Zedyone_kenobi

Great googly moogly. Guess what happens when you install a 160°F thermostat.. you run much much cooler. I use to be on the M on my T E M P guage, and now I am barely to the E. THAT IS 8 whole letters of the alphabet cooler!!! I would say that is a huge improvement. My car loves the temp. I am looking forward to seeing how the oil pressure reacts with a cooler running motor.

COTA is the main reason I am going!! To take my Z on COTA is a thing I cannot pass up. Just no way. Mike is ZCON going to have a professional photographer their to snap up some pics we can download later? If not maybe that would be a good idea. I would certainly pay for a quality high def photo. Man Almost a month, I am totally psyched!

Woody, I love your thread and pics, and your story is enthralling. A rolling restoration is always fun, as you get to experience the little improvements as you go. Keep your nose to the grindstone and keep pressing forward. Take the small victories to get you through the hard times. You may make me buy a set of 16" wheels.

I still want a close ratio 5 speed. My Z needs a 5th gear with the 3.90 rear diff in it. I think one day I will just happen to find one.

I always wondered if the redline water wetter is simply insulating the temp probe. I have no reason to doubt the product at all, but I am always leery of products in a bottle that promise things. I have never read a bad review of the stuff. But the conspiracy theorist in me always wondered..

Looking forward to it Mike. I agree, I have never overheated the car. But was thinking of giving it a try. It is an easy enough switch over. Hate disposing of coolant though. I remember the good old days of just dumping it on weeds....

I have been happily running a 190°F thermostat for a while now. I am about to head out on a road trip in June to Austin (ZCON yeeehaaa), and was thinking I should flush my coolant system to make sure it is tip top. I have an OEM Nissan 160° thermostat sitting in its box. I am concerned it may not be warm enough for the triple weber manifold. Anybody else run 160 thermostat?

Their is a green 73 for sale now with butterscotch color interior that is far more interesting to me than the silver car. That avocado green one is incredible.

This will be interesting to see where this car ends up. Only a collector would pay north of 15-20k for this car. It needs a TON of work to get into car show winning form. If you are already dead set on stripping the car and doing a full bare unibody blast and paint, then I suppose this is as good a car as any. But man, this aint gonna be cheap to get right.

In 2007 I had my first baby on the way. Wife and I just bought our first home togehter and it was ripe with a 3 car garage just waiting for me to fill it. My lovely pregnant wife said, if you are going to get project car, NOW is the time. That is all it took. I had been looking for a while and found one on an internet Z car club classifieds in North Carolina. I flew up their and met a nice man named Mark. He was into Datsuns and he had the silver 71 looking ready to sell when I got their. To this day I recall seeing that garage door open up with the Z looking out (Mark had a flare for the dramatic). I got to drive that that afternoon and was shocked at how well mannered the car was. After exactly 2.1 miles in a vintage Z I handed over my check for 10,000 dollars. Been spending money on it ever since.

I do not know what to say, but I am sorry. To be tasked with selling something he loved is not an easy proposition. I would think that he would want it to go to somebody who would love it like he did. This is the right place to get the sale started. People on this site are passionate about Z's. I hope this community can help you find a buyer. I know a few people looking at all times. I will wait for the pics and show them to my contacts.

I am first in line for OEM headlight covers should they decide to help a brother out.

You cannot put an email on BaT I have tried. They delete it very quickly. You can contact the seller. I tend to comment heavily on BaT on all Z and roadster stuff. I am SCRAPPYDO on their. I think that Z while old and unique will only reach high dollars if you get at least two preservationists bidding on it. To almost anybody else, this is a rotted car. It can be saved, but you would have to want to spend that kind of money. I mentioned it on Bat. You are only bidding on a VIN Tag. I think if you get the right bidders in their you can hit 30k. But if you are relying on just an average guy / gal who wants a Z car, this is not even close to the right car to buy. However news of early VIN cars get out quickly and if the right people find it... well this is certainly a very original car, albeit very rusty and very dented to hell car.

Well at any given RPM, a smaller choke will mean a higher velocity air stream to carry the fuel, so it will help everywhere to an extent. One thing you should check, and this will seem weird at first is the manifold you are running. And more specifically the temperature of that manifold. A manifold must be a proper temperature to keep the fuel from pooling inside of it. Now this is a secondary effect for sure, but having an engine at proper temperature is vital. Manufacturers go through great lenghts to ensure the manifold is up to temp quickly for this reason. What temp thermostat are you running? I recommend a 180-190. Probably not your cause, but manifold temperature is not insignificant.

Great clarification... 205 is still how wide the tire is, just now how wide the tread is. Minor but significant difference for sure! The 70% of width being height is still correct. I suppose that would be how wide the tire is unmounted as well. Because surely you can stretch it in or out.

