TomoHawk

Right. It's the design of the I.C. engine that needs more work. If you want to, you could also say that all those I.C. engines are busy helping global warming with all those radiators doing their thing and dumping all the heat the engine is creating! Why not come up with an I.C engine that generates no heat? (yeah, right) :lick:thxZ

IMO, the ethanol thing isn't going to do anything about global warming. No matter what fuel you put into your internal-combustion engine, you're still going to get out smoke, soot and CO2! No mater what, it's still the same dirty design that was invented in the 1960s. It's just a way to keep Detroit from closing down by allowing them to make the same dirty, inefficient wngines that people want to satify their idea that they need a car with 300 HP to go 100 MPH down the local freeway. A Honda hybrid, OTOH, can get 53 MPG, but at 59 MPH. Fusion? Nuclear power? We might as well have flying cars! :eek: Try cars that run on hydrogen, or no fuel at all, like solar.

I was just thinking about the volour of the heater panel screws ( on my 280Z.) I was going to paint them the same colour as the dash cap so they will blend in.

Wood screws, sheet-metal screws; same thing to me. It's basically a #8 or #10 flathead phillips screw.

AFAICT, those screws are like 1/2", #10 wood screws, but with a raised phillips head. They should not be too difficult to find. Installing them andgetting the dask cap underneath with out chipping the paint is another matter tho. :surprised

Are you planning on returning the stuff people sent to you? thxZ

You need to look into your 's laws on the emisions converter. Where I live, if the car came with one, you can't take it off, unless to replace it, and a muffler shop absolutely won't take off a good one. In fact, muffler shops local to me won't even work on the exhaust system if the car is missing the converter.

I have never made a comment in the Boobs topic... OTOH, it looks like Full_House doesn't speak much English, so his posts aren't as verbal as other's. And it seems he comes up with the same conclusions 30 or 40 posts after something is said ( like where the website for the 2008 ZCCA convention is, andjust discovered a day ago.) thxZ

Thanks for the part #. RockAuto doesn't have it, but maybe Autozone will. thxZ

I am just concerned with the ground connections between things like the engine & body, trans & body, etc. Those things which could be isolated with rubber bushings. I usually do take my Dremel with a wire brush to any exposed connectors that don't look like they would make a good ground, and shine them up a little.

Yeah, I forget the number. I was thinking of the Maxima trans. I was going to add some ground wires to the engine to improve the electricals, and the transmission is one thing to get better grounded. thxZ

Are you using separate circuits for the headlamps and the running lamps/gauges? Putting all those lights on one circuit could definitely blow a fuse. Datsun separated them for a reason on the 280Z, and even had a fuse link for the headlamp circuit and a separate fuse for each lamp. You can put some other low-power stuff on the same circuit as the running lamps, but be careful there even. thxZ

On my 280Z, the trans (Jatco 3NL41B) will only kickdown occasionally under high vacuum conditions (at any speed), and I've never heard the kickdown solenoid clicking, so I checked it out. BTW- the trans was totally 'rebuilt' a couple years ago, and only has about 2,000 niles on it since. I checked the voltage at the switch: 12.2 volts, which is just a hair less than the battery. Then I put a shunt wire direct from the battery to the solenoid wire where the switch is on the gas pedal. Still no solenoid click. If the kickdown solenoid does work, then the only thing I can think of is that the solenoid doesn't have a god ground. Since I can't get under the car, I will have to get it to the trans shop and have the guy check the solenoid. Unless there is something else to try. thxZ

The convention hotel is just straight up I-77 at I-480, and only the car show is in Berea. Some locals are just going to commute every day ( after getting 3 hours of sleep.)

For those who have procrastinated in getting registered, there already about 70 people signed up, and some of them have even paid! :tapemouth So if you are interested in the judged show or hot-lapping, it would be advisable to get registered and pay up, because you might lose your spot, and the fees are helping to get great goodie-bag stuff, chartered busses, party food, and other great stuff! :laugh: thxZ

Dude, You are so close to Cleveburg that you could easily make it for the convention (Sep. 28 - Oct.3) Check my signature for the link.We also have lots of Z drivers in Northern Ohio, if you are interested in getting hooked up (http://www.clevelandzclub.com )

Did you remove all the bumpers, grilles, mouldings, lights, and etc. from your car before doing the painting?

My 280Z was the same color originally, ( I think so, because the number rubbed off the decal) then the PO painted it a corvette color, "Teal Green" ehatever that is, but I can't find it on any color charts. I don't think the painter bothered to sand the car before painting either (my magnets pull big flakes of paint off. ) Nice car tho.

Those things wouldn't last one winter on the streets in Cleveland, OH. :tapemouth

I did finally build myself a de-rusting setup, and it really works! I used a steel bolt as the anode, but I didn't have any copper wire for the connections. I put it all in an empty 1 gal windsheild washer fluid bottle which had the top half cut off & some notches for a cross-support. I found a 12V power adapter to use for the power supply, and hooked it all up to de-rust some heater hose holders. The 150mA power dapter was enough to do the small part. The only thing I had a problem with was the black stuff left on the part after de-rusting. What have others done to remove the black stuff and get the part shiney- or clean- looking? thxZ

For bracket drag racing, How are you to determine what your dial-in should be? Do you get a chance to go down the track before racing begins? thxZ

Use the standard method for figuring MPG: 1. fill the tank, and mark down the starting odometer reading 2. drive at least 1/2 tank 3. fill the tank again, and mark down the ending odometer reading calculate the difference in miles, and divide by the gas to fill the tank read this: wikiHow page

What are you looking at wit hthe borescope? just the piston-tops?

Isn't that pretty much the same a SeaFoam? How can you tell things are decarbonized Also, do think it would hgurt if you de-carbonized twice or twice in one summer (like once a month)? thxZ

I notice a raw fuel smell in the exhaust on my 280Z, and after checking all kinds of things, it ended up being a broken conductor in a spark plug wire! I replaced that wire and now there's no fuel smell, the engine idles more smoothly, the fuel gauge moves slower, and I'll figure out the MPG later. thxZ