Leaderboard

Well, I identified the problem causing the relay to click. I had one of the dash harness connectors to the fuse box on upside down, and since I didn’t check it against what I plugged it into, all those wires were going to the wrong things. I figured this out after finding no continuity from Steve’s diagnosis process above and trying to figure out where the red ground wire might connect to power. I pulled the connector and fixed that. The relay no longer clicks when the battery is connected, so ON TO THE NEXT!

A prior discussion long ago about the intention of this part led us to believe (guess?) that it is a safety item in the case of a crash, to prevent the rack from rotating to preserve steering control by preventing the steering shaft u-joint angle from locking due to excessive angle. Or if the bushings wear out or fall out etc. Can’t imagine what else it might be for. I don’t think there is a force tendency to rotate the rack during normal driving. The tie rod ends rotate freely. Just me thinking out loud. Well, typing out loud. I’m likely to have a well used example attached to a old steering rack around here someplace if the need arises.

It's an R-Factory airbox originally designed for the S20 twin cam engine. I flipped it over and used it upside down on my L24. It has integral air horns welded to the base plate. Short/medium height Mikuni-Solex/Weber type standard air horns would fit if you modified the base plate to accept them.

Thanks for the info. I will be checking into that part for pricing and shipping costs. Exactly what I am looking for even though I am not sure of how important it may be for the steering rack, but apparently the Z engineers considered it necessary. Thanks again, John-Lugoff, SC.

Snagged this from a driving video I shot a couple of days ago. I have just stopped from pulling into my driveway. Temp gauge reading is actually even higher than I was saying - looks like the needle is cutting through the P in TEMP. Thanks @Captain Obvious for the pictures and comments about adjusting. It is a bit of a pain to get the gauge out at this point, but it is on my short list.

I bought them as well!

Glad to see you back @Racer X. I understand it’s been quite a journey for you. I hope you are doing well friend.

A little update on my 3.1L! This motor was actually finished 3 years ago, but was tragically in a shop fire. Luckily the engine wasn’t too close to the flames and it was spared. It’s getting close to finished and then going into my 1971 240z! My 3.1L 10.2:1 compression ratio 88.5mm bore. N42 block. Sonic tested. LD crank by marine crankshaft. Crank Off-set grind to 84.6 stroke. Finish rod journals @ 1.8889" Thrust Finish 1.27”R & R plugs with threaded plugs Dynamic Balance Ion-Plasma nitride, straighten & micro-Micro polish all journals E31 head. Port work by Andrew Kazanis Dsi valves, titanium retainers. Isky springs. Bonk cam. I got it in NOS or near new condition prior to porting. Rebello JE Eagle pistons and toyota rods 221 CFM flow at .45-.5 lift. With rougAndrew Kazanis sizes. Mine is 88.5x88.5x.25x3.14159x 84.6x6 /1000 = 3122cc Thank you Andrew Kazanis for all the help and your magically porting work.