AZ-240z

Hi Ken, I went into the garage and measured my J-hook location, which should be real accurate. From the center of that top chrome phillips oval head machine screw that secures the top of the seat back bracket to the center of the small phillip self tapping screws that fastens the small J-hook to the outer side of the seat back measures exactly 8 1/2". Hope this helps, and good luck. Dan

JLP, Banzai sells repros in there catalog. Knowing Mike, I am sure they are very accurate reproductions. Dan Jerry, found what may be a picture for you but only good for correct location as the decal is pretty much toast. Go to "OK inspection decals" thread and check post # 4 by Mike B.

This car looked very familiar, Alan. Finally found an article with pictures in my copy of "All About Fairlady Z" published in 2005. Also nice pictures, but text is in Japanese, unfortunately.

In the grand scheme of differentiating between series 1 and series 2 cars, my car probably isn't A-typical but thought I would add to show the vague transitional differences. This bulkhead in my 1/71 series 1 car, one of the very last series 1 cars, has two pressed square indentations, not holes, with the two tool cover securing tabs above these indentations as shown in 26th-z attached pics.

Remove the nuts from the rear mounts, first. Those are the most difficult to remove. If you removed the front mount nuts first, the seat will have a tendancy to teeter backwards making holding seat and removing the rear mount nuts a little more difficult.

Nice, Jerry. I really didn't think they were for your '72. I think you are exactly correct. Although I don't know the cutoff date, some newer hardware does seem to have capture washers on many fasteners. I have also found that some newer hardware, even with the correct part numbers, may have a different profile, ie., indented? head as opposed to flat heads with correct torque strength number. Having some of those early fasteners replated in the correct yellow zinc (also very anal-retentive, here) stand out like little jewels; very rewarding. Dan

Jerry, what car is all of this hardware for?

Good question. Also, has the radio delete little storage pocket.

Jerry, I usually withhold an opinion unless I am quite certain about a resources quality, so am glad Mike's goodies have helped you in the past. By the way, Les did an outstanding job on your car. Well worth the wait I am sure. My car was with Pierre-Z for more than three years, results not as good as I had anticipated, but enjoyed more than you can image the fun of making it everything I had wanted in the next 10 year. And, thanks to you, some of your parts helped make it perfect. You are defintely, going to ENJOY THE RIDE! Dan

Jerry, In my opinion, the source for the most correct reproduction labels are found at Banzai Motorworks. I will admit to being somewhat biased as Mike McGinnis at Banzai does sell a couple of the decals which I reproduced for my car. Those are the mastervac and hazzard switch decals. He is very meticulous and I had to meet his high standards. Take a look at his website www.zzxdatsun.com, look at what he offers, and give him a call. He is extremely knowledgeable and glad to help. FWIW Dan

Jerry, did you see the set in this classified listing? ouhttp://www.datsunclassifieds.com/auto-parts/datsun-nissan/interior/72-240z-seatbelts-50.00-240z-3527.htmlr

Some of my ideas! This club is all about an appreciation of an iconic sports car, developed by hightly respected individuals, and designed with a beauty and functionality that transends the decads since its inseption. Why not use a technique called ghosting popularized by some very innovative paint designs to visually pay respect to how well the z-car has withstood the test of time. Could you not use this ghosting technique by incorporating elements such as the stylized, recognizable lines of a sugar scoop, images of Mr. K and Matsuo San, and the hood ornament or the Datsun logo shown above in 26th-z attachements, all ghosted together in some form. Incorporate the name of the club in smaller font so it would not dominate this ghosting theme but makes one actually look for the name represented in the images. These are just my brainstorming ideas which could give a unique look to a logo, but I don't have the creative computer talents to formalize a look. FWIW Dan Just had another thought concerning the club name. You could overlay the entire logo with the club name using a watermark technique which would not obscure the logo images but fit nicely with the ghosting technique. Just a thought

Nice Job Jerry! Glad my belt assemblies are old school series 1. Look foreward to seeing the end product. Dan Original Owner 1971 hls30-20419 Gold Medallion (Definitely Made My Day)

In upper right corner of this page, click on advance search. Then, do a search for "removing heater control panel". Takes a little time but not hard to do. Good Luck.

Hello Carl, When you refer to the tail pipe, above, are you making reference to the tail pipe "finisher" which is tacked onto the exhaust pipe extention at the rear of the muffler? If so, given the fact that the later bumpers extend farther out from the body, yet the tail pipe finishers were shorter, I have no explanation for this. I do recall in a post from Kats, that he used the later rear muffler assembly, ie., # 20100-N3300, on his car and had to add about 1" to this section of tail pipe so the older finisher shown in DatsunZGuys picture, ie., rusted longer finisher, would fit correctly. Knowing this, I am assuming that the earlier rear muffler assembly, # 20100-E4100, had a longer tail pipe section extending from the rear of the muffler to accomodate, and be correct, for the longer finisher. I understand your reasoning and question, Carl, and this explanation seems to contradict reason given the differences in early and later bumpers. I can tell you that the earliest exhaust finisher is the longer, mostly black, finisher with a short chrome banding at the tip. I am looking at one still in the wrapper with a part number sticker of 20105-E4100. I always associate the E4100s number as being the earliest. Carl, you would have been my "Go To" person to flesh this out so, I will still add my disclaimer that this is just the facts as I see them. Perhaps someone living in Lutz could shed more light on this? Dan As a post script, my one other thought is, for whatever reason, the shorter, mostly chrome, finishers may have been used exclusively on muffler tail pipe assemblies supplied to post- production parts resources found in your local dealership. I say this, because, when looking at part # 20105-E4100 in my parts CD, the inclusive dates are "up to 7/73", and there is no part number for a later finisher. Just thought of something else to add to the mystery. When the tail pipe assemblies were available at the parts dept., (and maybe somewhere in the country at some remote dealship you may still find one) I ordered #20100-E4100. What arrived was an assembly with #20100-N3300 embossed on the bottom of the exhaust tube with the shorter, chrome finisher attached. When the earlier assembly #20100-E4100 was available over the counter, was the earlier, longer finisher part of the assembly? Why could you purchase the earlier finisher separately over the counter, and not the later, short finisher? I'm going to stop, now, because " I'M GETTING CONFUSED"! So, as you would say Carl, FWIW.

