beandip

try this it works for me. apply wd 40 to the center of the drum where it contacts the axel and let it soak. If you have kroil so much the better. if you have a dead blow hammer use it other wise use a rubber mallot and strike the drum on the front corner where it curves to the top, hit on one side and then the opposite side back and forth and check the center for movement and keep repeating , you then can try to go form top to bottom. what you are trying to do is to get the drum to rock sligtly back and forth, and this will start the movement out . on reinstall use antiseize on the axel to drum contact area. It seems counter productive to strike the drum in the front but it does work to loosen the center which is what is holding things up . If you strike the drum from the rear you can brake fins and or crack the drum .Good luck Gary

I have used the info. from this site for the past 2yrs. and found them to be right on the $ give them a look there is two sites look at them both . I would like to know what you people think of this information site . Gary www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html geocities.com/garage/head.html

sounds like it is running to retarded if it wants to run on. Could also be too rich if the carbs are out of adjustment. Do one thing at a time other wise you will not know what is causing what. could you have inserted the dist shaft over to farr and retarded the timing that far?

My friend just bought a datsun 2000 roadster. Now thats a fun little car to play with it's 68 and has plenty of spunk , and they are sort of a pre z car to boot.

I agree with Daniel . Most likely the trouble is with a choke that is sticking or out of adjustment. Try this are you familiar with the adjument of the SUs , if not , there is a rubber line that runs from the float chamber to the adjustment "knob" . that "knob " is the rich-lean adjustment for the fuel mixture and it is also connected to the choke linkage because when you pull the choke lever it is supposed to lower this "knob and the shaft that it is connected to. So when you push the lever to turn OFF the choke , feel under the carb and see if this knob all the way up by pushing up on it NOT turning it. some times the thing will stick down slightly and that will flood a lot of gas into the engine. Now if the thing is sticking check the hose and see if it is stiff or brittle , this can cause the choke to stick. If the hoses are bad get replacement hose from NISSAN the hose at the parts store is not soft enough. Z thearpy has the hose also. Just some info. this adjustment knob ,for lack of a better word, is the adjuster for the gross jet and the main source of fuel to the engine so when it is lowered it causes the mixture to richen as the meatering needle that closes the jet opening is moved out of the jet and much more fuel enters the engine.

there is a web site Zcar.com and in that site go to 70-83 Tech Discussions Forum and if y ou look in the upper margin there is a search , click on that . When it comes up type in a search for john240H and he has posted a detailed step by step how to , for this modification. If you have never used this site I think y ou will find it a good source of info. After dealing with the different people on this site I have found that for the most part the people that answer do so just to see there name in print , and only a few really know there stuff and John is one of them. Another is normthe12secdude He is vary knowledgeable, and can spell too, he is into drag racing and is from Seattle area. johnH240 when you type in his name put in also ignition upgrade .

I am going to be out for a few hours so if y ou dont get a reply right away thats why

If when you get the engine started and if the tach dosn't work reverse the two wires to the dist. the tack will work with the zx ignition . You know that you remove the ballest resister and just connect the two wires togither. The new systime runs on 12volts as apposed to the old unit that started on 12 and ran on 8 so that you dident burn th e points. Did you get the zx coil and mounting bracket also?

all the ignition parts are right there on the dist. the module is mounted on the side of the dist, it is a little black box and is marked 12 80 and it has two blade connecters on the bottom I think they are marked A & B I dont remember for sure but If there is a question I have th e info in my library.

the part that I am talking about is the part that is between the bottom of the dist. shaft and the engine block. The dist. bolts on to it. The dist. has a short shaft , about 5" long and this bolts onto the part I am talking of, and then this part is fitted to the block. I cant think of another way to describe it. There is one on the stock 240 but it will not work properly with the new zx dist. I cant remember if it is too short or long or what I just know you need the one from the zx. If need be I can dig around and see if I can find the old dist , I am pritty sure I saved it . Why I dont know, I guess I am just a pack rat. Gary P.S. If you have any futher questions e-mail me direct it is much faster. gmoisant@attbi.com

I just saw it mentioned earlier and wondered about it. Here in the states the 260 was '74 only and from then untill '78 was a 280.Thanks again Gary

I am partial to the tinted head light covers and have heard that in some states that they are not allowed only the clear ones . Is there any one out there that knows if they are allright in Oregon ?

