zKars

The wiring colors on the tach itself do not correspond to the wiring colours on the harness and on the diagram. On your tach picture , the Red/Black wire is the L (blue) wire in the wiring diagram. The green is the +12 line , the black is ground, I mean the two that connect to the white plastic terminal block on the tach. Connect the tach back to the wiring harness. Check continuity from the Red/Black wire on the back of the tach to the - neg side of the coil. If they are not connected, then find that resistor that the wire passes through. It is on the passenger side foot well up in behind the glove box near where the fat bundle of wires goes through into the engine bay. It has blue tape around a black rubber rectangle cube about the size of the end of your thumb. It is a 2200 ohm resistor inside. Blue wire coming and going from it. Also check that you +12v at the green wire on the back of the tach with the key on. Also confirm you have continuity between the black wire and the metal chassis anywhere on the car (ground). Gets those checks done and get back to us. Jim

I'm thinking the FSM might be a good tool for you. Look at www.xenonS30.com under the Reference tab for the manual. The Engine Mechanical (EM) chapter has good rebuild information and of course all the related specs. Cleanliness means more than anything (right next to part fitment)! Pretend you're doing heart surgury and the slightess bit of crap in the wrong place means death. Things you can't see, like oil passages, are the places to pay attention. Soap, water, compressed air and a clean place to work are your best friends at this stage. Jim

Ah, Owen hit the nail on the head. If it costs more time or money than I have or want to spend to get the car on the road so I can drive it sooner than later ("I just wanna drive something already"), then its too much. Totally relative to the individual and situation. Jim

Chesley: My apologies. Just a keyboard slip. I've been correcting people with a "K" vs a "C" in my last name ever since I could talk. Its even worse when getting wrong makes it involves a gender swap. My bad. What I am concerned with is safety. The car is weak now, bending it again will make it weaker in my opinion, due to age induced rust and fatigue since the accident. I say leave it alone. The only cheap way to improve strength is weld steel over that frame rail. Take care Jim

Chelsey Sure it can be fixed. Just takes time and money. This is a job for a frame shop that has to bend the body back into shape and get the correct stock dimensions. Then the bent frame rail and other bent parts have to be replaced and/or re-enforced. I'de take it in for an estimate, then you can decide if its worth it. It will not be cheap. And you will likely find other surprises in the form of rust and decay that's being hiding and getting worse since the accident, not to mention all the other usual places Z's rust that will be uncovered. Better you know the facts now than later. Safety first. Jim

Dan: Metric supply sucks for sure. I've been tempted a couple of times to order things from McMasterCarr in the US after similiar fruitless searches in Canada. I'm sure I I have extras of the tension arm and knuckle bolts too. The only "specialized" Z bolt I've ever been able to buy at a Canadian bolt supplier is a spindle pin replacement bolt. They are 5/8 NF Gr9 x 10.5 or 11 inch long I think. Parts cars are heaven for sure, if you can find them. Jim

Well you haven't asked me yet! How many would you like? I'm sure I have at least two extra's. Drop me an email to z240@shaw.ca and we'll get them on the way to you. Suppose you need the nuts too? Shocking that can't find 14mm x 85mm x 1.5 Gr 10.9 bolts at decent hardware supplier anymore. Jim

PM sent with some details and options. Let me know what you want to do via PM or my e-mail that I sent. Glad to help. Jim

Does that mean you still need a fuel cap? Let us know!

Dang, didn't notice the Japan thing. Not the first thing I have noticed this week, eh guys? I'de throw you a spare ZX dizzy or HEI module in the mail if you'de like. How far is Japan from Western Canada anyway? Maybe 5-10 miles, right?

Sorry Blue 72, the fusible link cover is a white plastic thing that pops off. I don't even see it on his 260 in the picture, maybe its behind his hand. That is a relay he's pointing to, looks like a horn relay but the "Real" one is under the dash and wires aren't the right color.. Follow those wires both ways and see where they go. Looks like a custom job for something non-stock. Gotta love a mystery. Jim

Since only Walter wants to play, here's a hint. They are more of a nut than a bolt.....

