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12.9 should be plenty! Even 12.5 should spin it.

Thanks for the reply Garrett By texting with the Captain I was able to get to the right place I was stripping hatch locks because I am going to try to get some thimbles plated. So if you open the edges of the face cap up the spring and button will come up This is the exploded setup Then I couldn't figure out how to get this apart So if you press this lock wafer in it is designed to go out the front. But you need the correct key!!! I did not have the correct key for all my locks. IT will come out the front with enough "encouragement" 😉 I don't believe this did any permanent damage to the thimble So he are the exploded locks The thimbles are pot metal, like the gas door latches. Many chromers have concerns about plating potmetal. We'll see. I have a price from a guy on Facebook marketplace to do them. It was a good price but he's concerned they might peel. Still working on who I want to use

This thread seems to have gone awry. Are Jalexquijano and Johnny wick the same person? How did the name get changed? And how did 72 Datsun 240z get inserted in here? Is this our new AI world? ...just took a look around and see that Jalex and Johnny wick are the same. Did not know that a person could erase their screen name from the past and take on a new identity. Weird stuff!!

You push this special wafer in and slide the sleeve off the back of the cylinder. Do you have the original key for that lock? If so insert it into the lock and push the special wafer in and slide the sleeve off the back of the cylinder. If pushing this special wafer in isn't enough, then you may need to wiggle/twist the sleeve left and right a bit to free it up from the wafers in the tumbler (which could be snagging the inside surface of the sleeve a bit). I remember mine being a bit finicky. The inside of your sleeve may look like this: The wafers in the tumbler will grab... (hang) on the wear grooves a bit. So, you push in the special wafer, which when not pressed in sticks out far enough to keep the sleeve from sliding off the back of the tumbler. And rotate the sleeve left and right to get the wafers to align with the slot in the inside of the sleeve (and not hang on the wear grooves)

Thank you all for your comments regarding the suspension and the carb restoration. I have some good ideas now how to proceed. Vapor or dry-ice blasting seems to be a good solution. For the moment, they will remain in the box until i completed some other projects. So a few days ago, I got this delivery of a Nissan Factory adjustable Competition / Sports option / NISMO suspension set, and I finally found the time to do the research. First some Details, I got the two sets (front and rear) from two different sellers in JP, and it's a lucky coincidence that they actually fit / belong together. The Part numbers are: Front: 54303-E4622 & 54302-E4622 (Atsugi) Rear: 55303-E4622 & 55302-E4622 (AMPCO) On all four strut housings, each of the two platforms / adjustment rings are adjustable in height, and none is fixed, like they are on some other kits. I assume that those sets were made by both Atsugi and AMPCO, that's why they have two different brands stamped on them, as most factory suspension for the Z was available from both suppliers at the same time. The suspension set is listed in the January 1978 US sports option catalogue as "Gas variable type" and you can also see the Spring length of 171,5mm (front) and 205.5mm (rear). The same set is also listed in both Marc and September 1978 Japanese sports option catalogues. It is also mentioned that those parts are approved for Group 3 / closed circuit racing and are harder than the factory suspension setup and allows you to lower the car. The older race and rally preparation manual still lists the predecessor with the end numbers -E4621. Please note that the springs remained the same -E4621, even with the new -E4622 suspension. As the older -E4621 is also listed in the March 1976 Competition parts catalogue, my guess is that this kit was introduced around in 1976 or 1977. According to Alan Thomas, the term "gas filled" refers to a system where the "open design" dampers are oil-filled but gas-charged to help stop the oil from foaming during heavy race use. Unfortunately, the previous owner opened the rear suspension and now that gas is gone. See here for more details on the open / cartridge strut inserts comparison: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2017-01-19/240z-the-ultimate-guide-to-factory-suspension-and-options/. According to Alan, there are companies that add a threaded hole to the upper strut section with a valve, so you can add gas again later. But he also mentioned, that the Gas is only really required for heavy race use and it will work without it. Alan was also kind enough to share this photo of the factory gas filling setup / tool. To be honest, i don't really know how it works but it looks nice 🙂 You may have noticed that the front struts came with these additional aluminum spacer disks. According to the above competition manuals (Part no 12), those were used on two-seaters built after 1974 and all four-seater cars, but they were meant to be used on the Rear suspension of the car. It appears that people used them also in the front to gain additional ride height. The competition manual mentions that they are made from aluminum (which mine are) and are 20mm thick. I quickly measured the thickness, and it appears I was lucky to get a free set of probably rare Nissan competition spacers included with my suspension. Remember that mystery adjustable suspension I bought a while ago? I never figured out which car it belongs to. It seems it's not listed in any of the competition / NISMO / Sports option catalogues i found. But now, i finally got to compare them, and it appears that it's definitely not for the 240Z / Fairlady Z. (Left = Mystery, right = 240Z) The length of the strut housing, the length of the thread, the strange upper mounts, and most obviously the brake caliper / brake dust protection shield mounts are completely different. Also, the mystery set got an integrated switch to adjust some settings. Lower = mystery, Upper = 240Z: Since the mystery set is quite incomplete (it only came with one spring, some of the adjustment rings seem not to be original, etc). I think the best I can make out of it is to keep the original adjustment rings from the mystery set as spares for my original set. The smaller, lower adjustment rings have a strange size of 101mm. That shiny one, which seemed to be an aftermarket / homemade item, had a diameter of 100mm, while all original Nissan ones had 101mm. So I'm very happy now to have a complete set, even though from two different manufacturers, but that doesn't really matter, as it's only a small stamp on the strut housing which is different. I will yet have to figure out how I can restore them back to factory, especially the strut inserts might be tricky to find a good solution, but it's definitely doable and definitely worth to bring back this set to former glory. A big hat-tip goes out to Alan for all the Inputs and the nice photos. Your knowledge is of huge value to me, a and I owe you at least a gin-tonic next time we sit at a bar again!

