GreenZZZ

Nope! Break fewer bolts that way.

If you are in there, consider doing the timing chain as well, and do expect to break a water pump on timing front cover bolt or two.

The buyer may of figured that out. We may see it relisted that way in a few months.

While your checking the needle valve, between the inlet tube of the float bowels and the float bowl check needle valve is a barrel wire mesh filter. I had this thing jam up on a Z once. I've seen people remove these. Mine are installed.

Do you remember if it is on 240Z.org or classiczcars.com and what year/month, you can sometimes retrieve an article from the internet archive wayback machine off http://www.archive.org. This is especially true if folks were cross linking their web sites to Bambikiller240's article as Google's archive may have it as well. Its got to be somewhere as there is no delete button on the internet...:paranoid:

I did the work you mentioned plus I cleaned the brushes inside the motor. When you take apart the motor, make sure you find all the little brush springs that go flying everywhere. You'll need 'em.

In the 2nd link, notice they have zhome.com, zcar.com, but no classiczcars... :hurt: The blue paint/interior on the featured car looks fantastic.

Its a buttnee

The Capital Z-Car of Texas did a dyno day in 2005 and since it was real inexpensive, I took mine down. It clocked in at 105 HP. The motor is close to stock, but very high miles on the block. Stock exhaust, E31 head (stock valves) on a '72, Malory ignition, stock alternator, no smog pump, bigger oil pump.

Without Z Therapy, there would only be chaos.

Motorsport can get them. I bet they are sourced from Classic Datsun. They are painted, not colored plastic.

Looks like the minimum bid price (26K) was reasonable. Didn't generate a sale.

Here is what the Datsun Restore panels looked like. The padding wasn't glued to the vinyl so it has too loose of a fit, but it is such a huge improvement from the prior setup it replaced, especially consider the installer is an upholstery hack. :cross-eye

My clutch problem started as an upshift clunk and progressed to "clunk clunk clunk". It sounded like it was more of a differential sound, but I couldn't find any problems in the back after all the repairs I did, so I pulled the transmission. The clutch was not to the rivets yet but worn and was not oil fowled (my rear motor seal was fine). I put in a new clutch, plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel surface, and rear engine seal while I was in there and put it back together expecting no improvement, I was wrong, it was the fix. I think what was happening was the clutch disk wasn't slipping on the disk but bouncing off it. A new clutch disk has grooves for the pad dust to escape. I think the dust was accumulating and getting sticky and the clutch plate was bouncing. I saw a non Zcar discussion of clutch dust causing clutch chatter due to non-asbestos clutch materials, don't know... I put in all Nissan parts. No idea what was in there. http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/clutch.htm

Lots of big houses with big garages in Alpharetta. You should do well.

You have to pull the crank pulley before pulling the timing cover off. You'll need a pulley puller. I did a Mallory distributor and it needed no timing cover work at all for a '72 240. Just pull the old distributor and mount the new one. Easy Easy...

I think most folks on this list are doing a Z restoration program!