five&dime

Love the early 50's-early 70's Chevy trucks!!! I did a 69 C10 a few years back. Can't wait to see pix Great looking Z btw. Love the 16" panasports on an S30

Wolfcreek are great!!! Todd is a superb guy. Here are some photos before and after of mine in my 510. He blasted everything and put new cad parts on He is very fast on turnaround as well.

I only refer to his "shipping charges"

I don't know how that guy sleeps at night.

One hell of a Z collection Steve!!!

I hope you all don't mind if I post an update on my non-Z in here (still Datsun related) Finishing up the aeroquip install with electric fuel pump. This is a tedious job. The 5 speed is also out for re-build. I hope to have the car back together by March. The annual East Coast 510 meet is at Summit Point May 1-3 so...... <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3244467677/" title="CRW_3515 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3256/3244467677_d7632c846e_b.jpg" width="1024" height="680" alt="CRW_3515" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/3245297202/" title="CRW_3507 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3324/3245297202_221c56af4c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="680" alt="CRW_3507" /></a>

My old neighbor has a morris minor just like yours sitting out in a field. He also has the world's largest MG collection. Over 120 MG's in the same field

Crazy rare in the US!!!

Google is your friend check out page 5 http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Ignitions/6420_instructions.pdf

Looking good. Clean up those wheels and keep up the good work. Welcome to the forum

I am not sure if this helps or not. I am currently trying to figure out what to do with my 510. I have been told by many including Todd at Wolfcreek that if you are using electronic ignition then you don't need a ballast resistor (internal or external). It is my understanding that the ballast resistor is there to protect the points. If you eliminate the points then you just need the electronic ignition box and the blaster 2 coil. I am going with a 1980 510 mathbox dizzy. it has the electronic control module on the side of the unit. I am also adding the MSD blaster 2. Todd and others said that's it. Good to go. Hope that helps some. Chart505. The PO just may not have known what to do as many don't. I believe this may be the reason my car has had some trouble as I currently have the Crane fireball XR700 with a Bosch brazilian made epoxy filled coil with internal ballast resistor. I have been told this is most likely my problem with eratic behavior.

Check out this thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31777 I know you said you checked your mounts, but how thorough was the diagnostic? This part may be your problem. It's a quote from my dad regarding his clunk. I also recall a retainer strap in the trans tunnel that holds the driveshaft or the diff in place. Could it be a failing strap or maybe it's just loose? I would imagine if so, it could cause some contact under extreme torque. "Zedyone.......I think you may be going in the wrong direction with your diff replacement. Check out what Yellow Jedi said....It wasn't his u-joints or diff mount...he replaced those twice....when he finally replaced all rear bushings the clunk disappeared! My guess is his problem was the four rear control arm bushings...remember the u-joints, driveshaft and diff mount aren't the only areas under stress in the rear. The wheels and tires are trying to twist the control arms apart! If the four large bushings aren't installed correctly or have been worn from high torque runs over the years, you can have metal to metal contact or severe movement on either side of the bushings. However like previosly mentioned in this thread, they must be installed properly. Loosen the large bolts on the forward and rearward side of the bushings then take the caps off (2 small bolts on rearward cap, diff bracket capping forward bushings) When finishing the job, tighten the large 4 bolts only when rear wheels are under weight of the car. Clunk elimination is part of Z ownership.....good luck!"

I had great luck talking with a guy at Avenue Nissan. I just asked for parts dept. I wish I had saved the guys name. he was able to give me all sorts of info and was extremely nice. He was the one who helped to get the correct part number for the other side I referred to earlier in the thread The number I called was 416-783-3303 Avenue Nissan in Toronto. Apparantly there are lots in stock in VanCouver

Very interesting. I assume my dads were actual NOS as they were just glued without staples and were in clear plastic Nissan wrapping that appeared to have quite a bit of age to it.

Ron, I believe these panels you refer to are older NOS. Yours look identical to the ones my dad found last year. We went to Va Beach last year to cut a Z into 4ths. My dad needed the front clip for his current resto. After the cutting we decided to have a look around. We saw two new 240z door panels in clear plastic with Nissan printed all over it in blue stuffed up in the ceiling of a shipping container. I believe my dad offered the guy $70 a pop and he said yes!!!!! The adhesive looks identical. The ones my dad bought were definately older as there were a few tiny blemishes just from age. I wouldn't have regret for paying the extra bit from Charlie though. They are beautiful and well worth $400 + or -

There are plenty of deals out there. I found my dad a perfect dash on the bay for $75 about a year ago. I had to stay up until 2 am on a work night to snipe it I couldn't believe it. It's still sitting in his den. I am not sure which car it's going in. Great score!!! Looks very nice

The other side part number is H0900 E4100 not H0901 E4100

Bryan. I grew up about 5 miles from Pence Nissan. My dad (Diseazd) still takes his Z32 their for service BTW Bryan, my dad says that he is glad Rolf actually once bought a 510

You can leave the brake lines in. I would just unclip them to see if you can pull them away from the firewall a bit so you can paint behind them. Then mask them. You can most likely pull the wiring harness loose and just lay it on the engine crossmember as I did. I just put it all in a bag and taped it up. If you pull the engine, radiator, carbs and all other loose bits, you can leave everything else in and mask it

How is it? How does everything fit? Was it pretty straight forward? Any photos? Also, can you take the bellhousing off the Z32 trans so they can weld on it? I would hope so for shipping reasons. I imagine this is a kick arse swap.

I forgot they changed that a few years back in CA. Sux for you West Coasters. Good for the environment I suppose though

Badass!!! Expensive but still.... anyone done this?? http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_L-MOTOR++300ZX+TRANS+KIT

Agreed^

I will provide details once my dad gets his part

Carl, my comment on the cost was due to the fact that there was far more poorly repaired collision damage than expected in this extremely rust free 71. As you can see in the resto thread, almost half the car has been replaced within the last year :)The body guy has put far more hours into this car than I could imagine. He has a porsche 356 spyder in there with something insane like 1000+ hours in block sanding. It's exquisite.