TomoHawk

When you talk about a 'template' or stencil, I think of crates of Army stuff with those letters that look like they're all 'broken up.' I'm not sure you could use a stencil to print labels unless it's done via silkscreen transfer. what about a laser-printed, or etched, foil label? Is there such a thing? "Burning" the characters in would be more permanent & durable IMO, no? thx

Some day --I'LL-- figure out a way to reverse rust on body panels so the floorpans, wings, etc. won't rust away. Maybe even wiring. It's one of the two things Datsun didn't address: better wiring & connectors metal coatings to preventrust How much do you worry about rusting body panels today? thx

I'll bet they had more time on the history for the American cars, than the 240z. Maybe because of the 'mystery' of the Z-car History, or because it's "not an AMERICAN car." I'll have to dig up my tape and watch the show again. I really don't care for any of the contemporary imports, especially Japanese. But for what it is, the Zs are the only imports I have respect and admiration for- which is why I have one. It's too bad the American designers & engineers were too closed-minded to come up with something like it on their own.

I think the way the numbers weere put on the foil labels were more like the way the P-touch stuff works. I would go to a laminator or a sign shop and ask them if they can help. I would consider laminating the label or something like that, so the writing doesn't get rubbed off. I lost the niumber off my AFM that way.

What's wrong with that tape?

Can you race other people over the Internet with that? I couldn't tell... thx

I assume you mean for the radiator hoses. Do thet make small diameter high-pressure hose for vacuum and fuel system? thx

Once again it's time to think about armchair racing for the winter.... This time I'd like to ask for suggestions on what program, or software, to use on a PC that features 1st gen Zed(s). I know some of you guys have those game boxes, but we need a COMMON PLATFORM, so I'm going with the PC, since (I assume) PCs all have some kind of an Internet connection. I don't want to buy a game box, as I'd rather buy parts for the Z, but software can be gotten cheaply.

It's nice to hear from you, that you consider our little group worthy of such a great opportunity. However, I was dissapointed the 240Z show. these cars weren't meant for "drag racing" without a V8 engine swap! And yet the whole show focuses on how hard and how fast these people can get the car to go down the strip. I realistically expected the 30+year-old rear axles to break! I'm surprised they got all that work done in the first place. I think it would have been more appropriate to to go to a road-race track, and have have Mr. Morton ( who was featured on the show as a 240Z racing 'expert') to first drive both cars to size-up the track, then have the teams race there several laps, or even several heats of 2-3 laps, for the prize. The other show I saw involved cars more suited to drag-racing, like the El-Camino vs. Ranchero show. I wouldn't even drag-race my 280Z! But I'd definitely take it road racing. My boy LOVES taking a street corner at 35 MPH!

"Speed on Tweed"... British drug junkies? God bless Mother England. cheers,

Funny!.... not Actually, I've seen it used when it was in-vogue many years ago (80's?) and I think once at a car cruise last summer, which is why I didn't just throw it all away. Apart from draining ALL the coolant to get the radiator hoses off, and never mind what some second-rate service techie would do to your perfectly smooth wrap-job if you drop it off for service... On the other hand, ALL the OE rubber hoses & such under the hood are hard, have "scales" and/or cracking, and some of the plastic hose holders are cracked or missing, so I'm planning on replacing those, and I might as well protect them from rubbing/scuffing. Assuming I use the shiny stuff in the right places and in the right way. thx

I have a box of that nickel-plated faux- braided hose covering with the cheap red-colored plastic clamp covers. I would like to know if others have any experiences with the covering, like how it looked, and what things to cover. An alternative to the cheap red clamp covers sounds good. My suggestions: radiator hoses fuel lines in & out ??? thx

IMO, The plastic loom tube is great to hold a big bunch of wires (like headlight wiring) together like you said, and you can put clamps or ties on it and not worry about crushing, but I think that water can get in too easy, and in some places it's way too loose or cheap, like on top of the engine, where you want minimal 'stuff.' There, I'd rather wrap 2 or 3 wires with tape, instead of loom. thx

Does that stuff get 'hard'? Wouldn't that be bad, because you couldn't bend it, or move it away while working in the area? I like 'hockey tape.' moisture doesn't bother it, and it leaves no residue. It's also clear, and I don't know if it'll get brittle.

It looks like a vintage Mustang grille, which is cheaper from an aftermarket supplier. Or you can get a grille material and make your own.

I saw one of those l.e.d. replacements that had only ONE l.e.d. on the plug, instead of the usual 2 or 3. It was a special "12-volt" l.e.d

A friend of mine has a baby, and that's somethinh he ( the baby) said to me when I drove up in the Zed...

Ooowlrb gllb. mmmm mmmmm mmmmm mmmm mmmm eeeeeeAAAAAAA!! Can you translate that, Will

The l.e.d. replacements just plug in where the bulbs were. You would just pull out the bulbs and plug in the l.e.d. Don't you have any ricer shops in your area? They should be able to get these replacement units for you straight away. About the only GOOD thing the ricers have to offer. cheers,

It would be neat if somebody could make moulds ofthe cenyter console, heater facia. You could make it in parts so you could customize the configuration.

I've seen many new Cadillacs with l.e.d. brake lights. At first they surprise you because instead of 'powering up' like a bulb does, they go instantly on, like a strobe light. I was tempted to panic-brake (once it was on the freeway), but I usually don't follow that close and I had time to get used to the new stuff. I'd expect to see them everywhere after a while.

Tommo- the l.e.ds for the dash have bases so they directly replace the bulbs there (194s?) No need to adapt anything- just remove the old plugs, and plug in the leds. _IF_ you can get the bulbs out.

AFAIK, All the pieces in my linkage were steel. I took everything apart, except the pivots (oops?) and I used the teflon washers on the connecting pins, under the c-clips to replace the shims that was worn away & rusted. They happened to be the right thickness, and shouldn't rust. Walter- I was referring to brushless motors as magnet-less because that's how Daniel was referring to them. I have one of those too, in one of my r/c boats. I like the simplicity of brushed PM motors.

What was done to rebuild your motor? Did you use the same plastic bag to protect your motor? thx