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Here is a full shot of my seats. Thin flat bottoms. Simple four bolt mounting. Light and comfy Beware of statements on their site about “Leather”. They mean “Really really great quality synthetic leather”, but not leather…..

Ever wonder why your turn signals act a bit wonky or even stop working??? Here are the contacts for the '72 switch I recently worked on. That's a nasty buildup of carbon to block the flow of power. The second pic is the same contacts after working them over with a small file (a points file to be specific 😉).

I just did that, waiting to hear back, will see how long I can string him along😄

I did just that, told him I was local and wanted to see the car. Guess what, no response whatsoever. It's a common scam on CL that catches many gullible buyers out.

The clunk in the passenger side rear suspension turned out to be a result of me not having tightened down the nylock nut on the top of the strut. I remember now that I didn't do it because I thought I might have to take it off again before getting the car back on the road and I didn't want to have to replace it. Neither side was tight enough, but only the passenger side was clunking. I tightened them up and the clunk is gone! In fact I've never driven a Z as quiet and (relatively) well-behaved on rough roads! If anyone happens to know the torque spec for those nuts on KYB rear shocks, let me know. I dug around a little, but didn't find anything. The TachMatch was shipped four days ago and has so far made it from Seattle to Los Angeles. I guess I should consider that to be progress, but it's not exactly the most obvious route to Toronto. I checked the resistance of the fuel sending unit and it's showing 0 ohms, so I think I'm just going to order a new one and move on. There are some gaps between the hatch seal and the bottom of the hatch, which explains the "richness" of the interior environment. Tomorrow I think I'll try filling the gaps with a towel or something to see how much I can seal it up. The sides of the hatch seem to be well sealed, so I'm not sure why the gaps exist at the bottom. Both hinges are interfering with the top of the hatch seal, but I'm hoping the exhaust isn't getting in up there. Slowly, but surely ...

The console is from a late model Subaru Impreza. Just cuz it has seat heater buttons does not mean they are hooked up…. Better than than empty holes in the console

Next up is a topic we are all familiar with to some degree, getting an accurate fuel level reading on your stock gauge. This is true whether you have a stock sender or not! I have a 240-33 ohm (E-F) aftermarket sender in my tank, (90-10 is stock), and desperately want to maintain my stock dash gauge. Gotta keep that special early sweep style 69 510 dash. So I discovered what appears to be the only aftermarket resistance converter/calibrator out there. And it’s a good one. It small, well priced, and VERY well engineered. Highly recommended. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=748/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd748.htm

The Tanks metermatch seems to be identical to the Technoversions unit, same supplier I think and they do the same job but Technoversions is a few bucks cheaper. https://www.technoversions.com/MeterMatch.html

Here is a screen shot of the first post they just put up. Nice headrests.

Last few days I've just been futzing on small things - not enough energy to pull the trans Tuesday - after napping most of the day away, I had to get something done so I replaced the 3 kitchen counter receptacles with GFCI - been meaning to do that for years also got another coat of paint on the garage bump out, and started cleaning up the trim. I'm not great at cutting trim Today I added an 8' LED light on the left, 2 fluorescent units on the cross beam Fixed the base of the attic stairs - old base sheet was 1/4" - I changed it with 3/4" and bonded the tie plates to it. Much more rigid & secure now. The other thing I'm always missing is a secure place to put the odds & ends I end up working with - I made a frame to retain 3 trays I have -instead of having to have it in the way on the bench, or under

LX-B seats. Rolla Resources on Facebook does them. They take old ones and make new ones.

For this first batch of the kits, payment can be sent via PayPal (Friends & Family), ApplePay, or Venmo. I'll refund if kit doesn't work for you, if you send it back. PM me for 'send to' info since I'm not sure if it's proper to post that in this thread. I can also send you my phone number if want to talk it over first. Also, the cable hole on the bracket is 3 3/8" from the center of the SU stud. Make sure that works for your setup. The bracket is made of 14 GA (.074") steel, and the lever is 11 GA (.120"). Thanks, Ken

Ok, a few minutes for an update to what’s going on technology wise on the 510 project First, an update on the speedo cable drive. I couldn’t get the Dakota DIgital box to read the VSS out of my ECU for reasons I have not resolved, so I went the lazy route and bought the one from Speed hut that uses GPS as an input. It has been operating flawlessly, EVEN on a recent trip through the mountains (unlike my satellite radio….). While it can be calibrated to any speedo, somehow this work of art managed to read PERFECTLY out of the box on my Metric KPH marked 69 510 sweep style 50+ year speedometer. Maybe the RPM/MPH thing is pretty standard across speedometers….. https://speedhut.com/supershops/speedbox-without-mechanical-cable-gps-vss-to-mechanical-drive-speed-converter/

I knew “Seat belt extensions” were a thing, but in a bit of a uncomfortable way for the “circumferentially challenged” shall we say, but did not realize you could get really short ones. Well you can. Here are the proof of the success of these little gems. All $17 bucks worth Another solution to yet another challenge in the custom car world. And check out the pretty seats…