Diseazd

Marty.....That’s the damper that Eiji thinks works best on these engines....Ford, Chevy and Chrysler racers use em too. I’m breaking it in with SU’s then to Mikunis. HP should be around 235 at the fly...200 at the wheels. I’ll dyno and see....you know how that goes.

Eiji’s finished...I’ll pick it up next week. True art!!!!

Anyone have a nice stock (2+2 ; Turbo) 240mm flywheel for sale?

............just saw your tag...my Dad had Navions, Cessna 310’s, Twin Bonanza’s and one Barron.....something else in common?

Absolutely......Really beautiful Z and NSX. I don’t know which one I like driving best. You’ll love the Datsun Spirit Stroker engine....really makes for a fun drive. Can’t wait to hear how you like the ITB’s too, Eiji really keeps up with all the performance goodies. We will be doing more head to head this Spring at Dinwiddie Drag Strip....we have a blast! If ever in Virginia, stop by. BTW the NSX made it’s way from Texas to Virginia.....another thing we have in common. Regards Guy

Nice job Doc......beautiful car, and you are right, the stainless really sets off that blue paint. How about some pics of the rest of your car? Guy

This is what Eiji builds......why would you get anyone else to build your engine! 34E3D945-9CB2-4720-B911-2522AB5CC0CA.MOV

Steve.....My 73 had the two threaded inserts on each side, so all you have to do is get the proper bolts (if I recall, the ones I removed for the heavy brackets worked for the new old style brackets) and just bolt them up. You do need the two small rubber spacers and the proper bolts to bolt the bumper ends to the front fenders. The 74 may be different from the 73. Guy

I converted my 73 last year.....you just need 2 early brackets from MSA or Zcardepot. The early bumpers bolt right up! Much cleaner look.

Patcon.....I got around to removing the glue from my windows. I masked everything off and put down drop clothes and used this stuff with 000 steel wool. Only took an hour to do all 5 windows.....ammonia will work, but not nearly as good as Goof Off. 000 steel wool won’t scratch the windows.....several layers of removal followed by window cleaner. My windows have never been cleaner!

Should be in my garage next week.....

Permatex high temp anaerobic flange sealant. This stuff is made for those apps Blue.

I never get tired of cool Datsun stuff......going to the bottom end.

Nothing out of the ordinary....Stainless steel swirl valves....Isky springs and Stage III .490 lift camshaft. The head is cut .080 inches, then cc’d...the P79/P90 heads are very efficient as they come. I believe Eiji is shooting for 11 to 1 CR. That head looks perfect doesn’t it? No electrolysis at all.

Rolling on.......Things are starting to take shape.........I’m ready to hear this motor come to life!

I would take it to a machine shop....they will fix it while you wait for very little cost. My guess is they will keep it stock specs with a heli coil. Some things are best left to the pros! IMO

I’m a big fan of your period correct American Libre wheels. In the early 70’s, people would notice all Z’s, but when one came by lowered, front and rear BRE spoilers and a set of Libre wheels (made famous by Morton and Brock) and an aftermarket exhaust that sounded like Road Atlanta, it made them want to go out and buy one. Nothing wrong with a well restored Z with skinny tires and hubcaps, but what gets my juices flowing is the stuff that makes you feel like you ARE John Morton. IMO Zup, keep those Libres .......they are period correct.

What color are you going to powder coat those valve covers Brandon?

Brandon lent me his steamer. You steam the hell out of an upper corner.....then start a peel with a razor.....pull down on the corner until you get 4 or 5 inches to pull on, then you can rip the whole section off cleanly. Use concentrated amonia to clean up the residue. All five windows took me a total of 30 minutes. My guess is you want the car as warm as possible....my garage is heated, but you could heat the interior up with the car heater for 10 minutes first.

Removed the tint from my 73.......

I agree with Mark.....if you are getting continuous flow to rear carb, the only other variable is a restriction in the route from the fuel rail to the carb. Just had a friend that had the same problem.....new filter in banjo fitting solved the problem. He had just had his gas tank lined at a radiator shop. The red (twizzler looking) liner was dissolving and building up in his filter.

Pm sent

Do you have a before and after on those throttle bodies B? I love before and after shots!

Rich.....Wow....facts of life....restoring a Datsun 240Z correctly is very, very expensive. The customer got a bargain, and I’m sure your labor costs charged were nowhere close to what time (and knowledge) went into the Resto. What the public doesn’t understand is that when a Z goes across the auction block, they sell (with a few exceptions) for less than has been invested. Two things stick out......start with a rust free, straight car (pay up for the right car), and pay up for the paint and body work. Your attention to detail is incredible! The engineer in you is apparent (Fluid Mech and Thermodynamics made me switch majors at Georgia Tech). These cars are so intoxicating......( everyone on this forum knows that). You certainly know that too.....You didn’t do this restoration for money, you did it because you are crazy about these cars......I am too! Congrats to you and the customer who got a real bargain. Guy

Can't believe you did all that work for someone else......wish I had friends like you....no matter what you charged (and I'm sure it wasn't enough)! When do you start your white car?