And I must learn to read more thoroughly and post with additional details. Here are pictures of the lower bracket that mounts with two 10mmx 1.25 bolts and one 10x1.25 stud (upper right). It has two 8x1.25 mm threaded holes for bolts that pass through the alternator body tabs and into this bracket. Jim

The reluctor gaps being way out of whack is your basic problem. If the dizzy shaft bearings are in good shape (no play you can feel), then you can use the guts for a pertronix conversion. But I'm feeling you're missing out on mechanical advance from your description of what's left of the guts. Surely there is much more performance you are missing out on! I'be be looking for a new ZX dizzy in good shape. Other options are to use any Z or ZX reluctor dizzy with a HEI module trigger. Pretty easy to put together and easy to replace a blown HEI module at any parts store. Not so with a E12-80 module. Hope this helps. Gotta spend a little money to get this fixed. Jim

Here is a couple of pictures to help.

The bumper bracket bolts are 10 x 1.25. There are lots of 10 x 1.5 bolts on our S30's, head bolts for starters. And starter bolts! . Think of any others? Now can anyone name any items on Z's that have a 10mm thread, but have 1.0 mm pitch? There are over 20 that I can think of on every car. Yes, its Friday and I'm bored.... Jim

Sorry, couldn't resist. Clearly things were not "complete" in that picture. As well as poking some fun, I meant to add a technical advice. About your sputtering, if it runs fine around town under 3000, nice smooth and strong pull, then starts to fall apart above 4, start with a fuel pressure check. Put a guage in the line after the fuel pump and arrange it so you can see while driving, unless the issue is there with the car parked too. Should never get below 3 psi and never above 5-6 either. If you are sure the pressure is fine across the band, and you trust your float levels, and your fuel system is clean and trustworthy (tank, lines, filter), then look for ignition problems. The ignition appears stock from the pictures, maybe points are not adjusted right or the plugs are not happy, or a poorly fitting rotor (heard of several problems around this issue). Always start with good old NGK BP6ES gapped to FSM specs. Few things to test anyway! Good luck! Love the orange man. Jim

The engine bay picture is intoxicating. Nice! I love that you added that touch of "a little something special" with the lower rad hose on the manifold, and thermostat gasket on the SU, and the yellow golf tee in the vent line! Perfect! : Jim

Well, of the three A11 600 000 units I have, 2 out of the 3 have the same absent pins that you see on one of yours. I can vouch that they were in running 280z's. With Mr. Blake chiming in with encouraging words, I'de plug it in and see if she flies. Little chance of harm. If you want mine with all the pins, just let me know. Jim

Welcome to the forum. Unfortuately that which you seek is best found at www.hybridz.org. Anyone here will gladly help with questions about original and stock features and common upgrades and problems, but advice on the swapping of drivelines is not a common topic here. What you need is found at the hybridz. All the best. Jim

Twenty seconds of searching and look what I found http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21274 Jim

There is a very detailed thread here that describes EXACTLY what you need. Search again. The driveshaft was not one of the items you need to find if I remember correctly, but check that thread to be sure. Last one I did was too long ago to remember that detail. I think I have a 2+2 drive shaft for you if it comes down to that. PM me. Jim

oh oh. The FSM shows there are quite a few pins not used on that one side, but there are two (21 20) that you need and that one has missing. The first 6 on the top right are 30-35 to the injectors, then two not used (28, 29), then 27 to the IAT in the AFM which is there, but 21 to the cold start and 20 to the efi relay are clearly missing. Now are they required? Maybe not. I'de plug it in and have a go. Get the FSM from www.xenons30.com and check it out. Section EF pages EF-25-50 I'll go check my spares and see if any of them have the same pin absense issue. All were working. Need one? Send me a PM Jim

I have purchased lots of connectors from these guys. Love 'em! www.vintageconnections.com Jim

Good advice tlorber. And don't forget to put grease in them after you put the zerks in. The one's I purchased lately came dry as a bone. At least they came withe zerks in the package. Jim