TomoHawk

Not only that, but the trouble of changing the injectors.

If the stuff is so good, how come you can't get it at the local AP stores? I checked them all (Advance, Autozone, Oreilly's) but NAPA.

So you're saying we shouldn't bother with the 99-cent bottles of (whatever) you get at the discount store that's labeled "Fuel Injection System Cleaner?"

I didn't see those on my '78 when the throttle was off.

I can see it (#15) in the graphic, but it doesn't tell you where to look on the engine. It should be a no-brainer diagram to draw ( vacuum advance port & tube, T-fitting to canister, FPR vac port & tube, etc.) It's probably that one picture of all the engine hoses & tubes, but that picture is hard to make out

Thanks Bruce. That's the one I'm using.

When my engine was getting repaired, I ordered the printed books, How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine, and How to Modify Your Nissan and Datsun OHC Engine. while reading the descriptions of the books, I discovered that they were also available for the Kindle program, so I got the first book in digital form. I like having digital versions of books or documents because the computer can quickly search for a word or phrase, and you can store many, many books on even the smallest of flash drives or a CD or DVD. I still appreciate having printed books because you have the pleasure of browsing the pages without the limitations of screen resolution, battery longevity, fan noise, accidentally scrolling 20 pages when you only want to zoom on something, or other digital/electronic uisances. That is, unless you have a 27 inch computer screen, but you can't really hold that on your lap either.

Does any one know the correct/factory location of the vacuum port for the distributor advance for the L28E engine? It's not detailed in any of the reference material I have.

I looked into all the vacuum ports on the intake manifold, and tested each. The plenum port all had a constant draw on them, making them unsuitable for the distributor vacuum advance. That port was connected to the FPR only. It was (PO had it) connected with a Tee fitting to both the FPR and the distributor! The two ports on the BCDD were then checked- one was blocked with gunk and had no vacuum at all, even when you give the throttle a jolt. The other was not blocked, and had vacuum when you move the throttle, so I connected that to the distributor. I think I will cut off & block off the bad BCDD vac port with JB Weld so it doesn't confuse things again. Using the timing light, I confirmed that everything worked right. Surprisingly, a small movement of the throttle had a big affect on the timing advance- from 8 degrees to about 30! I haven't tried it on the highway, only on some local streets.

If you don't break off the legs, then the stock rivets are very re-usable. You only need to get lots of the plastic pins because it's not possible to replicate them by hand. That leaves you with a rivet that has a little ugly pin sticking up or showing its ugly little head. Rivets with a large head that cover the entire rivet body makes it look much nicer, as long as you paint it properly or get an exact match between the color and the panel.

more or less... The original rivets have good strength and a correct design to hold the panels in place, but the home-made pins stick out and are unsightly. You also have to hand-paint the heads after you insert them, and it never matches the finish of the panel. Modern rivets are designed to be more attractive and are reusable. You can pre-paint them to match the panel without the paint coming off as you press the head in.

What we really need is a 5.2mm or 13/64 inch rivet. "Compatible" rivets just won't work, and "fuzzy" rivets are too sloppy and won't hold the panel right. This was the last attempt to get 5mm rivets from an asian vendor: If the rivet body would fit the 5mm hole, these would be perfect. This is the look I want to achieve for the rivet head: but with the usual long split bottom.

I like the smooth look of the rivets, just without the pin. The rivets with the screw-in pins just look too cheap for a GT car, and should only be used in places where the part will be attached or removed relatively often- not what you do with the rear headlIner cover or1/4 window frames. The problem we have is that the hole is 5mm which is between 3/16 ad 1/4 inches, so you have to look around a lot for rivets, and I prefer to not drill out the holes- that invites rust.

Internet Information is contradictory; one source states port vacuum is used, another (datsunzgarage) says L engines use manifold vacuum... I prefer what I learned, to use ported vacuum, but the hose fittings are now missing. Otherwise, I'm correct in using the manifold vacuum for the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

Higuys- I was checking the vacuum advance to the distributor, because the BCDD was removed a few years ago, and the hole was capped. We had the vacuum advance hooked up to the plate that covered the BCDD hole and I wasn't getting any vacuum advance. I tried moving the vacuum advance hose to a T connector that was connected to the intake manifold plenum and FPR, and I suddenly got 40 degrees advance! That plus the idle went up to 1600 RPM. If I disconnect the vac advance and plug the hose, the idle goes way down to about normal. Something isn't connected right, obviously. Is there a diagram that shows the connection to the distributor, the FPR, and where it's supposed to connect to the intake manifold? I can't find anything in the FSM showing vacuum lines and the distributor. thxZ

There have been some improvements in the designs of the expanding shank plastic rivets used on automobiles, so I looked on eBoo to see if there was something that was nicer than the rivets that were stock on the Datsun. I searched eBum for push rivet 5mm car, and there were indeed some rivets with an oversized head that didn't have the unsightly dot in the middle (judges have suggested I replace the stock rivets with some that had a smooth head.) I agree with them only because the modern push-rivets have a pin with a large head you can pull out to remove the rivet body (and not have to make new pins!) The vendors I bought rivets from were all Asian vendors. The problem with these people is that they have NO idea how to measure rivet body diameter! I bought 5mm "diameter" rivets from two vendors and neither was correct! In both orders I received rivets that would only fit an 8mm hole- which you won't find anywhere on the S30 except on the engine. So my question would be: Does anyone have a source for 5mm expanding shank rivet with a large head that actually fits the 5mm hole?

Will that work on a mixed set of lamps (LED and filament?) I didn't see the usual ground terminal. I'm satisfied with the flasher unit I have, so will your handle the hazard lamps? That's the only one still need.

Thanks.

I already have that, but I was looking for the original images, not a compilation of them, to make some new customized originals. Contact with the author of those graphics would probably be best. The problem was the white area isn't really white, but slightly off-white. Inverting the colors was an improvement to make the black background truly black- something you could work with. You'll still have to draw the circular outline of the face, regardless. There aren't any other overlays?

I'll be asking some more questions probably, and watching this thread until spring, because I would like to install the module over the winter.

I bought a 5-pack of 3-pin weatherseal connectors for the turn signals, but the kid used them for the headlamp connections- they worked out well anyway. I think we can get the headlamp buckets out when we are ready to put in some fog lamps or driving lamps, and we could tap into the wires at that point to power relays.

I just installed a 4-chip LED festoon bulb in the '97 and that darned thing just lights up the whole cabin! Granted, the clear plastic cover lets all that light get around the cabin, but it's better than the old filament bulb, although I may look for the same thing in warm white some time.

The vacuum I finally purchased was the Black & Decker PAD1200 flex vac. It has a 12ft power wire, a 4 foot hose, an easily-emptied dirt compartment (it's a "bagless" device) and the handle houses part of the hose, which has one of the attachments already on it, and you don't even need to detach it to vacuum. It looks bigger than it actually is. There is also a battery-powered version, the FHV1200.

I recently became aware of some wheel hub extenders/adapters that will convert the 4-bolt hubs to 5-bolt hubs. They are basically two disks; the first one has 4 holes and bolts to the original hub, and the second disk has the 5 new studs on it.

Then I'll rig up a short tube stuffed with cotton. that should be about as good as a breather, and is easily made.