beandip

I have a '73 but with and auto tranny. dont laff. It pulls strong up to 4K and then it shifts. Now I can manually shift and keep on up in the RPM range but I really like to drive this car and realise that it is stock and has overall over 200,000 miles on her and even with a rebuilt engine with about 100K on it I dont want to gernade the engine just to satisfy my eago. My brother in-law bought a $40,000. boat and he saw that the tack showed 5K as the red line and taking it out for a test run just ran it up to red line and ran it up the river,this was a brand new engine, well about a mile away he blew the engine all to hell. Case in point dont believe all you read and use your good cents. Yes new or near new engines will and can be run to the extreems in RPM . But for what purpose ? Do you like to work on the car or drive it ?? Also going fast costs bigg$$ keep that in mind.

thanks for the info I was not aware that the vent line from the filler neck went any ware other than what I expected the tank . Good info , thanks. I'll work from there.

When I fill the tank in my '73 I get fumes inside ,and I know that this is not an unusual thing in Z-cars. What my question is . Has anyone eliminated the maze of hoses that go to the evap, tank and caped them off and vented the cap?? I dont need to worry about emissions, and have driven cars for years that were vented in this way with no problem. I read once that if this is done that you will or might, have air pockets in the tank ,and I find this hard to believe. But dont know for sure because I havent tried it. It just seemed to me that it would be a simple solution to a smelly problem. It seems like a design flaw big time ,venting the fueltank inside the passanger compartment, as a fireman I know I dont want to be french fried if I turn the thing over with all thoes hoses running inside from the fuel tank. I Dont feel right even replacing all the hoses for that reason. If anyone has done this , capped them off and has any input please pass it on . Thanks

By all means check with the state! Here in Oregon the 74 was exemped at the first of this year . and the '75 will be at the first of next year. So if the car is in great shape and rust in not a problem , Its somthng to look into you might be able to get a rider or a exemption or somthing to have the thing fixed if it wont pass. dont do anything to it and just keep extending untill the first of the year , that is if it will be exemped in 2003. then you are home free. The info on the round tops is correct ,they work much better and are much easier to adjust . Your present intake manifould is good so no need to change that you will need a early aircleaner and some of the early linkage , and you are good to go. If you do get a Z withe the early carbs and y ou need help in adjustment just e-mail me .. Good luck

I own a Late '73 the born on date is 8-73 . She just turned 200K and is running great altho the engine and tranny were rebuilt about 100k miles back. Running great with early SUs and a 79zx Ignition. I am '64 and have been into cars since I was 16 and bought my first car, a 2 yr. old 52 chev . and a year later I bought a '32 three window Ford . I married my present wife 43 yrs ago and we have raised our 4 children 2 boys and 2 girls . oldest is our son '41 and youngest '35 . So far I am the oldest posting here, which dosent make me feel young thats for sure. I have wanted one of these cars since '70 when one of my co workers bought one, and it was love at first sight. I had to wait a while untill the kids were all grown and I could afford another hobby and had the time and place to keep it. Well I purchiced my '73 two yrs ago and have been mostly just driving it. It would hardly run when I bouhgt it but after a complete tune it runs like a watch. I was born and raised in Van Nuys Calif. suburb fo L A . I was withe the L.A. Fire Dept . for 22+ yrs. and retired in 1984 and we all moved to Portland Ore. and love it , the wet does get boring about this time of year. Back to the Z . I am in the process of replacing the floor on the passanger side and stripping out the interior and pulling the engine to detail the engine bay. Hope to have the car painted this summer. At present my plan is to get the z down to a rolling shell and have the inetrior and engine bay sanblasted , repair what is needed and installing a '82 280zx engine that is on a stand at present. It has been interesting reading the posts from all over world. I want to thank all for all the help you have given me in the past. I know V-8s but these little 6s are a horse of a different color. My best to all . Gary

I personally love the fender mounts they are the most useful because you hardly need to glance to the side to use them. The clamp ons are just that . They fit on the lip of the door and clamp on with a couple of set screws. If it were me I wouldent drill holes in the fenders and screw up the beautiful paint job , fantastic color , steller job. Gary

It sounds like a lean pop , if you blip the throttle to wide open and let it go back to idle , is that when you get the pop ? If so just richen , turn the mixture adjustment clockwise about a 1/4 turn and try the test again and repete untill it no longer pops. As far as the fuel line get the line from therpy , it needs to be vary flexable because when you pull the choke lever the gross jet needs to drop and that is what is connected to the other end o f the line , if the line is to stiff it will bind the unit and it may stick in the down position and will dump unwanted fuel into the engine. You probibly already know all this but for those that dont I wanted to mention it all. All the best of luck.

