beandip

It seams that the L 20 is a late model engine that uses the Y 70 head and is a high reving engine but of 2000 ccs, this info so far came from a member in Austraila

My friend just bought a 360 with a L 28 built and it has a set of triples. Where is a source of information on these carbs ? there dosent seem to be a great deal of knowledge here of these on this site. Would like information on jetting and tuneing and the like. If you can help that would be great and in my asking for information if We come across rebuild kits I will pass on the info to you. Thanks

does any one have knowledge of these two items . A member just bought a 240 with this combination and it is a strong runner . So far no one knows any thing of the head at all and that the L 20 might have come from a Fairlady . Vary uncommon here in Portland !!!! No it is not a 4 banger. if any one knows anything of either the head or block please post , thanks beandip

Is there any way to research the background of an engine using the ser. number ?? trying to see what the origional car it was used in its a L-20 block.

Agan welcome , and congrats. on the Z-car . You can find used good round tops at the bone yards at least we can here in Oregon. I have a friend that is parting out a '71 , and the last time I talked to him he still had the carbs . The car they came from he bought for the diff and trans. and drove it home and it was running fine. Most likely all you will need to do is mount them and adjust . Give me an e-mail and I will get the two of you togither .

What ever floats your boat. I prefer to drive my Z , I dont mind working on it at all , but driving it is much more fun for me. Besides the performance is so much better and the smoothnes of the overall driveability , for me is better after I pulled the duel point dist. . But that is my prefrence, all the best to you .

When you do the hook up and connect the wireing if when hooked up the tach wont work you just reverse the wires and volia. there is a web site called zcar.com if you go there and select the early dates of 70-83 you will come up with a page like the forum here, in the upper border there is a search section key on that and then type in johnH240 and fine the posting on ignition up date . If you dont have any luck email me and I will help you ,but john has posted a step by step , also yoou can e-mail him , he really knows his stuff . He knows me as luggnut73

no that isn't true . I have been using the stock tach now for over a year , it just depends on how you hook it up.

If you do go that way and get one , would you please let me know how it works for you ?? I have seriously been thinking about installing a Jacobs only I need to many other things first like a paint job. It comes down to $ and where to put it first. You should first get the '79zx dist. because you are going to need a better dist than the old one with points. I forget what year z you are driving , but if you are running points the coil is only supplied with 8volts to keep from frying the points. When you install a electronic ign, you supply the coil with 12v and remove the ballest resister. I picked my complete ignition coil dist . with cap and rotor and almost new 8mm spark plug wires. $75.00 at the All Z boneyard here in Portland. You need the part that the dist. bolts on to that fits to the engine because the old one wont work also get the bracket that holds the coil because the new zx coil is larger . You will be able to use your stock tach with the '79 set up. Be sure that the dist. has a little black box on the side and it is marked 12 80 . If it is from a later engine and it is marked 12 94 it will not work rite and will retard the spark at upper rpms. There is a lot of help available on the net for this mod . Jacobs advises that you increase the spark plug gap to about 60k or there abouts at least they did for my v-8 .The Jacobs is a real flame thrower ! All the best to you. P.S. I just looked your chev. would also benefit from one also.

I installed one on my ford truck and it improved the mileage ,performance and overall smoothness . I have been contimplating one for the Z but it works so well with the zx that I cant see how it could improve , however I know it would. the Jacobs even burns so clean that it is reported that you can go 20% longer on oil changes. I still change at 3k however. these things are not cheep but are a vary quality product. I pulled the booklet on mine and here is the web site. jacobselectronics.com shoot them a e-mail also here is there phone # and I recommend you give them a call , they can supply alot of information. 1800-627-8800 Let me know what you decide and the best of luck to you . What I bought for my v-8 was a OMNI MAGNUM TEAM EZ cost $399.00

O , sort of like plexiglass , thanks mate

what the heck is perspex

I do not have personal experience with the strength of the differential but from what I have read on various websights it seems bullet proof. I think that you should access hybredz.com they are dealing with such conversions all the time

I used it to repair a prop on a inboard ski boat that had hit a rock and bent the prop and tore a quater sized piece off. I hammered the prop stright and used JB weld and filed it down to match the rest of the metal. We skied behind the thing for 5 days and saved my friend's vacation.

