TomoHawk

Did anyone get their first issue of Grassroots Motorsports? I got one and there is a nice article on a 240Z. I saw a picture of a 350Z, but it's in an article about daily-drivers that you can take to the track. GRM is MUCH better than NissanSport. I don't think I'll be trashing the GRM.

I had a Yo-Yo that lights up like those wheels! You could never drive that car where the Z's go, or the wheels would fall apart, so what good is a trailer-queen like that?

Since you need to put the sensor in the exhaust gas stream close to the exhaust ports, it looks like you can just ignore all of the heater stuff, right? The heater is basically just for when the engine is cold. A lower-temperature sensor that could be put into the exhaust outlet would be great, but there isn't one. From the graphic on that web page in post #5, the 'knee' in the curve is pretty much the same for the different temperatures used, so you will have fun calibrating whatever kind of gauge you use.

there is a big difference in "affordable," as in between $150 and $25. You can make the circuit I posted for about $10 or so, and get a sensor for under $10. So if you could figure out how to get the proper signal from the sensor (with either electric heating or natural exhaust heat) then the DIY way would be great, and you'd get a nice feeling of accomplishment. So when those gauges are available for $10, I'll buy one.

While this seems simple enough, and the PC board is easy to draw and make, there is some question if we could use it for the S30 engines. The problem is to select the right kind of sensor. The Air-fuel sensors (Lambda sensors) look like they all use a heater, which is controlled by the circuits of a modern ECU. I suppose you could just hook up the heater wires to the 12V power supply and it'll get hot, but you need to maintain a certain temperature, which is the tricky part. If anyone can simplify the sensor hookup, please let us know.

I found this neat page about building your own meter. It uses dual LM3915s for extra resolution, but your are on your own to make one- no PC board is available, unless someone wants to draw one up. Also, you get to chose your own sensor. The only odd thing is the way it's calibrated and how you read it, but it looks like it could be useful. Pelican Technical Article: Building an In-Dash Air-Fuel Monitor

You should try reading the JTR book.

The alu inum drums are supposed to deform when braking, most likely in racing conditions.

Are the aluminum drums that important to you? You can get iron drums very cheaply, and they are an improvement, although not aluminum.

It seems very peculiar that this topic has come up just now. But whenever they were sold, I haven't seen any of those tribute cars anywhere. People are more interested on "nismo" 370Zs or something like that. Personally, I prefer to say that the 240Z has 50 years of history behind it...

As I figured... It would be just another advertisement for a 370Z, and only 3 years too late too ( if it's being sold now.) If their tribute car is supposed to be anything like a 240Z, they'll have to remove the leather seats, dash, door panels digital instruments air conditioning power windows carpeting adjustable interval wipers engine and about $10,000 of other luxury or convenience stuff

Wow, I've been telling people the 260Z was only made the one year, and people agree. Now I can get into 'discussions' about how they were actually made up until 1978 (1974 through 1978 is "five years".) If the 260Z was produced for "five years" you could call it the most successful model of the line?

I think that decal would look great on a novelty license plate. Does anyone know a way to make them on card? (for show-use only, of course

I kinda like the quilted vinyl covering on the transmission tunnel. It takes about a minute, and you only need a damp rage to clean it. All that carpet in the 280Z can be a bother after driving around on a warm dry day. You an vacuum it to perfection before a car show, but on the way it'll get covered with fresh dust...

Do you mean something like this?[ATTACH=CONFIG]60692[/ATTACH]

Nissan does a similar thing at the Rolex Grand Am at Mid Ohio, although I really wonder what their idea of "parade laps" are; when you only get one, and a duck could outrun you. Apparently, "antique cars" aren't capable of making the turns at Mid Ohio over 15 or 20 MPH.

I usually recommend you get some Z friends or experienced car-show goers, or a Z club, and give everyone paper & pencil to write own things you should look into (relative to your model, class or goal, NOT their idea of a "show car") and you later go through the sheets to see if you did miss something that should be looked into. Things like "needs a bigger stereo or video screens" would not be appropriate for a stock class 240Z, but might be for a super-modified 350Z, but all those eyes going over the car should probably catch at least several things you didn't, even if you should throw those ideas off the final list. I suppose you could use a judge's critique from a local, "A.M.M.Y." judged car show, but I really wonder if those kinds of judges know what's what on your specific car/model, unless all they are about is cleanliness.

I was thinking that too. Wiring it shut for the winter would be fine, but not for the summer. An electric solenoid to operate the fresh air door, maybe?

He's correct. the heating system on a 280Z relies on vacuum and vacuum pods to operate things. Unless the vacuum pods are broken, you need to check that all the hoses are in good condition and connected properly. For reference, I have used "fast Frog's vacuum diagram" as a guide. Even my radiator shop guy said it was better than what he could find on his computer system. BTW- fastwoman posted a writeup on how to service the vacuum selectorhttp://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/35521-refurbishing-hvac-vacuum-selector-valve-1978-280z-useful-info.html Wade- What kind of vacuum pods do you look for? I think I need one to operate the fresh air door on my '78. Please keep some notes on where you find any compatible units, as that will be a popular item one for these cars.

Yes, you have the idea right; some kind of simple OBD output, and air-fuel ratio would be nice, if it is so equipped. I already started looking for a Bluetooth OBD adapter for other purposes/vehicles. eBay has them, cheap. BTW- after I got the car, I took it to the e-check station to see what condition it was in, and the tech guy couldn't find the OBD port! An older guy stepped in to explain the car was too old, and exempt. It might be fun to take this "antique" car with "OBD" to a service station, have them scan it, and then drive away after they tell you that the ECU is totally dead and there's no way the engine should be running!

One question : Would it be possible to include an OBD interface to this homebrew controller, or is it a totally different can of worms? I get the feeling that such a thing is a part of a totally digital controller.

Now there's your secret weed compartment, not the big tool bins behind the seats.

That picture is what made me ask about this, thank you.

Yes, the factory AAR should be replaced with something, even a solenoid-operated valve. BTW- I've got a small box of 324s and 741s in the drawer still, but I haven't breadboarded anything since college.

I think those were on most GM cars from the 80s. Thanks for the pictures.