conedodger

I've been hesitant to pull the brake lines apart. When you do anything in a restoration, you risk the part not being available and in the case of brake lines, you might have to make them. That is possible as the tools and tubes are available. In fact, I think I've had a rudimentary flaring tool in my stash since the 1980's. A remnant of working for my uncle at his gas station before going to school and learning to put people to sleep and keep them pain free while a sadistic bastard cuts them up. I guess that makes me complicit doesn't it! But yesterday, I watched a video of a guy named Francisco Gutierez as he put in new brake lines in his Z. I checked his source which I had to determine by looking at the box as he tried to dump the contents out. Turns out the tubes are available and they are $329.99. So I called and heard the sweet sound of her yelling "order up." Know your date and year of production. I think they have 3 different tubing sets available for the Z. Pretty sure Francisco is a member here. His channel is Panchos Garage. https://Classictube.com

As I was reading through this thread, I was thinking the very same thing that Alan ultimately said, This is a 'Body in White.' I have never heard of Nissan or Datsun supplying a body in white to anyone. Porsche does, but if you ask about a BIW they will tell you NLA... It follows, as Alan said, this adds credence to the BSR connection because you'd have to have some serious stones to get Nissan to supply a body in white. If this was stateside, I'd definitely consider it at that price. In fact, it might be on the low side. Never mind the BSR connection, it's a body in freakin' white! You can't do the paint and body on your project to bring it to this starting condition for that price!

Thx, will do...

zKars, Do you have a website or do you sell them in the classifieds? All of this delay putting the motor in is because I'm refinishing the engine compartment. I suppose I could have tried to clean it up, but since the old engine was out, I just started going after it a section at a time. I soon found out how tedious it is. I'd rather repaint the exterior anytime!

Well, I won. But it took more than a flat head and it pretty much destroyed the female side of the latch... Oh well!

Just ordered the ProtunerZ fuel rail. They must be in Canada as they charged me for Canada Post?

She's somewhat resistant to opening back up. I'm trying though. I have to get it off though because I plan to replace the female portion, heck, both the hood and firewall side with newly plated latches. Just have to find some...

And the female portion of the hood latch mechanism is NLA...

Oh crap! That's quite a cable price! $209!

Well, that's interesting. I've got to make sure the hood release cable is still available before I cut her little head off. I can probably make one using bicycle shift cable, but I'll check with MSA first.

I liked it before as it has the rear hatch and the triangle quarter windows. But, the big square grill was my one dissent. This rendering fixes that. Nice! I'd like to see the headlights tweeked to look more sugar scoopish as well.

I watched the 'vidya.' LOL! Neither of them really cleaned as well as I thought they might given the hype. Seafoam actually raised the compression by 9+% hot and 5% cold. Marvel Mystery oil lowered it hot and stayed the same cold. So, I guess Seafoam wins unless its just a transient effect...

You'd be less surprised if you looked in the other forums where it has been discussed. Nice car. Hope they build it.

I once put mine on a trailer with only starter torque. The only thing I worried about was every time the starter turned the engine over it would push the trailer forward and backward. I was afraid the ramps would come out of the hook... Stock starter is fine!

@jfa.series1 Got the heat shield today. All painted up nice too! Thx!

@duffymahoney, I'm thinking of using the AEM smart coils that were tested as the hottest in the test you cite on your thread. Where did you get your coil mount?

The Captain is correct. I think it will be much easier to fabricate a mount for the rail that makes the rail the proper distance...

One would think that the fuel rail would do the trick, but... The Bosch Green Giant injector goes in to the hole but the bore is too small for it to get any further than the entry. Essentially, using just the fuel rail would allow a big vacuum leak without doing this.

I'm at the point where I need to figure out how I will secure the injectors to the manifold. Since they aren't the original injectors, I can't use the original mounting method, what to do? I had a conversation with my architect son this morning about it, and he asked how it originally mounted. I found an image on the internet and he said, I can 3D model a 2 piece collar that uses the original mount to hold the injector in place. But first thing first, The injectors do not fit in the stock manifold hole. So, I went to my buddy Rex who is a machine shop manager and a Datsun guy, he will remachine the injector ports to accept the Green Giant injector. The injector has two grooves for o-rings where the injector body enters the intake. I will double them up to make sure there are no leaks.

Oh, I'm not being critical. I decided not to but only because I reexamined my goals for the car. I've owned this car since 1980. I autocrossed the living $^!# out of it at first and actually made a name for myself with it. When I decided to have an engine built, it occurred to me that Rebello was between work and home. I worked at Stanford University Medical Center and lived by Lake Tahoe. The car has had its original motor and then an L28 that I built, and then the original L24 that I rebuilt. All good motors but I thought if I was going to have someone else build a motor, it should be one of the names. I could have let Dave go wild and I originally wanted to but then I thought I want this to be a stockish motor with some extra power that maintains some street manners so my wife wouldn't mind getting in it and going to an event or two. So I started paring down what I would do to get it to, let's say 7/10ths. I'm all for what you're doing. Its got to be right for you...

Dave told me when I asked about coating, “it’s a 10/10ths thing. You don’t need it for a street engine but you could if you wanted to.”

Purchased one. thanks guys!

I found one!

I see Duffy’s point though. His car is a Series 1 that hid in his neighbors garage for 3 decades. He’s trying to maybe mimic stock?

Sorry no. Try again? Thanks!