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I dont have any pictures but I just got off the phone with the engine guy. He said oil rings were collapsed. He said they were total garbage. He said the compression rings were already showing wear that he didnt like. I sure wish I knew the name of the rings we used. I wish I would of had a recording of him when I asked if they were in right side up! I got an earful. It looks like its going to work out. I will keep the gang posted.

Ordered several things yesterday from Zcardepot. Shortly after I ordered I remembered I needed a gasket. I sent them an email last night. This morning I got a notice that the order had shipped. I thought, oh well, I guess they didnt get my email. A couple of hours later I get an email saying "Here's an invoice for the gasket, just pay it and will will drop in the box, we are holding the shipment for you". Hard to beat that kind of attention.

OK - so with mine, cleaning the contacts & replacing the rivets with brass screws has resolved the lack of contectivity. circuit open circuit closed

Well there's your problem right there, California Datsun. I used Hasting chrome faced rings on my 240 rebuild. Any machine shop can get those and the price was reasonable.

Another option would be to get butyl rubber in a caulk gun and chase the leaks with the smoke machine again. Rather than trying to seal the whole gasket, just put dabs where they are leaking while using the smoke.

3M trim adhesive *should* come off the body in the future. It's sticky and gooey, but it does come off. Besides, who cares about the next guy? 🙂 Seriously though, I'd rather have a sealed panel than worry about what might happen to somebody else in the future if they try to remove the lights.

All of the gaskets I have removed on old Z's were "stuck" to the body. I would either use something like 3M trim adhesive, or maybe contact cement on the gaskets. Glad to hear the smoke machine worked though. Sealing the leaks is much easier than finding the leaks.

Primed & painted the cowl, and prepped the underside of the cowl panel have to make new foam pads for the cowl cover to replace these

A few years ago, I was in the middle of restoring the heater/blower system for my 70. All of the foam gaskets were shot, so I made tracings and used them to fabricate replacements from foam sheet. My approach involved making paper cut-outs that I could glue to the foam sheet and then use as a guide for cutting out the shapes and punching the holes. I didn't want to risk malking a mistake with my original tracings, so I scanned them into .pdf files and then used those to print out the pieces that I eventually glued to the foam. I ended up with a library of .pdf files for all of the system's gaskets. I posted these as part of a how-to article, but another member recently contacted me to say that they won't download any more. For that reason, I'm re-posting them here. Hope they can help someone else with their restoration. They should come out of your printer in 1:1 scale. For most of these gaskets, I recommend that you use the 1mm-thick closed-cell neoprene foam sheets that you can buy at crafts stores like Michaels. These sheets already have adhesive on one side, so they're very easy to use. You'll probably need at least a dozen sheets (maybe more). You'll need something thicker and softer to make the pads for the big airflow control flaps. I recommend 1/4"-thick open-cell foam. They need to be covered with thin, soft vinyl sheet. The foam that lines the plenum box for the centre air outlet grill is intended to reduce airflow noise. It needs to be made from open-cell foam (1/8"-thick). 240Z 1970-71 Series 1 - HVAC Foam Gasket Templates.zip

Ca Datsun is where the engine parts came from.