Zvoiture

No...just the threads--like you would on pipe threads. One of the main functions of 'speed bleeders' is they have nylon (or equivalent) thread areas that do not allow air to sneak back in through the threads. The one-way valves are a nice thought, but the same can be achieved by elevating the pot you are bleeding into above the bleeder screw. The biggest air-entrance area during bleeding is the threads. Seal the threads and this is eliminated. With a vacuum gun, it becomes really obvious. Try to bleed with 'plain' threads and you get air all day long. Seal them and you get straight fluid. steve

One of the best items that come with every junker that travels through my garage is: They all have one of those great little body jacks in the trunk. I must have 5 or 6. I have shored foundations, roofs, jacked up entire houses with them, bent tubing, straightened everything and on one occasion, lifted a '63 Nova hotrod off the garage floor (it fell off the jackstands and no other jack would work--Datsun to the rescue!). One of their most valuable uses is lifting things up under the car for welding or just plain assembly. They work great for end links. Just put the top of one under the head of the link-bolt and give it a few hand twists. Sometimes you have to block the sway bar or control arm to keep it from moving. WATCH YOUR JACKSTANDS WHILE DOING THIS!!! Don't put so much pressure on that the car is lifted off the stands! Here's another tip: Put the jack under the head of the bolt and put a little pressure on it. Leave the top bushing off and install the washer (or several washers) directly on top of the bar eye. Install the nut and tighten. Remove the nut and re-install the correct components (top bushing and washer). This compresses the other three and their respective gaps enough to usually allow easy installation of the completed assembly. steve

Around these parts, it is, "Here, hold my beer. Watch this." steve

In no particular order...... The 15/16 on the 83 and 4 is backwards (it also has a single reservoir divided internally). 15/16 from 79-82 are the same orientation as 7/8. Did you install a proportioning valve? Bleed both masters and then work from nearest to furthest wheel away from MC. Take the spring off the brake pedal and see if it 'drops'. I doubt it, as the brakes worked before and you didn't muss with anything. Reaction disc? Save the fresh bled fluid, let it sit in the bottle--covered--a while until the tiny bubbles dissipate. It is fine to re-use for major bleeding excercises. If you have run that much through, you've got all the cooked stuff and crap out. Get a vaccuum gun. Buy a nice one. Spend more than $50. Poor-man's 'speed bleeders' are: Wrap teflon tape around the threads of the bleeder screws. Quite a bit cheaper and performs the exact same function. steve

Where to buy? steve

And just think: When I sel this car, I can advertise: TWO REACTION DISKS!!! steve

Yeah, I pulled the master. I suppose you could just unbolt it and bend it out of the way, but it seems like a lot of stress on the brake lines. I suppose if you just bleed the master and not the wheels there is only the possibility of a bubble between the bottom of the master and the top of the brake lines. On a street car it might not affect much and might even work it's way out. This is a race car and the fluid takes a lot of stress, and gets cooked quickly. With those kind of temperatures inside the lines, you don't want any air (air=moisture). I bleed my car every day so its no big deal. With the right tools, it only takes a second. I'll probalby drive it tomorrow, and I will let you know if it works. steve

I did it I did it I did it!!!! And ON the car, no less! (for those who have not experienced removing a booster in a race car with full cage and seat--it ranks right up there with rear spindle pins...and I'm little!) Remove master cylinder. Grasp the rod and move it in and out of it's seat a bit, feeling and listening. If you feel the solid 'click click click' of metal on metal with no 'give', your reaction disk is gone. If it is quiet and 'gives' a bit, it's still there. There is a blued steel spring-lock-retainer clippy thing holding the gasket around the rod. Put a flat screwdriver under one edge and pry out. It will break at the screwdriver, but it doesn't seem to affect re-assembly. It still holds the rubber boot in nicely. Under the clip is the rubber boot and a large flat washer. Pull the rod out and all this will come with it. It will resist quite a bit a first. The rod has a large solid metal base affixed to it. The reaction disk goes between the base and it's seat in the booster. The disk is the same diameter as the base and about 3/16" thick solid rubber. I repeated the above steps with another booster I had (one that didn't hold vaccuum) and there is liberal grease on the base and the disk sticks to it and will come out with it. With the reaction disk firmly affixed to the base of the rod with the grease, just re-insert. Put the metal washer and rubber boot back on and snap in the--now broken--retainer. Re-install the master and bleed. 15 minutes! I have not applied vaccuum yet, but the pedal feel is worlds better. steve

