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So... I ran into the same thing with the clutch master cylinder tonight. This cylinder was a used part also. It looked to me like it was replaced by the previous owner as part of the fresh work he did to the car. Hmmm - actually, I think that was 28 (plus 6 years in my possession) ago! Anyway, the little valve was stuck in this one also. For any used cylinder, that valve should be checked and lubricated with a bit of rubber grease before installing the cylinder. I was able to get the clutch operational, and the brakes barely so. I need another person to assist to bleed them properly. And it is quite possible that the brake booster is not functional. Anyway, I took it for a brief drive in the neighborhood. It has been about 9 years now since I drove a Z. It's tiny! Turning around to back up, I was struck by how narrow, and also, how little there is of "car" behind me! I was reminded again of how awful the throttle linkage is. It has a lot of initial resistance, so you press a little harder, and then a little more, and then it "let's go", causing more acceleration than intended. As I recall, I will be able to sort that out by adjusting the linkage and bending the gas pedal arm as necessary. Oh, and that exhaust stink. Hahaha! Even when you get them running well, if you spend much time behind the tail pipe, you stink like you've been running a 2 cycle leaf blower. While it starts up easily and has good throttle response, it doesn't sound or feel like it is tuned. When I give it enough throttle to go past 2500 rpm, it acts like it is lean - it doesn't want to rev. I will need to check timing again (static and dynamic), and check set/mixture screws again, carb sync again, etc. Anyway, it runs!

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Also, here is an image from an old Mitchell collision estimating guide from 1975. I uploaded the the 240Z/260Z section to our downloads area back in 2016.

Thanks for that info! So, when I took the cap off, I found that the valve was stuck in an open position (makes sense if that is resting position, as the cylinder likely sat for a very long time and got gummed up/stuck in that position). The spring couldn't close it. In fact, there is a hole in the end of the cap, and pressing a flat punch against the valve, it did not move - it was stuck tight. Stuck in the open position, fluid just moved freely in both directions. The rear circuit didn't build any pressure. I just got back from the garage - I am done for the night. This time I was able to bleed the MC rear circuit with no issue. Then, I was able to bleed all four corners. I seem to have a solid brake pedal at this point. Hurrah - I got something done today after all. Now, I have the clutch circuit to bleed. And then, I'll try to fire it up and drive it around the neighborhood a bit.

I finally got around to doing the plastic trim and tried this rad paint alongside the traditional SEM way. The SEM way was much simpler than I had imagined and the results were fantastic, practically factory fresh. I followed this demo from the product https://semproducts.com/product/color-coattm-mixing-system/system#product-videos I just did one of the rear panels and it literally took me 20 mins from start to finish and that includes total drying time and ready to install. Sounds crazy, but really it was that easy. If anyone still needs to do this here are the products I used I started from left to right, hosed it and washed it with the soap and pad. Dried it then wiped it down with the plastic prep and it quickly evaporated on its own. Then a quick thin coat of the promoter and quickly followed with several light coats of the landau black. Below is a picture of it fully dry, this is not still wet it literally dried in like 60 secs basically bonding to the plastic.