JimmyZ

Do you have a manual or the specs to adjust your pedal height and slave cylinder? I'd recheck the adjustment. Make sure that the fork is riding on the post properly. Sounds like you have a 280Z PP which is good. This leaves misadjustment as the most likely culprit. Second place goes to A binding collar. Shaft collar rides on may not allow the collar to back off enough. (Too much crud) This is kind of unlikely. Distant third possibility would be PP/flywheel/disc not cleaned before assembly.

It's the year 2007 and the world at large is still unenlightened and lacking any desire for true knowledge/spirituality. Getting rid of all one's vices doesn't guarantee you a free ticket through the pearly gates. The "misbehavior" is a symptom of a larger disease which is not easily cured until one is "called" to a different standard. One of my favorite verses was in Thessalonians regarding a "man of lawlessness". Basically a man was sent to deceive and was specifically allowed to do so because people did not want to know the truth. They were allowed to believe the lie and would perish with no intervention from above because of their superficial treatment of faith. Americans and the world at large are in for a bumpy ride:) 2c Jim

OMG! That's UNREAL and completely uncalled for. How anyone could think it's OK to hop in something they don't own and thinks it's kosher? Perhaps she was trying to steal the car or something inside?? I think you would have been OK to confront her about what she was doing. I was at an airshow once and caught two bozos hopping in/on an F4U Corsair. Not only is it a rare plane but they are $1-2.5 million by the time you get one restored. The people who own such planes attend airshows because they want to share/show what they have. I know how you felt because I was almost opened a can 'O whoopass on them for being so ignorant/uncaring/selfish. In the "spirit" of this thread I'll call it righteous indignation:) Jim

You got a post in before I could finish writing:) That would usually be the release bearing going bad. (Sounds like a hum) You can drive a bad release bearing for a long while so don't panic. It's just an annoying sound. You might have the release bearing riding on the pressure plate. It is supposed to ride slightly off of it when your foot is off the pedal. The pedal height and slave cylinder need to be adjusted for it to function right. (System bled properly too)

So we can help, tell us what model you have. Assumming you have a 240Z.. Did you get a 240Z pressure plate? They suck! The reman ones suck even worse. The 280Z PP grips very well and is flatter than the 240 PP. (You did compare the sizes of this part and the last) I once bought a PP and didn't open the box until I got home. They had given me a 240 PP which I tried but removed after experiencing what you are. Other things it could be.. Perhaps your clutch collar is on wrong. (One guy somehow installed his backwards) Perhaps the collar doesn't match the height of the PP. (Do a search on this site for clutch collar) You did bleed and adjust the slave cylinder and have the clutch master pushrod set at the right height right? Spray the flywheel AND pressure plate with brake parts cleaner or appropriate solvent before attaching clutch? (There is a protective oil coating on the PP) Was the clutch disc new and free of any oils etc? Was the flywheel worn or scored from a bad disc? Just running my mental mouth. 2c Jim

Wow! Nice vid! You are experiencing something which most little grey people of the world may never know... True adoration and appreciation of a fine car which you happen to own. There's nothing like driving your dream. Music was good but Deep Purple's "Smoke on the Water" or "Highway Star" might be a good one to try next time. Wish I was single and 18 years younger:love: In the age of airhead Paris Hilton wanabees, girls with substance like yourself are a rare commodity. Jim

A semi scriptural reply in a jovial form. I am not religious or trying to poke at anyone. Such commandments wouldn't be necessary if people knew "tzedek". (Hebrew for righteousness) Treating others as God intended us to extends to all aspects of interaction with others IMO. What ever happened to "Thou shalt not drive in the left lane while everyone is passing you by"?? Better yet.. "Thou shalt not crawl up someone's backside at a light, especially when it's a meticulously restored Z car" Oh yeah, "Thou shalt not set thine baby seat on my HOOD or lean on my nice paint"! "Vengeance is for the Lord" but what I would give to have a death ray or perhaps a laser sighted semi-automatic hypodermic dart gun which could flatten offending driver's tires. Driving in today's cities has lost its fun due to rubberneckers, congestion and the "me first" attitude which pervades driving society. Like ways of sinning, people invent new means of getting to the front of the line while pissing everyone else off. As I age it's amusing to see what passes as acceptable road behavior today as compared to twenty years ago. Sad really. Jim

I imagine you tried new plugs and wires? Checked the ditributor caps for cracks etc?? Try using a timing light on it when it's missing. Use the inductive pickup on each spark plug wire to figure out if it's an ignition prob or fuel. A misfiring plug will not create a flash from the timing light. This is also a fast way to isolate a fouled plug on an oil burning engine. Fuel or ignition probs can sound alike. Ignition is easy to figure out but fuel on a 280 needs a bit more thought. 2c Jim

She got pregnant by getting another dude to do the deed. Her hubby's wasn't working. I'm sure that it happens a lot.