These are Gold Panasports. This is a direction I am thinking. I am also considering getting my entire panasport done up like this: OR this, which I happen to like the best!

I did some reading on the air bypass. Yup, I concur with your explanation. New healthy carbs should not need them open at all. But what an ingenious thing to include on a carb to account for wear. I know for a fact my butterflies are set perfectly and I have a good idle and not even a hint of a transistion issue, but I have not checked for balance since I initially set them up. I may have a go to see how close they are now. The air bypass actually lowers the amount of vacuum signal seen on a flowmeter for those of you who are interested. So you take the highest side of each weber and lower it to the lowest side to ensure balance on both barrels. Then you have to match each carb to one another. Very simple and elegant. Love me some webers stuff. Just when you think you know all you need. More info keeps coming in.

Mike well done Great idea of course I want a set

The air bypass is a strange cookie. It is down stream of the butterflies correct? I have left all of mine closed since I have been tuning webers. I always thought that I never needed them. I am not entirely sure of their function.

Weber tuning update. I have not ordered DCOE 45's, but I would love to try. However I have decided to get my setup even more dialed in. Again, I have run the same setup untouched for 4 years now. Car starts and drives beautifully. I decided to keep my LM1 wideband out visible while driving lately and found out how incredibly pig rich I was at 3000 rpm 4th gear steady state cruising. I decided that this was a main jet issue not an idle jet issue (due to the rpm) and checked my settings. My air corrector was a 170 and my main jet was a 130. This combo gave me a 11:1 AFR at 3000 rpm. Far too rich for normal cruising. This was with whatever Etube that came with my 151 DCOE 40's. I forget, F9 I think. Anyway, I decided to go down to a 125 main jet and leave the air corrector alone. Car feels fine, if not a bit more crisp. At 3000 rpm in 4th gear I am getting 12.3-12.5 AFR. now. I have a set of 120's I will try this week. If I can get around 13:1 I will declare victory and call it done. I have a beautiful idle at 850-900 rpm at 13.4:1 AFR. The webers prove to be so tunable yet again. If I get these dead set and running perfectly I will have no other choice but to order 45's and start from scratch again.

I have a mildly built Datsun spirit L28 and I run DCOE 40's with 32mm chokes. My jetting is based on a 40mm carb, so I cannot comment on how the 45's would take to my setup. Your settings are the critical ones for getting the car running for sure. Idle jet, air corrector, main jet and Emulsion tube. Those the largest tuning knobs outside of just picking a carb (40 or 45 DCOE) and picking a choke size (30, 32, 34, 36, 38, etc) However, lets us take a step back. You own a street car I assume and this is a back up for a race engine, which means those settings may be great for a race engine but not for a street engine. The difference is actually quite important. A street engine spends a lot of time at idle and even more time in the midrange were you want a good amount of torque and response. Off idle response and the transistion from idle jets to the mains is a vitally important for a street car. Now for a race, car what matters is peak HP/torque and quite a lot of time is spent Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Idle quality, efficiency, smooth transition are not nearly as important. A weber is a wonderful thing. It can be tuned to hit many critical areas. But it usually has to compromise somewhere. Be mindful of the difference between a street engine and a race engine. A race engine will not be happy living in daily traffic. I would think that those settings will make lots of power, but may not produce a happy street car.

Mike, I know you run the hypo jets....Well you use to. Do you remember which hole you had it on 1,2,3 or 4 with one being the smallest?

That is so strange. You were lean and went up on your air corrector form 155 to 160. I would have thought that would have made you more lean. Go figure. I am juggling a few projects around these days. I may try the chockes as Mike suggested first. When you have to buy 6 of something, It always gets expensive I have an urge to tinker with the carbs. When I do I usually end up back to nearly where I started. Car runs great right now. My AFR at 3000 rpm cruise are too rich, but have some room to adjust that with my hypojet. I have not messed with my carbs in years, as the darn thing just scoots like a banshee when I give her the beans. I have no transition hesitation of any kind, and she pulls to redline. Maybe I am overthinking this. LOLOL

I am a huge fan of the side stripes....They really unify the car between the bumpers. With the new Datsun side emblems, they pop!

I have issues with leaving things alone. Blame it on a short attention span, or what ever you like, but I have an urge to try some 45 DCOE's on my Datsun Spirit L28 STR engine build. My 40 DCOE's are doing well, but at times I wonder just how much I am leaving on the table on the top end. I changed out my chokes in my 40's to 32mm and it really woke up the top end. I have read that driveability suffers from the larger opening on the low end. My only point of comparison is my Roadster. It is 2 liters with 45 DCOE's on it. It idles and runs VERY smoothly and revs to the moon. Granted that is 0.5Liters/ per cylinder. While my Z is .47 liters/ per cylinder. I guess that is close enough. Anybody have any experience with this. AS it is a VERY expensive thing to just 'try' for shits and giggles LOL.