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I also made a quick walk around video as the car sits now. There are still a lot of parts to add to the car. So, I am hopeful that the gap between the wheel wells and the tires shrinks quite a bit, giving the car a much more pleasing visual stance. I am guessing that the car is easily 500 lbs lighter as it sits now without hood, glass, interior, bumpers, fluids, etc.

I would take off the valve cover and pour some oil or put some prelube on the second cylinder valves. Set the valve cover on and start it up. If it taps, repeat on cylinder 3. If i make it go away, I would look at oil delivery. External spray bar or through cam? Possibly replace the oil pump or go to the turbo pump. Heavier oil might help overall but will delay oil delivery when cold.

Here are a bunch of pics of the door latches and receivers. I will say my efforts here were excessive... that I pulled apart two sets of latch components to acquire enough parts in very good condition to make one excellent pair. The plastic wedges can wear. So, a passenger side wedge to replace a driver side wedge that is worn is a good option. I had the parts plated individually. Springs received black, tubular rivets received yellow chromate, and the dove tails received clear zinc. NOS strikers were sourced along the way of my very many hours looking for parts for this car online. The new dove tails are symmetrical, while the old ones are not. Also, the new ones have much smaller openings for the screws and conical serrated washers. I used a deburring tool to open up the screw holes which allowed the screws to fit closer to flush - more like the originals. Semi tubular rivets were press out of the receivers, plated and will (hopefully) be reused after re-plating. I will need to fold over the metal pn the end of the rivet to secure the rivets in place:

Just rebuilt my rack. Just a PSA regarding the rubber boots. The MOOG ones listed on rock auto will be way too big. These ones from beck/arnley, part number 103-2697, are a better fit. Not perfect, but definitely workable. I believe they’re technically for a Miata. About $15 each on Amazon. Just thought I’d share in case somebody else is having trouble finding something that fits… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hard pass.. Tried previously, seller raised price.

Yes, rack moves easily fully left and fully right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Car is looking great! Good point on the new dovetails. Mine were the same way. If you dont open up the holes or use different screws the bolt will hit the metal on the striker(at lesst mine did). I guess the smaller hole would be stronger and less likely to crack, like all the originals I have seen, but you cant use the oem screws. I opened mine up too, as I like oem screws and I rebuilt my hinges, so it doesnt sag as much as it used too. I dont think Nissan expected these cars to be on the road this long!

After seeing this post, I just checked my (12/70) Z’s spare also a Toyo Z-1. Didn’t realize I had a 53 year old tire.

Labubre, thanks for the responses. With a lot of searching online, I found and ordered these from AliExpress. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255800868204144.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.2.3dc8f19cQNzd73&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa They might be just a bit too large a diameter to fit, but hoping to be able to modify them enough to work. But I'll look around for the B210 ones you linked just in case. Good luck with your project. I definitely will finish my 280Z restoration in 2024. I actually drove it on the road right before Christmas, first time since 1992. I've owned it since 1989. Thanks again, Jim