TomoHawk

For reference, the Altima cables look like this one. Note the type of the clamp, which can be loosened many times without damage. It's not the usual lead clamp, but a metal wrap-around design, that is much smaller. If you get the right ones, ou can also attach several grounds or accessory feeds. I noticed that other models of Nissan, like the Quest minivan, as well as some other Japanese imports use the same stylr of clamp. I assume the cable would be longer for the minivan? That could be an advantage. Also, the ones I saw at the JY were oxidized or even corroded. Do you think those could be cleaned up? $6 per cable at the JY might be better than $40 each from the dealer or online sources. I'm wondering if the clamps are available for different size battery posts? Usually the pos. and neg. posts are different sizes to prevent connecting it backward. This is a ground cable with the tab for a chassis connection.

I will have to remember to take a camera first!

You could try to 'calibrate' your gauge, by putting the vehicle on level ground, and adding gas in measured amounts (such as 1 gallon or 5 liters at a time) to the empty tank, and noting the gauge after it settles.

There are still rooms available at every hotel, motel, and Inn in the area (Mansfield, Gilion, Mt. Gilead) for $50 - $99 a night. I'll see you there Sunday! I'll take a CZCC shirt, but I usually have a shirt with the Datsun logo on it.

With the serial number 00008, I was expecting a dyno test of a restored car/engine or something like that..

Even with the advice BRAAP posted on HybridZ (and other L28 experts,) I get people insisting that insist I can get BIG increases in "HPs" by putting on a big throttle body, OR a bigger cam, OR headers, even after how you explain how something like the L28 engine is already at maximum performance as it was designed, and the only increase you could get is by perfecting the mechanicals or the FI parts & electronics. So you just smile and let people offer their "advice..."

That must be why my windows rattle a little when they are up- the lower part is getting a little loose inside the door. Is it difficult to get the upper window frame out without taking the door panel off?

Higuys, The annual vintage races are coming up in a few weeks at the MidOhio sportscar course in central Ohio June 28 - 30, 2013 This year's featured marque is "American Muscle" but those guys are there every year... The thing that would interest people like you all, would be the Car Corral for the S30s/roadsters, and the hospitality tent that the Columbus guys put up with the grill, refreshments, and a great view of Pit Road, and the opportunity to show off your car during the lunch break when they do show-laps. Also, there will be the "2Bad Challenge" with BMW/Alphas/Datsuns, and the BMWs want to win bad this year because the Datsuns always win. I'm getting a room nearby and I'm planning on going for all three days; Friday I go for recon purposes (freebies, camera spots, 'famous racers'/autographs, and girls ), Saturday there is the hospitality tent and qualifying with some racing and girls, and Sunday is all racing, with a judged car show and more freebies & girls. Black Gold Man is meeting us there for sure on Sunday, but you all are invited.

I mean some who selflessly put in his whole professional experience, talent and time to do a thorough and complete job, with some options, not just the minimum to get by.

Oh- I just got my "Flameout" fire extinguishers (a sale on two bottles.) It's the "one liter" size, but looks like a two LB. bottle. I 'll have to find a good cage for it. Flameout - A Revolutionary New Foam Fire Extinguisher Don't you just love the new URL parser? ^^

If it's hot weather, I'll freeze my gallon overnight. That way I have an 'ice cold drink' available all day long.

I think I will make a mount that attaches to the studs of the right rear seatbelt retractor. It might be a bit floppy, but the fire extinguisher will at least be out from underfoot or crowded behind the seat (where I keep the 2Gal water jug.)

Then my stuff is probably working just fine. Aside from an occasional treatment of the electrical connectors, nothing more is necessary. "ll keep the box for show or if I go to to a race track.

Thanks EuroDat, for sharing your technique. Unfortunately, my "seat" must be less sensiive than yours, so I can't really tell any difference when small resistance changes are made. I would need to some a technique that is more quantitatve or uses something you can measure- like dynomometer tests. Large changes are obvious, as the engine is over-rich and gets less smooth..

If only we could get someone like you interested in designing a beter cylinder head for the L28 engine...

It's quite possible that the PO tried to wire the ignition like the points-style engines had back then, not knowing the car was totally different with the points-less electronic system. From what I remember, we could do that stuff without looking at the wiring diagrams (at least on the Fords) and when the points-less distributors cameout, it was a headache to figure out. Even the parts guys seemed confused because they wanted to sell you points, condenser, AND a ballast resistor, as it was just the usual thing to do.

I was able to rebuild mine (for the 280Z) a few yers ago. I had to buy 1 or 2 other eBay units to get the parts I needed (the mast and plastic pushrod) and I used alternator brushes to get the motor to run. I glued the brushes in and soldered the braid from the brush to the arm. I did clean and 'polish' as much as possible to remove the gunk and oxidation. It was important to clean & lubricate things like the pushrod and the the motor's rotating points, and to put the case together just right, or the motor didn't work (don't pinch the motor.)

For the common vintage stuff, the Hemmings catalog and periodicals are very useful. Otherwise, I commonly see the metal valve-extractor caps at the AP store, which is why the suggestion for buying "valve caps" a the AP store was made (because the person replying didn't really understand you wanted the OLD-style ones.) I usually buy the ones with the chrome sleeve and the dinky hromed cap for local use/show. FWIW, I remember seeing these all the time way back in the 70s. I remember the guys tossing the rubber parts because they were annoying and occasionally fell off anyway, so the other 2 or 3 came off so they all matched. Back then, if you had a few of the valve-extrator caps, they weren't there for long, if you parked the car much in public places...

You can buy those separately. See you Nissan dealer, or check the parts suppliers. Also check that the bal-bearings inside and the frame that hold them is in good condition.

Does it matter which ground hole you use on the module?

On the 1978, the blue wire is for the tachometer and ECU stuff, and the black-white one is +12V

I was just wondering if anyone can tell us, what would or might happen if you only discconected the ignition box and didn't disconnect any of the wires from the ignition coil?

For reference, I will submit what the expert on HybridZ said about using this diagnising gadget:

You should also read the turbo-swap installation stuff on HybridZ. They have an evening group in the chatroom every night, and you could probably get most of your initial questions answered quickly.

In the second photo, the wires are coming out where the vacuum line for the ventilation controls should be. It doesn't looks like those wires are colored (they look white) so I would say that they are something that the PO put in. Follow them inside to see what they connet to.