Diseazd

I agree with rossiz.....

Wow.....Hubcaps sold for $1,135.00! Congrats Gary.

Get an eight inch drill extension and you don't have to take anything apart......a two hour job at most. The second time around, I think I could do it in one hour.....but I've got a lift! You can see the instructions on their site. It makes a noticable difference in body roll......great for hard driveway turns.

The new owner is going to do a total restoration including a new engine build. The basic car is rust free and straight.....a good platform to make it a perfect car........he's been looking for lime green. One small crack in the dash, otherwise a nice car to restore.

Now add one of these easy to install rear sway bars from Futofab and you'll have the whole package!

Momma's boy!

Sounds like you answered your own question.......have at it!

Way too much trouble! You'd have to remove the distributor, the sway bar, the oil pump, the radiator, the distributor shaft, the crank damper, oil pan, alternator, get a new front seal and gaskets, and hope you don't screw up the front of the head gasket in the meantime........does that silver paint look better now? ::

You don't understand Chickenman. I work in flip flops.....Stephen in white socks. Brains aren't always a Z owner's "Long Suit"!

Yes.....The thick cotton padding will save your big toe in case you drop the diff on it!!! Gotta get some myself ......the flip flops aren't much help!

Early Z's have an external voltage regulator.......280's have an internal voltage regulator. You can have a good alternator and a bad voltage regulator. A bad battery wouldn't stress an alternator, it would take 14 volts and not charge.......no stress on the alternator.

I think he's probably dead on. The voltage regulator is shot and it's stressing the alternator. Too much drag will burn the bearings up. Mine did the same thing........same squeal, burned up the belt. The alternator got so hot I thought it was going to catch on fire.

I had the same problem with a new alternator once. It would peg the amp meter all the way to the right. I installed a new alternator and voltage regulator. Problem solved.......not sure which did the fix. Steve J could probably explain why it pegged at max amps. It had that same burnt rubber residue and smell and squeal. If I recall, there was a fried wire in the voltage regulator. If you have a voltage regulator, take the cover off and check it out. I'm not sure if the alternator caused the voltage regulator to fail or vice versa.

Champion of the driveway racers! When you take it out, do some hard nose down braking......The front end will settle in. The harder you drive it through the hard left and right turns, the more she'll settle down. Take a big friend with you.......it'll help getting her down. BTW.....nice installation.....bet you could do it in your sleep now.

Stephen......The car will settle in over the next couple weeks. The Eibach springs aren't much of a drop from stock. Looks great......how do you like the ride?

For $3,000.00, you can't beat a Bendpak Lift. I couldn't live without it. Plus....It gives you another garage space!

That's really cool! Sectioning is a real pain. Let us know how they do.......don't know why they wouldn't be just as good as GC Coilovers.....only a much, much easier install.

A little confused......Do you saw your struts off at the base and just weld em up?

What's your conclusion Steve? Don't know about you, but I think the delta rockers look nicer.

Smart Guy......I think I agree with Diseazd!!!

Delta V in downtown Richmond does nice work .......reasonable prices. Ask for Glenn.....tell him Brandon Miller sent you.

You're not calling me a "dipstick" are you Blue?

A picture tells a thousand words......with 5 hungry Z's to feed, I keep a couple extra quarts of VR1. You never know when they are going to ban ZDDP altogether!

Stephen......I'd love to see a dozen or so pics of your Roadster. How 'bout it?

Seems to me, that based on each individual's research and experience, and recommendations by those whom we know and trust, each person has their "favorite" oil. I built plenty of "L" series motors in the 70's and didn't pay much attention to oil other than we used non detergent oil to break in a new build (so the rings would seat properly). However, if oil producers were adding ZDDP then, and then were forced to remove it, I think I want that in my oil now (just me). I still think that the most important aspect in breaking in a new valve train is plenty of flow and an oil that clings to pressure points. Make sure that all t's are crossed and i's dotted to make sure that happens. Fill your oil pump with oil before installing it and liberally coat the pressure surfaces with a quality prelube (which most contain zinc supposedly because it clings and coats metal better) and make sure you have oil flow. If you want to use something other than ZDDP additive oil, more power to you.....you may be fine or you may not. Your choice......my choice is VR1.