zKars

Just to add a couple of details that make this job easier for me. Tools. 1. Getting the rope in the groove. If getting one rope in the groove is tough for you, and my suggestion of using two ropes gives you the willies, then use this trick Go buy a 6 inch piece of 1/4 OD brass or aluminum thin wall tubing from a hobby supplier. Stuff your 3/16 rope through it (I flared one end to make it easier) and use this stiff piece of tubing to poke the rope into the groove (use the un-flared end), then just draw the tubing along the groove feeding rope into it as you pull it along. Keep it poked deep in the groove as you go. Should take you under 60 sec to get the rope all the way around and tucked in real pretty.

Oh wow, that's neat! Sorry, no can do. That Z passed on a few years ago, don't even have one at the moment. Dang picture makes me a bit misty, sniff..... You-all have fun this year! Drool over the new Z for me. I'll show up again next time the show is bit closer to home.

Ok, this will seem real obvious when i say it, you’re going to kick yourself for not thinking of it, but here goes. Use two ropes. Start center top AND center bottom. Pull the bottom left and right a little, pull the top left and right a little, keep working out to the edges. Stop about an inch short of the sides. Keep prying the gasket all the way over the pinch weld with a flat plastic tool all the way across the top and bottom. Just put the tool between glass and gasket, and push the gasket down and toward you, away from the glass, and push it down hard over the pinch weld to seat it fully. Do not pry against the glass, no need to, you are pushing the rubber lip all the way (down at the bottom, up at the top) over the pinch weld. Once both top AND bottom lips are pulled over the pinch weld and seated, that sucker is trapped in place. Now go around the bottom two corners and up the two sides with the two separate ropes and finish by going around the top corners. Bang you’re done. I did the rear glass by myself. Did not require any outside pressure. Yes I went out a couple of times and taped the glass/gasket to help it lay as deep and flat as it can. Did not struggle in any way shape or form. Took under 10 minutes from start of pulling. Z windshields “should” work just as well. They have more curvature, maybe a friend to help keep the gasket/glass flat and seated deeply as you pull both top and bottom over the lip. Should have some to do this summer, will keep you posted.

Here is the statement of the problem I “usually” have. I start by pulling the bottom lip, from the center in each direction, and eventually work around to the top center to finish. The bottom and sides usually go just fine, but that top, that dang top, it almost always wants to sit out too far, no matter what experienced helper I have pushing gallantly from the outside to keep its a$$ in place, it just wants to stick out just far enough to make pulling the lip over the pinch weld a real tough deal. Yes I make sure the gasket in fully seated deep in the opening to start, keep pushing it down as you work around, it all looks great until you get to those top corners and around to the top. I always get it, but its more work. Don’t get me started about that dang hatch glass, that gasket has a smaller and stiff lip that is really hard to get over the pinch weld than the front and the top is usually a real nasty deal to finish. I have tried starting at the top, but gravity works against you the bottom now wants to stick out more than ever.

Many of us have learned to replace windshields ourselves. This thread is not so much a tutorial on the whole process, there are great threads for that else where. I just to add a method that will make the generally accepted technique of using a rope in the pinch weld groove to pull the inner lip over the pinch weld, into an actual pleasant experience rather than a test of will and strength. Here we go. Just tried this today on a 510 rear windshield after a common struggle with the front. The experience on the back was heavenly.

All day and not one of you had the guts to just reply “You’re Crazy” Fine. I’m not sharing what I found out. Ok, fine, I will. Don’t do it. The corner pulling is too tight, too much risk of tearing it. The wonderful soft rubber in the Datsport gaskets might survive it, but “No chancey Mr Dancey” for Precision brand. Besides, I devised a method to do it the conventional way that surpasses any previous method I had used up to now. Will share in a better thread.