I bought a used sway bar that I thought would fit but today when I got under the car , the hangers on the body are inline with the front differential mount. The bar is stright where it transverses the car and it looks like a sway bar needs to have a bout a 21/2 inch bend, in order to clear the mount. I havent seen one on a car and what I am wondering is that maby my car , being built 8/73 which is after the model year change that I may have a '74 body pan. Any one out there with a '74 , if you could take a look at the rear sway bar and let me know if there is a bend in it where it passes the drive line. Thanks Gary

No your present intake manifold is fine , in fact if it is a #36 some people think that it is better than most. You will need to do some changes in the linkage and I f you are running the stock air cleaner that also needs to be from the early carbs. Thats all I can think of. My '73 has the early SUs , they are simple and work great ! ! You should be able to come up with a set for $ 100. to $150. I know of a complete set that are good , he has a the whole setup let me know if you want his address.. ZZZZZEEEE ya .

Reakky great that you had a positive enperience , I hope that you took notes of the trip expreiences. Look at zcar,com and read the account of the father and son that did a simular thing . Pass it on . Great that you were able to find the car of your dreams . Gary

So you decided to make the trip anyway. Thats great if thats what ylu really want to do. I really hope the car is all that you expect and want !! Take a journal and wright down your experiences every night when you have the time. If you do you will realise afterwords that it was really worth it. I really hope that every thing goes well for you , it should be a great and fun experience for you , somthing to remember. This is such a beautiful country so see, please take the time to absorbe and enjoy the beauty. Gary

I have a question about car ins. is there a company out there that will provide a policy for the proper value of the car. I bought my Z a '73 for only $500. but have like most of us put much more than that into it. Before I spend $600. on body work and $1500. on paint I want to find out what I can expect from an insurance co . , after the work is all done and I get T - boned , that is becides the shaft. I presently have Farmers . I have AAAA driving record , zero tickets , no accidents, in last 40 +yrs. , and the Z is an occasional driver, at least as far as they are concerned. I also have a truck and my wife has her own car. Any input is apriciated thanks .

I contacted mike yesterday and he is aware of it and is working on it .

Cant you take a cab to the airport what the hell , if you are going to fly to cal. to get a car cant you take a cab or comutter from a hotel or somthing like that. On the cal. end how were you going to get to the car and a place to stay ? You should be able to rent a car for a couple of bucks untill yuou are ready to leave for home. I hate to see you pass on the car of your dreams because of a transportation problem . Put it here on the web and someone will drive you. I MAY SEE YOU BUT I WILL SEE YOU WALKING !!

Welcome , or should I say gday mate . It's good to have you abord. There are several ausies here in the club and I think they wouold be the best sorrce of used parts . the best of luck to you Gary

I like the shirt with the red white and blue Z logo small in front and large in back . Colors would be better than white only for the shirt , but what color ? Either red or blue would deminish the looks of the logo. Enjoy the ride would also look great. my $ .02 worth

I am not sure I understand the question about the indicater being too short. If you mean reaching the turn indicator with your hand on the wheel , I have never had that problem. but I drive a left hand drive if that makes a difference .

another thing the car was running great when he drove it home from Washington, so I dont think they need any work , just adjustment and we can talk you through that no problem,

I have a friend that is parting out a early 240 and he is selling the intake setup . you should keep your intake as it is most likely a 36 and is a good one . The round tops and linkage and he even has a real clean air cleaner the whole thing . For less than $200. for the whole thing and shipping from Portland Or. shouldent be that bad. If interested get back to me . I dont want to give out his address without his permition.

Ed thanks for the info thats what I was wondering I dident want the ride when normal street driving to be stiffer at least not a great deal stiffer. I realise that there are always trade offs. Thanks again.

Yes the early 240 wheels can be refinished. I refinished mine a couple of months ago and it turned out like brand new. I recently bought a wheel for a guy out of country and was going to ship to him and he changed his mind, so I am going to re do it and sell it on e-bay. Apearently there were wooden wheels on some of the first Zs. Because an aquaintance of mine had a '70 that he wrecked and the wooden wheel shattered and he still has a piece of it in his tool box. Sport Z magazine had a how to article in it , By the way it's a great magazine . Only Z - cars.

Just a sugestion, before you do a modification such as that you best check the highth requirements of he headlights and also the placement as to there visibility from the side , like when aproaching an intersection. DOT and the dept. of Motor vehicles have specifications reguarding this stuff. Just thought I would pass on info. good luck.

I am contemplating the installation of a rear sway bar on my Z . What I am wondering is , is there anyone out there that has done this and what was the difference in handeling and ride? This dosn't appear to be to hard of a Mod. there are what appears to be hangers on the underbody from the factory . This '73 is a vary late car according to the info on the door . I am presently satisfied with the ride but can see where there is room for much improvement in the twisties as I get some bottoming out and body role on hard cornering , I just do not want to sacrifice to much of the good ride in day to day driving. I do not race or plan to ,just want a solid driver. Any info. appriciated thanks.

escanlan and I have diccussed this vary thing in the past and I also think the present logo Z emblem on one of the metal badge type medallians mounted on the grill or license plate would show pride and class. keep up the great work.

Just pull off the horn center then just remove the large nut behind the wheel, no I mean the nut attached to the shaft , not you. If you just wiggle the wheel from side to side it should loosen and come off.