I am running the complete '79zx ignition and it is flawless so far. it's been on the car for about a year and is the best mod I have done . the SUs were changes before I bought it.

He has eraced his posts and doesent want to respond

I have never used it in that aplacation however I once used it on a prop on an Inboard boat that hit a rock and knocked out a chunk of the prop about the size of a quarter. We strighteded the blade and repaired the missing area with J B weld and dressed it off with a file when it was set and used the boat for water skiing for the rest of the camping trip. And it held just fine , It's strong stuff , be sure to clean off the areas where it is to bond vary well. If it dosn't work satisfactory remove it. Nothing to loose.

I am a number 6

I am all in grey primer at this time and I have early front bumper, and no rear bumper at this time . Also I am running a overrider on the fornt. I just received a letter form a Z-club in the area on activities going on around here in Aug. . send me your e-mail and I 'll forward the info .

Congrats. you are right about once in a life time. Others have advised draining the fluids and I do also as well as the Marvel oil in the cylinders, one thing I think is vary important is to get that oil changed BEFORE you start turning the engine over, no sence in pumping all that old stuff through the block. After you do get the car running and driving be vary aware of the temp gage . often cars that have been sitting fro long periods will have the water pump fail and or leak . If the car is bone stock as you say you might want to keep it that way. If you do though you must keep all stock down to the nuts and bolts, and exhost , if you dont you compromise the value . One more thing drain the gas out of the tank before turning things over , get that varnish out of the tank. Keep us informed on what is going on and again all the best of luck seems like you have it. Buy a Lotto ticket!!

I live in the Ceder Mill area and I drive a '73 , there are several of us around the area.

I can remember getting my first car , that was 1955 . Any way all the best of luck with it , by the way where are you ? One thing when asking for info or help dont use code like btw , it some times is frustrating trying to figure out what is asked. As was said before replace the plug wires , and clean the plugs. replace the points if you see they are pitted or burned , that is if you know how to do the instelation. For the time being forget the compression . The engine will run fine with the compression that you stated , just not as smooth and the power will be less. Being that the car has been sitting that long with new oil the rings may loosen up if they are stuck and likewise the valves may have a little rust and will reseat and the compression may change. I would change the oil before driving or running the engine any more and add some Rislone , 1 qt , to the new oil either that or some Marvel Mistery oil the same ammount. This will help to clean and loosen things . Pull the pluggs and clean and gap them , look at the dist, cap and see if the contacts are burned or croaded scrape off the deposits if found and the same with the rotor. Replace them when you have the bucks . This should get you going . What about the gas ? Are you running the old gas that has been the tank all this time or did you drain the tank and put in fresh?? When you do get fresh gas and if you live in t he USA , the new fuel may loosen crud and plug the fuel filter , just be aware of this and replace it if nessary. Just ask and we will be here for you . Good luck!

Alot depends on how it is cared for and treated . I change the oil at 3k and filter . I dont try to see if it will run to redline, I run hard on the twistys but keep the RPMs at a realistic rate rarely over four grand . I have over 200,000 miles and the engine burns no oil and has a compression of 145 all across th e board. It is mostly stock execpt for Round tops and a '79zx ignition. I vary much like to drive this car and can see no point is GERNADEING the engine just to satisfy my eago.

I have no problem with the mod. from what I have read the ford rather than the small block chev works the best . the cast iron block of the stright 6 is a heavy engine so the v8 would be a performar . I have done simular swaps years ago in the late fiftys and early sixtys . Building a sleeper is great fun . I would like to drop a big turbo v-6 in a PT- cruser. As far as my 240 I enjoy the stright six and the way the little six banger does its's thing.

I sure wish they used him designing the 350 dont you!!!