And a hint about doing glass installs. Many say they use soapy water or even spray can glass cleaner to help lube things as they get the glass in the WS and to get the rubber to seat well in the car, but I never use it. I find it dries out too fast and doesn't really make it any easier. I have no trouble doing it dry. But, couple areas are a bit sticky, like roping around the top corners and getting the SS trim in place. I'm going to use Corn starch this time around for lube. Tried on the door weather stripping miter corners of the 510 (if you know you know) and man, it totally removed the tackiness and its dry and blows away. No mess. Baby powder is the same stuff just smellier and 100x the price. I'll let you know

I've installed a dozen or so windshields between 510's and Z's in the last few years, I find it pretty easy now. But today I'm about to do it again (510), and something popped into my head. There is, after all a fairly big vacuum in there that allows things to slip in pretty easily.. Why not put the gasket in the car over the pinch weld FIRST, THEN put the glass in the gasket. Put the rope in the glass channel rather than the pinch weld channel and pull it over the glass? Any one else try this before? What madness makes me think this might be a tad easier since your pulling rope on the outside rather than cramped in the car, and I can push down with one hand while pulling rope up against that force with the other? Maybe once I actually try this it will be mind numbingly obvious why you would never do it that way. Maybe the pointy corners mean you have to pull out a lot of rubber at once and risk tearing it. Maybe you still need two people at the very least to get started since you have that free hunk of glass sliding around until it get it started. Yeah, I'm crazy for sure. But I'm not sure I can rest until I try. Anyone want to convince me one way or the other?

I have not seen anything about a specific VIN when the change was made, but as noted above, the one with the welded J hood is “Early” (up to jan 71 ish) the smooth simple bent “J” is later.. Notice the bell crank ball arm on the other end is at a different angle as well. This likely corresponds to when the firewall belcrank mount change occured as well. Early geometry sometime resulted in a oscillating pedal motion and engine surging. Haven’t talked about this is quite a while

Sometimes you find something so cool you just have to share it. Only electrical geeks will truly appreciate the engineering behind this amazing device. Behold the StewMac “FREE WAY ULTRA SWITCH” Read deeply into the specifications for this thing. It’s mind blowing. Today you’d do that level of switching sophistication with software and transistors. Though not if you’re a musician apparently. There just has to be a way to use in a Datsun. Use your imaginations. Enjoy! https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/components-and-parts/switches/free-way-ultra-switch/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla&fbclid=IwAR0YLOqtfkuf7P3pU5U1-8y-GUQq0DAT3ijot58HA4WGxjiRK0EHCliiVAI_aem_ASTU1W3q0D2S5H0v8nqQHse-oXHOV9923BOfddgOcjqRR397O4C8gYfb9AgOl4wdqVDthbtRnwpiwta59eYrGLhanTqJkwoXQRjQht4sGniybm0TOJp6Lu2KmXapqbfOnMA&fs=e&s=cl

Just because there is no sense in starting another thread on this, I’ll share my experience on this. It’s four door 510 door weatherstrip day (week actually) around here, and I purchased the replacement strips from Datsport in Australia. http://www.datsport.com/rubbers-510-sedan.html Part number SBO51F-14 They are perfect fit replacements for the stock items. I must note that the 510 rubbers are quite a bit different than the Z pieces. Much smaller, and too short. so stop drooling, the Datsport parts don’t fit. As to the Lowes.com garage door weatherstrip mentioned above, Lowes Canada does not carry it but Homedepot.ca does! https://www.homedepot.ca/product/m-d-building-products-2-inch-x-9-ft-premium-rubber-weather-seal-replacement-garage-door-bottom-black/1001120751 I’m working on modify one of those heavy staplers to punch right through and make installation easy. None of the staples I’ve found yet match the 10mm spacing of the stock staple legs. I’m going to try some modern 3m adhesives and see if I can make a sandwich that stays together without staples at all. There sure are lots of aftermarket rubber companies that make various “Belt moldings”, steelrubber products being only one. And lastly, if you think even new perfect fitting seals keep water out of your doors you’re a dreamer. Slow it down, sure. Much better time spent water proofing the inside bottom of your doors with yearly maintenance and added application of spray in creep and lube rust proofers and making sure the drain holes are open.