Guess Nissan was a bit proud of their more "modern" systems at the time of writing. This caused them to use fancier terminology. They should use "self adjusting" or semi-automatic:) This is especially true when the hardware is aged. Guess it means that you don't need to get out of the car and adjust them. Back up fast and E-brake.

Get Tom Monroe's book about rebuilding the L series. Research the misinformation in it's pages as there are a few things which are incorrect. This site has a few references to this. Don't take it apart until you have or can afford to buy all of the parts which will get it assembled. Be careful where you take the engine for machining. The good places sometimes have a long wait for them to get around to your engine. One shop in Orlando used to have an extremely long wait time but rumor had it that it was worth it. Inspect the finished work, especially on the head. My nightmare was sending the head off and requesting a three angle valve job and getting a two angle job back! They also claimed to have replaced a few valve guides but instead merely knurled all of them. Place a mark on the outside of you head to verify that you get your head back and not an exchange. Write down your block serial number since it does not match the VIN. Visually inspect parts and have them magnafluxed/zyglo'ed where applicable. Don't skimp on this! I bought the pistons myself but found that the shop that did the work could have gotten them cheaper. (Worth looking in to) An engine stand is a very nice thing! I did my first rebuild with no stand using pizza boxes spread over the living room floor! (Apartment) Do your own assembly unless you have taken it to a good shop who cares about what they do. Such a shop will do a better job since they have superior tools and experience. It is fun to do it yourself though.

If your hubby has a lot invested in his engine or the CR is really high you might want to stick with the expensive stuff. Forgot to add this earlier.

AVgas scented exhaust smells NICE too!! Too bad CO is lethal to inhale.

Aviation fuel is much cheaper and you can simply mix it 1/2 to 1/2 with unleaded. The "low lead" aviation fuel supposedly has a lot more lead than the stuff that used to run through our cars and might foul the plugs. You could always try varying the ratios. Befriend and FBO (Fixed base operator/owner of airport) Worth a try.

Here's a photo of a new immigration camera. To me this picture represents the frustration of the issue to many parties. It is not intended to be taken literally or as my point of view.

I wouldn't want to do that but I'd really hate to see you get towed home again too. My Z has only been towed twice in 18 years. Did you ever get to checking the tranny fluid? Good luck:classic: Jim

Huh?? I've had mine run dry before but never encountered the problems you described. I thought you had it rev several thousand rpm higher while in gear at speed followed by a loss of power. Glad to hear you're back at least!

I'll take a swing... How's your fuel filter?? Try changing the filter after it dies. See if the restriction in your fuel rail is plugged. (The small opening on the return end of your fuel rail. Try blowing air through the fuel rail with the lines removed. (remove and plug your carb lines for this) If you have on, take a siphon sandblaster's pickup tube and attach it to the supply line.(After the fuel filter) Run some air through the gun hold a rag over the discharge end and see what kind of crap ends up in the rag. Did you take off the carb float bowl tops and check the needle valves? I once had a rusty tank which clogged the filter every few miles. I removed the tank, dumped as much crud out of it as I could and bought some time/functionality before restoring the tank. Here's a fuel tank refurbishing page I made. It might help. Nice pics at bottom of page. http://warbuddies.homestead.com/gastank.html Cheers Jim

Very nice!!! Something to be proud of! Did you spray clear on your polished aluminum after polishing or do you just keep at it?

After looking at the side shot I'm wondering what suspension changes have been made. Your dad has the PERFECT Z! Oh yeah.... Please please tell me some suspension specs. Jim

While you have the fuel bowl covers off check your needle valves. Both carbs needle valves were stuck after after prolonged storage. (Not to be confused with fuel metering needle) Unplug the return line at the fuel rail and verify that it's not plugged. Careful with the spilt gas! Having a fire extinguisher nearby would be a good idea since you will be cranking. You did try using the choke right??

Best to sandblast or bead blast them. This will also help smooth any gouges/scratches in the surface. Aircraft remover would be my second means of stripping. Electrolysis can eat aluminum once the paint is gone so be careful and watch over your parts if using this method. Research electrolysis on aluminum it if that's the way you want to go. 2c

WOW! Makes me want to go back to the original color. (L.Yellow) You should be making posters or something. Magnificent! Jim

It's got to be the tranny or rear end. I'd almost bet my left nut on it. ALMOST!! Jim

In neutral the mainshaft and halfshaft are turning. If there are any crunchies swimming in the tranny or a bearing gone bad it will be difficult to turn. The only way to isolate the engine from the tranny is to use the clutch. (Assuming it releases properly) The more I think about it it is probably something in the tranny. Drain the tranny fluid and see what's up. Jim