Just to corroborate what Jerry, Carl, and Motorman7 have stated about quotes from Hagerty, I, also, recently called Hagerty directly, talked to an underwriter supervisor, and was told that the maximum agreed value policy that Hagerty would write was for $32,500 for my 1/71 240z. They would consider increasing this with pictures and an appraisal. Dan

Hi Ed, I'll give you my take in answering your questions. From the picture, it "could" be a stock (round) muffler but, without the chrome finisher installed. The pipe size "could" be the stock, approx. 1 7/8" dia. The finishers shown in your second picture in the front would be correct for the 240z up to about 7/72, and the one in back for cars up to about 7/73. These finishers came with, and were tack welded to, the muffler pipe, and they were, but no longer are, available separately from Nissan parts departments. The exhaust system, as it came on the car from the factory, was unpainted raw metal. If purchased from your local Nissan parts department, it would be in black paint for shelf wear protection. One would have to examine the muffler for a part number to know if it is, in fact, original stock. This is only my opinion based on past personal experience and research. The first picture I have attached is my car just after purchase from the dealer in March of 1971, and the second picture is after a complete restoration completed this summer. Dan

Take a look at ebay item # 370643164502. It shows the stock original strap mounting bracket used on early cars. The picture shows this bracket attached upside down. It should extend down from the bottom of the antenna, and, as mentioned above, is secured to a threaded stud you should find by a wing nut. With your antenna installed, I think you can fabricate this bracket by determining the correct bends and length to the stud. This bracket is secured to the bottom of the antenna with the correct size machine screw. If you google "Datsun 240z power antenna" you should find some pictures of a lime car with the antenna installed for visual confirmation of how it is installed. . Hope this helps. Dan

Thanks, Jerry. As you and Carl B. have pointed out to me, my rebuilds are "Inserts" not "Cartridges" such as those you have. I did not realize that the Nissan made "drop in" cartridges for the 240Z. I thought that these drop-in cartridges were all after-market supplied, and I admit to not having any hands-on experience with this. The Seal Kits that I bought to do my rebuilds are part #54308-E4126 so, I'll leave it to the experts to figure out what was done to rebuild my struts/shocks. I apologies to all for my semantical misunderstanding, (or, as Rosana Dana Dana would say, Never Mind) but couldn't be happier with the job my shop did rebuilding my struts/Shocks with factory "Inserts". Dan

Carl, That is why I hire a mechanic that has done this type of thing for the past 35 years. Please look at the attached pages of the FSM that explains what he did. I believe, when they refer to "packing" they are talking about the seal kit. I am just reiterating what I watch him do to rebuild my shocks/struts. The next time I see him, I will try to get more definitive explanations of the process. In the meantime, please see the attached FSM pages that explain what I am unable to adequately do. Carl, I will always defer to your knowledge so thanks for your explanations. Dan by the way, from my recollection, the inserts or cartridges used looks exactly like the "OEM Replacement Cart." shown in your attachment. As I understand the FSM description, this is placed in the strut casing or tube, a measured amount of oil is then placed in the strut casing, and then the "glands packing", or "seal Kit" is screwed into the strut casing, The oil is drawn into the cartridge during the dampening operation. Please take a close look at page FA-13, Fig. FA-32. I am now mentally prepared to be corrected.

Also, if you compare a Nissan thermostat to an aftermarket, you will see that the Nissan thermostat opening is about 30% larger than aftermarket. Less restrictive/ better flow/better cooling. FWIW Dan

Carl, Thanks for the clarification of terms. You are exactly correct. I should have said factory shock "inserts", and not cartridges. These inserts, along with the seal kits, are used to rebuild the shocks. The FSM outlines the process including the correct amount of oil used. I guess, along with your NOS inserts, one would also need a set of the seal kits. As I mentioned, I found mine after searching the domestic Nissan parts inventory. So, unless one could find more of these rare kits, future rebuilds may not be possible. FWIW Dan

Jerry, I remember this discussion but don't recall how many cartridges you have, and the specific part number for each one. The #56105 - N3785 would be for the front from 11/74 cars. The @#56205 - E4125 are for the rear from ll/69 - 10/74. Could you tell me if you have 4 cartridges and the respective part numbers, and, are these dry? You pictured 4 in the initial post. I could be interested in having some spares. Earlier this year, the shop that does some work for me took a set of factory cartridges off of a customer's car which were rebuildable. I scoured the country and found 4 NOS seal kits needed to do the rebuild. So, I guess I am one of the few that does have a set of rebuilt factory cartridges on there car. With a new set of reproduction springs, the car now sits at factory specs. I got very lucky in a lot of respects as things just seemed to come together, if you know what I mean. Thanks, Jerry Dan

Great Story with a Terrific Conclusion, Jerry. Much Deserved, so Enjoy! Dan Original Owner hls30-20419 Gold Medallion