But of course. Long since lost, not even sure I took any.

Yes I did put a small roller bearing into the clutch pedal arm where the old pin hole was to both remove slop and make it a never-wear-out-the-hole situation. The added benefit was a smoother pedal fell, although it was likely as much a simple improvement over the old pin the worn out hole feel. I used a small 1/4” ID router guide bearing with maybe a 1/2 or 5/8“ OD and just tack welded the outer race to the pedal arm to keep it in place after drilling a matching hole for it to sit in. I used a grade 8 1/4” shoulder bolt that fit the bearing nice and snug too with a nylok nut to keep it in place.

Mother’s “Back to Black” works well for me. Another somewhat more industrial product called “Rubber Renue” is also quite good. Here is a picture of a couple of cowl drain hoses from a 510 that I “restored” yesterday. Guess which one got the Back to Black treatment after a good scrubbing to remove oxidation and dirt. Also amazed at the condition of these soft rubber hoses after 53 years.

Remember to be extra careful when selecting the longer of the two thermostat housing to head bolts! It penetrates the head and can come in contact with the timing chain guide. More than one unfortunate soul has broken the guide in the process. (Cough cough) The right length is under 70 mm IIRC, something like 63mm? The fiche part number is not a 08xxx that gives you the bolt spec as least not in the fiche I have : 11063-21001 #41 in this fiche, #38 in the fiche shown above.

I would not recommend Fastenal for small purchases of any kind. The couple of times I’ve tried I walked out after finding out $2 parts were $75…. They are definitely geared to industrial customers. BelMetric is a favorite of mine.

We discussed the “missing dizzy spring” on a thread here some time ago. Long story short, it is by design, the spring is not missing. Concentrate on the sticking advance issue. I’m willing to bet one of your choke nozzles is stuck down even if the cable is trying to push it up. Give both a good finger shove upward under each carb. Secondly check fuel deliverability. Pressure and volume.

A wonderful and admirable project. My thoughts. ditch the ammeter, voltmeter only. No need to have lots of high current wire running around with no purpose. and go aftermarket gauges without doubt. Don’t forget the AFR gauge as well. Vendors make 3d printed adapters for speedhut gauges for S30’s. Join the world of Deutsch connectors and/or weatherpack. Relatively small investments and easy to crimp and make waterproof connections. Like the brake line world, once you invest in the tooling (good pair of crimpers), all wiring issues become simple to handle rather than a pain in the, well you know. Since you still need to interface to OEM components, vintageconnections.com has many of the stock pins and connector shells you need.

I believe this may be that which you seek. PM me to discuss discussion of asset transferancing. Yes I’ve been drinking again.

I think the holes in the thing are slightly offset so you can't get the bolts back in if you put it in wrong as well

Leon Cutajar in Australia sells kits with all the parts and does rebuilds if you send him your hinges. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/651063596012440/

One more possibility. I chased a bad vibration for over a year until, almost as a last resort, i checked the spacers I was using on the front wheels. They were only 3/8 or a 1/4 thick, but they were SO BADLY MADE (cheap cast pot metal) that their thickness varied SO much that the wheel had enough run out to cause the vibration. Bought some 1/4 aluminum flat plate, drilled the damn holes myself and TOTALLY solved the steering wheel vibration. Bent or out of round rims can also cause the run out too. Just jack the car up at each wheel, rig up a pencil or something to “just touch” the rim near the edge and rotate the tire and watch the clearance to the pencil tip as the tire goes around. Should be dang near no variation, maybe 0.05 at most. A runout gauge is the best thing to use of course but just as a check you can almost hold your finger there and check.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21j/24-5556

This thing works surprising well https://zcardepot.com/collections/shocks/products/strut-gland-nut-wrench-240z-260z-280z

You can, but I’ve never used anything but anti-seize on the threads and never ever seen an oil leak there.