’s glassed to the valance. I have the original design rear, also glassed on.

Believe it or not, the company that manufactured the Datsun Competition Header is still around and the owner Marty Schneider is a friend. I can vouch for the quality too. I have the Datsun Comp headers on my Z and his 914 headers on my 914. Marty told me he can still build them. MSDS in the LA area...

Seems easier to just get a Harbor Freight hand pump and throw it out when you’re done...

My ‘73 has it. I’m certain they were stock.