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A/C Idler Pulley Rebuild


webdawg1

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Anyone out there have any plans on rebuilding/refurbishing the "A/C Idler Pulley" with a new bearing?? (Squeaking badly, Real loud during operation...etc...etc) If so I ran across a local source in my hometown (Columbus, GA) that has the bearings. Took the old idler pulley in to these guys and within about 4-5 minutes I had a brand new bearing to go in that puppy. Did some looking around in the microfiche before I went in to talk to these guys and it looks like the same pulley was used starting approx. Aug '73 (Fiche 59-12, Item #161) thru approx.1978. (Fiche 24-2 From Dec '74, Item #29) Have included a picture so everyone knows which pully I'm making reference to.

Thinking about doing a "How-To" if anybody's interested...Bearing was pretty reasonable...about $6.83 each...If anyone wants the P/N or their contact info let me know...

webdawg1

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  • 3 years later...

Was looking at this old thread, and thought it worthwhile to add this:

I have a 1978 280Z, built in January 1978. My pulley was made such that the bearing could not be removed. There were no snap rings. Apparently, at the factory the bearing was pushed in to its stop, and the metal on the installation side was compressed to retain the bearing in position. As a result, the inside diameter on that side of the bearing was significantly smaller than the outside diameter of the pulley. My bearing (also a 6302 w seals on both sides) was only squeaky, and had little play. I gently removed the seal with a miniature screwdriver cleaned the bearing well with mineral spirits, repacked the bearing, and replaced the seal. It is now quiet again. This was a bit cheaper than the $100 for a new pulley. Also, note that the pulley can be removed WITHOUT removing the entire idler assembly.

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very common bearing, # 6302 and easy replacement with vice, sockets etc.

I just wanted to share this info with you.

I think it is 6203(ID17mm width 23mm OD40mm )

**6302 is a different size. (OD 42mm 13mm width ID 15mm)

I found this at NAPA(#38038) for $32.

By the way, this NAPA ones weighs only 250g (about 1/2 weight of the original one)

It looks pretty good!

Esprist/One in the middle in the picture)

www.jdm-car-parts.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

My experience with these bearings is that some might look like that cannot be removed (driven out with a socket) but the really can. Look closely and place in a vise with a large socket and then start tapping. All that I have ever seen involved the snap ring, however I have seen those that were simply pressed in.

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I just wanted to share this info with you.

I think it is 6203(ID17mm width 23mm OD40mm )

**6302 is a different size. (OD 42mm 13mm width ID 15mm)

I found this at NAPA(#38038) for $32.

By the way, this NAPA ones weighs only 250g (about 1/2 weight of the original one)

It looks pretty good!

Esprist/One in the middle in the picture)

www.jdm-car-parts.com

I recently did this on my 71 dealer installed pulley. I removed the old bearing via hammer and socket. I bought the Gates pulley that NAPA sells and when I tried to tap out the bearingI sort of ruined it. DOH! But while it was out, I measured the outer race and it was 1.674" exaclty on the old bearing I beat out and the new gates bearing I ruined.

I went down to the parts store and picked up a new SS bearing and I am back in business. I will have to go to a machine shop to get it pressed in as I am without a vice for the time being.

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I just wanted to share this info with you.

I think it is 6203(ID17mm width 23mm OD40mm )

**6302 is a different size. (OD 42mm 13mm width ID 15mm)

I found this at NAPA(#38038) for $32.

By the way, this NAPA ones weighs only 250g (about 1/2 weight of the original one)

It looks pretty good!

Esprist/One in the middle in the picture)

www.jdm-car-parts.com

Sorry about the wrong bearing number. But yes, any bearing place will have it in stock. Most hardware stores and auto parts stores will have it. So I go directly to a bearing and seal warehouse to get them.

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  • 1 year later...

I just replaced the idler pulley bearing on my 1976 280Z. I got the bearing from Baxter Auto Parts ($9.29). Apparently it is a very commonly used bearing, the guy at the counter said he sells about 5 per week. The parts guys know it as the "203" bearing.

My pulley used the circlip to retain the bearing. The usual mix of fixtures on the vise, large hammer and large sockets worked to remove the bearing from the pulley and the bushing from the bearing, and for reinstallation. I attached some pictures for anyone who has a similar setup, in case they break a cold sweat like I did, thinking that they might have the bushing on the wrong side after the bearing was already pressed halfway in (I didn't). The pictures are labeled, the bearing shown is the old NTN 6203LB original with the new bearing's box. They are identical. The bushing head goes on the opposite side that the circlip does,and the pulley mounts with the bushing toward the engine. There is a spacer washer that goes between the bearing and dustcover on the front of the pulley to keep the nut from crushing the cover (I already had it installed before I thought to take pictures).

As someone has noted in another post (can't find it), the pulley can be removed from its mounting shaft without removing anything else, if you can squeeze your arm and hand down between the fan blades.

Thanks to sblake01 for the link to this thread, from my other post -

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40117&highlight=ac+idler

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Edited by Zed Head
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I just replaced the idler pulley bearing on my 1976 280Z. I got the bearing from Baxter Auto Parts ($9.29). Apparently it is a very commonly used bearing, the guy at the counter said he sells about 5 per week. The parts guys know it as the "203" bearing.

My pulley used the circlip to retain the bearing. The usual mix of fixtures on the vise, large hammer and large sockets worked to remove the bearing from the pulley and the bushing from the bearing, and for reinstallation. I attached some pictures for anyone who has a similar setup, in case they break a cold sweat like I did, thinking that they might have the bushing on the wrong side after the bearing was already pressed halfway in (I didn't). The pictures are labeled, the bearing shown is the old NTN 6203LB original with the new <a href="http://www.bcduplication.com" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0) ! important; text-decoration: none ! important; cursor: default ! important;">cd production online</a> box. They are identical. The bushing head goes on the opposite side that the circlip does,and the pulley mounts with the bushing toward the engine. There is a spacer washer that goes between the bearing and dustcover on the front of the pulley to keep the nut from crushing the cover (I already had it installed before I thought to take pictures).

As someone has noted in another post (can't find it), the pulley can be removed from its mounting shaft without removing anything else, if you can squeeze your arm and hand down between the fan blades.

Thanks to sblake01 for the link to this thread, from my other post -

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40117&highlight=ac+idler

Nice work - good pics ;)

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  • 9 years later...

The nut is a M10x1.25.

The pitch is fine compared to the normal nuts (M10x1.5) you will fined in a hardware store. You best bet would be an autoparts shop or machine shop. You could ask a garage is you can hunt through a nut and bolts tin.

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The other thing you might want to know is the nut flats are 14mm opposed to the standard M10x1.5 nuts with 17mm flats. 17mm should still clear the bearing.

The flat washer also has a small outside diameter OD: 16mm, ID: 10.2mm, thickness 2mm. The spring washer is normal size.

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Edited by EuroDat
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