zKars

Found it! Doing the SEEK thing is especially fun to watch. Guess there are at least 2 or three AM stations here to seek for….. AM_Radio.MOV

FIRST I MUST APOLOGIZE FOR POSTING INCORRECT PHOTOS. THEY HAVE BEEN CORRECTED TO THE CORRECT RADIO. AGE IS CATCHING UP TO ME FOR SURE. AGAIN MY SINCERE APOLOGIES. I have a used and fully functional early AM only 240z radio from a Jan 71 240. Model TM-1081ZB(s) Came out of a Z restored last year. Owner has had if many many years, pretty sure its original to the car. I have a video somewhere in my library with it working on the bench playing the only AM station we have left in Calgary. Some talk radio news outlet I think. Will post as soon as I find it. Don’t hold your breath as they say, if I have to I’ll make another one. Seen these at $2500USD when fully restored, happy to let this one go for $1500 USD plus postage.

Small update I guess as the tariffs seem to have shifted to a flat 10% now, according to Zonos messages I’ve been receiving. Since it is now possible to predict in advance what the tariff amounts will be as I ship items, I may be tempted to return to shipping items to the US via postal only. I’m posting one item for sale today as a test.

Negatory sorry

Little bit of brightness and contrast twiddling….. Shows up the cover better anyway Sure looks like an original cover at least, I’ say that due to the wavy distorted shape that is the common aging symptom. Anxious to see better pictures of the whole thing.

I found I like these SS studs from Amazon. Ford engine spec. I love the hex internal drive on the end, makes inserting them easy. Cut to length as you need to. I also like the price and quality. I do have a ton of their flange nuts left over, i rarely use those. Belmetric has m8 nuts with 12mm heads that are yellow zinc plated

The ring around the base of the switch has two tiny holes. Have to invent a tool to turn it, like a set of pointy tipped tweezers. More difficult is getting to the two electrical connectors at the back.

One very common culprit is the hazard switch. It is the central clearing house that affects turn and hazard signal functions. Try cycling it several times (like 20) and see if the symptoms change or if the problem solves itself. Remove it and open it to clean the 8 contacts

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Has anyone ever studied an original to see if it has a tiny vent hole? I shall certainly go look at the one I have squirreled away. I have trouble with the concept of a “grease reservoir”. Grease does not circulate around inside the rack, or wheel bearings for that matter. Its high viscosity and immense stickiness makes its job to stay put as a film on metal surfaces. I do not understand how having any grease in this thing is of any help to maintaining grease levels in the rack. Some might get pushed in there initially, but it’s never ever coming back out. Same with putting grease in the wheel bearing dust cap. Other than providing a barrier for dust incursion, it can serve as a reservoir for grease in the bearings. There is no way for it to get there. Engineering wise, I see some wisdom in providing a vent, and thus maybe a small volume to keep a small vented quantity from getting out to make a mess, but it would have to have a hole to function as a vent. No grease would go in if there was not a way to displace air in the reservoir. And they did abandon these reservoirs on later racks, so they do in fact serve no useful purpose. Sorry to go off track on the thread. The work of the reproduction is excellent, you should be commended. I love seeing a reservoir on the rack when it’s supposed to be there.

I just checked the sizes of the stock 82-83 turbo wheel lug nuts, and they have the same 18.xx mm shank diameter I have purchased the Dorman 611241 lug nuts in the past and they are decent quality. Rock Auto has them.

And there is that thread on the valve cover breather and trying to find something that will convert it to AN or NPT to run a catch can hose. Seen infinite discussions about it, what folks did to change it, and even some fitting for RB engines someone found that fits, but still waiting to have the actual size stated.

Yup, 7/16-20 for the seat belts. M12 is a valid spec as well from some DOT document I found 15 years ago when I was researching aftermarket replacement belts. No idea what manufacturers adopted world wide. Also curious what seat belt threads were used on the various early 60’s datsuns (411, roadsters etc). The 1/4-28 are on the two Z hood bumper . Craziest thing I’ve ever seen. Must have been supplier determined at the time.

Here are the thread rules. Again. For any hardware you are likely to encounter. 4 x 0.7 5 x 0.8 6 x 1.0 8 x 1.25 10 x 1.5 - bolts that thread into the engine block. Trans, head, brackets, 10 x 1.25 - All other M10 bolts, ie suspension and body are 1.25 12 x 1.25 - wheel studs, front spindle to steering arm, trans mount (later), TC rod ends, Flywheel , spindle pins 14 x 1.5 - diff strap bolts, front control arm pins 16 x 1.5 - Crank bolt 20 x 1.5 - Rear Stub Axles Threaded pipe fittings are all BSPT, A/C and EGR excluded. There is a 1/4x28 SAE thread somewhere for you to find as a test. There are 7/16-20 SAE too. Another test. And what the heck is up with those short fat rear control arm bushing bolts? And why do I have 2 or 3 dozen of them? The first 7 on the list are the ones you should have taps and dies for on hand at all times. Better yet the thread restoring kind, not the thread making kind. Print this out and post it on the shop wall.

Never seen the last type. Suspect it is a retro fit that someone did from some other car. The first one is 240, second is 280, though can’t nail down the change over date. Could be as early as the north american 260 in 74. The fiche might provide the date info