In the pics. you pointed out the lower part of t he fenders on both sides. the best advise I can give you is to pull the fenders off. What you will find is that there is a drain that drains the cowl and dumps the water in a void in that area , there is supposed to be a little opening at the bottom but debris will clog the hole and not allow it to drain properly . This is also a cause of the rocker pannel to rust under the doors. I am in the process of doing the vary thing after seeing my friends car and what he found in that area. It is a design flaw in my openion, because if leaf matter and dirt cloggs the drain at the bottom it is a major rust problem and the metal is only primed there at the factory thats all. The cowl drain is about an inch and a quorter in size but it dumps on to a shelf and then down into a void. As far a "bondo"it was never ment to be used like plaster and filled large voids. I will never use it if it is not backed by metal because it needs to be sealed from the back , like through a hole, it should be only used in thin ammounts and spairingly . Lazy body pounders are the ones that give it a bad name.

How do you chase a car that is wrecked and not moving ?? vary slowly I guess . I do have a real question what years are considered a 260 , here they are 280s , really I was just wondering . An old septic tank

Dazzzza wrong answer ! alfadog when you get your coat dont forget your hat and leave your worries on the door step , and allways drive on the sunny side of the street.

Man I dont think so , I have no desire to own a car that I dont understand and need to have a electro cardigram to fix. Been there done that and have the tee shirt! By the way I use to hunt rabbits and quail in your neck of the brush. Gary

Yes I have an openion, Really I have been driving my 240 for the past 18months with a '79zx ignition that I bought at All Z , it's a local boneyard here in Portland Or. , any way I installed the whole thing including coil . I even took the plugg wires because they looked new and were 7mm silicone filled . The inprovement has been remarkable and performance is great past red line. I couldent ask for better. I t works for me , and I still run the stock tach. If you look for this set up be sure to also obtain the mount that the dist. bolts on to because the early one is not compatable aslo get the coil mount , the new coil is larger. Another thing there is a module on the side of the dist . and it is marked 12 80 that is the one that you want , the newer units after '80 wont work right . My complete set up cost $75.00 and thats was every thing.

how do you say the word for the little bug that makes HONEY . if a Z sounds like Zeeee then what does a Bee sound like . And dont say buzz. Hi from an old septic tank

thanks mate b zzzzzzzzzing ya

In my L-24 I am running a '79zx dist, and am going to replace the cap and rotor. I just wondered if any one had an openion on the brands of parts. I use ngk BP6RS plugs which I will stay with but what about the cap and rotor , DAIICHI OR BOSCH , or one that is a F2010-27437. I am not aquainted with any of these and wondered if they are with aluminum or brass contacts . The cost is not an issue it quality that I want . Is the F2010 Nissan ?? I have a new set of ignition 8mm wires . Thanks in advance .

I have been where you are in this, and I feel for you . My prayers are with you and your family . All the best . Gary

If you are looking for a parts car thats one thing but if you are looking for a project, believe me get the cleanest rust free car you can afford. To restore one that is rusted and or needs body work and paint and just a little tlc. can get vary expensive. Interior parts are not cheep if you want the car to look stock. And even if not it is not cheep . Paint is going to be at least $1300. for a real good job and that is not with any body damage. With a good paint job the bumpers if now really sharp will look shabby as well as the trim around the windows , and then the interior , an so on an so on an so on, find a clean driver with no rust and go from there.

I wish someone smarter than I would come u p with an automatic shut off of the electric fuel pump , if in an accident you flip over or if in a collision. As an retired fireman I have seen enough that I dont want to be french fried in my own gas. If it could be connected to the oil pressure sender so if no oil pressure then the fuel pump would stop. Just a thought .

I have a '73 and now it has a louver on the hatch window. I have only had the car for 11/2 yrs . It had a couple sets of holes in the hatch when I bought it and I found the louver set . There are hinges at the top , and yes they are so you can wash the window. at the bottom are cross bolt locks to hold the bottom down. The louvers have zero effect on visiability, I can see just as good as without and they keep the car cooler in the sun and sofar I can see no draw backs , as another plus , the contents in the rear are not seen easily from outside. I did notice that it rattled at first but after I put on new tires , no more vibration and no more rattle

from what I can see you already have too much time on your hands