I was implying from a 'shape' standpoint. steve

...what nationality would she be? steve

Because no one says 'thank you' quite enough, I just want to tell everyone what a wonderful club you all have made this place. You all--yes, ALL OF YOU, have done one of two things: 1. You are all decent, logical, confident people who practice common decency, 'think-before-you-type', are blessed with higher-than-average IQ's and generally respect your fellow man--even when they are faceless. --OR-- 2. Mike deletes everything sub-standard so fast I never see it. I was just bored and visited a Z-forum I used to practically 'live' at. I am still in shock at how little has changed since I got fed up and left. Same old 'wide wheels' and 'header' quibbling. Same old 'bodily function' topics. Same old ebonic slamming and totally pointless off-topic conversations that erupt into verbal antagonism and name-calling. I LOVE YOU GUYS!!!!! Sorry I'm a grouch sometimes.... steve

>>>>why I think they are bringing the GTO over in the next year or so<<<< Already here. Have seen several--including one at the track. They sound pretty mean. Where's my Falcon? steve

There is a visible casting difference inside the chamber by the sparkplug. It is present on early e88's and absent on later. There is a good picture of it on Z garage or Zhome...can't remember which. steve

Cars themselves are being 'SUV'ed' also. Have you seen the Dodge Magnum and Chrysler 300? steve

Ditto...make sure you have verified WHICH e-88 you have. steve

My grandparents swore by Oldsmobile. They always had one. My grandfather used to take the bus to Detroit and drive home with a new one every year. My parents always had Pontiacs. Don't want to hijack the thread, but do you think--given global automotive trends--Chevy is regretting shutting down all their RWD plants? steve

An FI motor that runs rich is very simple to fix. Don't sell it. steve

That was very helpful, thank you. steve

I believe Craftsman blew the whole field away in the popularity contest Carl speaks of. steve

And where does it belong? Sounds like I need a new booster. steve

This is EXACTLY what mine is doing. It totally stands on it's nose. I was ready to do something drastic like take the guts out of the proportioning valve or something. My mechanic said it was because I turned the frontt discs and not the rear drums. He also said the rears were not adjusted properly. Right. But there are still a few unanswered questions. Thread moved: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=86575#post86575 steve

...Moved from another thread.... This is EXACTLY what is wrong with my car and yes, I did remove the engine side of the rod to compare the length with my existing (it was adjusted in way shorter which I chalked up to being in an auto? Probably not correct, but that is not the issue at hand). The rod did offer a bit of resistance the first time I pulled it out and from then on it was just floppy. Reaction disk huh? So....to reiterate and unanswered quesiton: Can you get a booster apart? Does not look like fun. Or, couldn't you just adjust the rod out longer to compensate for the dropped disk? Or is it more complicated than that? steve

How do you tell if a master cylinder is bad? I am just at wits end with my brakes on this new car. Either that or the booster is working WAAAAY too good. The problem is there just isn't any pedal feel. My street car (280 with stock 7/8 and 280 Booster) has the nice gradually increasing resistance (motor running) all the way down. The new car has a 15/16 on a 280 Booster. The booster holds a vacuum and the system is fully bled (and bled and bled). The brakes work good, but there is no pedal feel. With motor running, it is just gush all the way down and then BAM! the brakes engage--hard. With motor off, brakes are very hard. I have gone through everything several times. My mechanic went through it and deemed it fit ("rears were out of adjustment a bit"). Something has to be wrong. Either that or this is the way they all are and my street car with its good pedal resistance is wrong. I don't think so. I'm going to take the spring off today and see where the pedal 'falls', in case it could be either of the rod adjustments, but you would think I would notice a short rod when the motor is off. It's almost as if the booster works to good. It feels like a mushy massive land-yacht Lincoln or something, except when they do finally engage, they are stopping a 2000 lb car with R4S's. I need to be able to feel them! Somebody help! steve

Wow, Crystal finally gets her forum. And her first post--NOT! Funny, I didn't see simultaneous cross-posts to ZCAR.com and others like in the past. Losing your edge, Crystal? steve

I guess every couple years we should bring back the old polls... steve