TomoHawk

I'm sure there is a way to make up some clear decals with white lettering to replace the old fuse labels.

If you did want to mount several relays for the lamps, what is there that looks neat and ordered? I thought you might be able to mount some to a piece of aluminium angle in the area where the carbon can used to be. I have a fuse/relay block from an Altima (it was the right size to fit inside the carbon canister mount) but it's a mess of 20ga. wires and the 4-pin relays are odd.

I also got a terminal crimper for the tail lamp connections. My dad will go mad when I tell him I paid only $8 (from China) for the same crimper he paid $50 for at an airshow. Obviously, mine isn't FAA approved... Well, off to NAPA for some more 14gauge wire...

That is a good use for the screw-on snaps. If not below the armrest, then what about forward between the armrest ad the window handle? I will measure that tomorrow.

Yes, I suppose you could make a U-shaped, flat metal frame and stretch some mesh around it, with two holes to fit the armest screws. How much vertical room is there beneath the armrest? Don't forget the door handle is down there. This one uses screws or rivets to attach to a door panel.

Is it possible? the 280Zed doesn't have them in stock form, but Personally, I cold use them so I wouldn't have to lay my race entry tickets, toll ticket, receipts, or any other loose papers on the passenger seat. I would suppose so; you just sew, glue, staple or otherwise attach a bit of vinyl or some flexible material with an elastic band at the top, with enough gathered material so you can put your map in the pocket. Is there such a thing as an add-on pocket, in either cloth/vinyl or rigid plastic? My DD has plastic bins on the doors where I keep some tools or rags/gloves.

Oops, sorry- a typo. Yes, that's the one, but I will need a few more of the 2 pin and 3 pin sets for my needs.

I ordered the DEUTSCH DT KIT #1 WITH CRIMP TOOL BLACK 2,3,4 POS

There are a bunch of YouTube videos for the DT series connectors to educate you.

Can you post a link to the crimper? Is the the fancy crimper for the blade contacts? They seem very affordable. If you are considering purchasing one, remember to buy the pins as they are not included. OH- the solid pins is probably what we'd use, and the crimper for that probably looks like the cheap one you can get about anywhere.

Can you get those big rubber grommets? I'll bet others would be interested to get the bucket sealed up again, after the little rubber seal falls away. I thought my bucket wires were of slightly different sizes too. The main harness wires were definitely heavier, I'd say about 14 gauge, or maybe 12. will that connector fit an H4 bulb too? It would really simplify an H4 upgrade.

I would just use the chisel blade in the Xacto knife. BTW, I didn't take contacts out of the Ford oxygen sensor. I just cut the connector off with a bit of wire on each part. those connectors probably aren't meant to be used more than once- I couldn't get it back together! The pins kept bending.

I took out the headlamp wiring from the buckets to the harness and peeled off the cover. What I found inside was 18 gauge wire! the insulation looked thicker tho. Here is an informative chart comparing wire gauge, current requirement and length.

That would work, and you'll still need to funnel it out the back or under the car.

OK, I can now confirm that the cycleterminal YC2506 6 pin connector does, in fact, fit the taillamp harness connector on my 280Z. I'll be ordering another soon, and probably a 6 or 8 pin connector set to clean up the mess behind the center console. I just wish I could straighten out the rats nest of wiring behind there. Wasn't it all straight runs of wire bundles in the beginning? I suppose I could use the special extraction tool to get the pins out and just transfer them to the new connector shells, after unmessifying the tangles.

I was looking for some Bosch relays on eBoo, and I saw something interesting: "Bosch style" relays and connectors. Would you say they are the same, as "Bosch style" refers to the Bosch pinout, or is it some kind of selling jargon to pass off some inferior product? I would like to trust some quality STST relays for my headlamps, since there is really no way to design in a failsafe.

Do you mean to put a thin line of seam sealer to create some kind of channel? The OP wanted to extend the gutter to the bottom so it drains directly out of the shelf, and the only thing I can think of is to use a bit of square plastic tubing.

I would use a separate circuit for the 100W lamps, but the control would be through the high beam line and one control switch in the cabin.

Would it be a good idea to put in a small drain hole with a tube next to the weatherstrip?

Yeah, I thought I might be over-estimating the current requirement of the headlamps. I also have a set of 100W Cibie driving lamps I think I will mount eventually (actually they have 55W bulbs, but I think I will go to 100W.)

I'm leaning towards the Weather Pak 4 pin square connector. I just have to figure out who has my fancy crimp tool.

If you go the same connector the 240Z uses for the headlamp harness, would it make sense to then buy th MSA headlamp relay kit, and avoid all the fabrication?

Since you can't get the original Yazaki connectors, I searched for some well-designed connectors/pigtails that are available today. SummitRacing lists some electrical harnesses and adapters, but no pigtails or connectors. The best connectors I found were WeatherPack connectors, which are sealed, interlocking, and made for different gauge wiring. I chose 12Ga., to handle the current for headlamps (20A total.) Weather Pack 3 Pin Sealed Connector Kit 12-10 GA If there are suitable alternatives, please mention them! BTW- Yazaki has a website: http://connectors-catalog.sys.yzk.co.jp/ but I didn't see anything familiar to S30 there.

I got my 6-position MP6N connector from cycleterminal. It looks fairly similar to the tail lamp connector, but I'll have to go out to the car to check it, maybe Friday.) If it's still not the same connector, I can use it for the center console. Why did Nissan need all those smaller connectors (and several pairs of bullet connectors) for the switches, and the lamps (shifter, ash tray) when they could have combined it all together? It's probably some kind of production simplification thing.

Well, since there really is no "plug-and-play" actuality for the '78, you are modifying the stock wiring nonetheless, so you may as well do it right or in an improved way. OTOH- if you are adding some lamps, like fog lamps or driving lamps, that second (unused) fuse would come in handy.