You are right

@Trnelson John Yarbrough here and was wondering what Bosch interchange p/n did you buy for your 123. Just bought one and hopefully the problem has been rectified since your post. No instructions what so ever and trying to just simply drop it in on my new motor sitting engine on the stand in my shop. Any advice would be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance….john

All three of these user names are the same person IMO... Not sure how that's accomplished but it's still the OP posting in his own thread

I don't think it's the alternator. Your battery would be much lower than 12.5 if the alternator was dead. It's probably either a bad starter, a bad wire or a dirty connection...

I'm not sure if those special springs had any markings on it. Either way, the spring part number for Left and Right is the same (see catalogue pages above) and the fronts are much shorter (171,5mm), so it's in my opinion definitive a rear spring, which is shorter than factory specs, for whatever reason. My guess is that they had set the adjustable suspension for a strong compression (low car position) for a long time, for whatever reason, which caused one to become more compressed. I checked the winding-counts and they're the same. I don't know how these springs have been stored over the last years, but either that, or have race use caused that. But I might be wrong.

Those are good. Battery and alternator seem fine. I do believe you could have starter issues.

Something isn't right. You should only have 1 wire to the negative of the coil unless you are using a tachometer from a 74 or later Z.

My gauge reads just like yours, needle lines up on the right side of the M but like everyone else's it isn't too hot. It's the gauge. Those laser temperature guns work good but if you don't have one a meat thermometer worked for me. This is idling in my garage, thermostat open and flowing coolant. I see your choke light is off. Glad you got that fixed.

I suggest verifying that the engine is actually heating up beyond normal temps by checking it with a laser temp gun. After a complete restoration of my car, my temp gauge is reading higher than yours, but the temps at various locations on the head and thermostat housing are 175 to 195. I plan to remove the gauge and adjust it's reading by changing the position of a certain "adjustment" screw inside the gauge.

I wondered about the cars I find in Junkyards, I always try and save the vin tags but I never have seen any JY cars listed as unknown owners on the registries. I looked over Phil's just a little and only saw owners stating their car was totaled and sold at auction etc. but not cars found in a JY where you don't know the owner or history. I would think this info would benefit the registries with data of known scrapped cars. I expect these two would cross data to fill in gaps one either ones pages.