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Somethings wrong if revving it doesn't move the gauge some. Professionally rebuilt by whom? My first thing would be an oil change. Look for problems with the oil. Next would be pulling the pan and checking sump pickup. Maybe my first thing would be pull the valve cover first and check for oil flow there...

This gauge might work better: https://www.amazon.com/CWB00060-Liquid-Filled-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00TYY8L2M

That's the ballast resistor. So conventional wisdom says the 4 wire tach won't work well with the ZX ignition. I didn't have the ZX ignition in my 240Z long enough to confirm it. I have the Pertronix with no ballast resistor and no issues with the tachometer. If you wire the car with fidelity to the FSM wiring diagram, you would need to do the following to go with conventional wisdom: Swap 280Z tach internals into the 240Z tach. Jumper the black/white and green/white wires at tach connection in the dash harness. Run a wire from coil negative to the tachometer and have a 2.2k Ohm 1/2 watt resistor between the coil and the tachometer.

Sump pump? I have no idea what this means. A house I lived in once had a sump pump in the basement. Your L series engine has an oil pump. The pan doesn’t have to be removed to take the oil pump off, it bolts to the lower right front corner of the timing chain cover. Four bolts, drops right out. You may have to take the front stabilizer bar loose to get room.

I told you. A friend of mine has a cam cover that he cut the top off of, only over the valvetrain, so the upper chain sprocket and chain don’t throw oil across the shop. Then he fitted a piece of lexan as a window. He only uses it to verify cam and valvetrain lubrication. Glamour photographers smear Vaseline on a filter screwed on the lens to make a soft, blurry effect. I don’t think that’s what you have tried to do here Wally. It is great that you post pictures and videos to help us understand what the malfunction may be, but honestly, it isn’t easy to see anything here. Too blurry. I recognize the things in the images, cam, towers, followers, etc. I see there is oil there, but the poor image quality makes it difficult to accurately judge if there is, or is not, enough oil. I assume you are using a cell phone. No worries , it is possible to coax a reasonably executed picture to share what you see. A clean lens is important, and also, consider the direction of light around the things you want to take snapshots of. Any light source, sunlight, fluorescent shop lighting, desk lamps, if they are in a position that the light falls directly on the image sensor in the phone, they cause glare, partly because of the low quality plastic lens, and the cover over it, and partly because the tiny image sensor can’t resolve such strong light directed at it, and compromise an already marginal image quality. I find the best light source is a bright sunny day, and the sun is coming from over my shoulder (right or left, doesn’t matter), not from behind me, if I see my shadow in front of my, the light is not coming from the side.

The cylinder block deck has a bushing (if memory serves it is brass) pressed into a counterbore at the oil passage from the block to the head. Some people like to open it up a bit when hot rodding the L series engine. They think it will aid in getting more oil into the cylinder head (cam, followers, etc). I dunno. My kid brother was “helping” with an engine build once and he oversized it a bit, against my wishes. I had to shim the pressure relief springs in the pump to get the oil pressure back where I wanted it. Besides, I wasn’t, and never did have, lubrication troubles with any L series engine I’ve built. Could you explain to me what you hope to find? If the engine was properly cleaned prior to assembly, and if it was assembled correctly*, and you haven’t introduced anything to the crankcase that shouldn’t be there, what will that achieve? *During assembly, some people use silicone sealer in places it isn’t needed**, in amounts that far exceed the amount needed. I have seen where excessive squeeze out of the sealer has later come loose. These chunks of sealant then can get ingested into the oil system and cause problems. This is easy to verify, without removing the pan. Simply observe the parting line between the pan and the lower crankcase rail. It there evidence of sealant use? If so, how much? The amount seen outside should be about the amount that would also be squeezed inside. **The correct oil pan and cam cover gaskets do not require any sealant to be use to ensure no leaks. I use them on all my L series engines, with no sealer, and no oil leaks.

You could take the plugs out, dry them, and turn the engine over without plugs in to make sure you don't have too much fuel in the cylinders. You should really verify that the cam is getting oiled before you run the car, though.

My experience back in 2015. YES you need both ends of the connector. The VC connectors are the same, but diffrrent. If you know what I mean. I couldn't get the little bugger to fit (probably used other words at the time) and had to order the other side to match. Lucky I could order them through a local supplier Rick Donkers auto electrics. VC suggested him.

First, why are you guys recommending a pressure gauge for a water system? Buy a good quality oil pressure gauge like Stewart Warner or Autometer. These can be had at local auto parts stores. Next, the recommendation to check inside the cam cover through the oil cap is a good one, as indeed the oil can be seen, but it still does give any idea what the pressure is. Running the engine with the cam cover is not a good idea, even when taking precautions to catch the oil that will get thrown about, and, you still won’t have a clue about how much oil pressure the pump is producing. And even with measures in place to catch the mess, you will have engine oil on the ceiling of your shop. Don’t ask me how I know. Once it is determined the oil pressure is inadequate, the cause needs to be determined. The only way to do that is to remove the pump, disassemble it and inspect it for wear or damage. The shop manual details the inspection process, inspection of the gerotor for defects and damage, and clearances. It is possible the spring in the bypass valve has broken or become weak. It is also possible that the oil passages weren’t fully cleaned, and something has clogged a passage. Something as small as a human hair can block enough oil flow to cause lubrication failure.

Okay, it doesn't need to be 10AWG. It doesn't carry that much current, especially if you go to an LED headlight.

Check with a mechanical gauge.

Indeed. What would have been the point for the factory engineers to bring an S20-engined car to a territory where there were no intention to sell and/or race it. I put it down to either a misunderstanding or mis-remembering something else. A lone S20 (race) engine cutaway was shown at some European car shows in the late 1960s as a general promotional tool, but no S20-equipped cars. North America? Closest proximity I could ever get was somewhat more southerly... In December 1970, SCCN works team drivers Haruhito Yanagida and Masami Kuwashima took a race-prepped 432-R over to Brazil to compete in two rounds of the 'Copa Brasil de Automobilisimo Internacional' race series at the Interlagos track in São Paulo: I've talked to them both about it, and it was an interesting story.

Thank you All, thank you. I should not say all S30 have same , thank you Alan. I should say in terms of early S30s,I looked up Oct 1969 LHD 240Z parts catalog, Dec 1970 RHD 240Z parts catalog, Mar 1970 Fair lady-Z parts catalog. Springs are all the same except Z432. (for RHD 240Z, there is an option though) Shock absorbers are all the same even Z432. Some point in 1970, changes were made. Mr.Miyazaki( S30 test team, not test crew in the U.S. late 1969) show us some reports, Euro 240Z was finally settled in Mar 1971. The one interesting reports there,it says Apr 1970 : at Yatabe test circuit, Euro version (HLS30Q) project started using HLS30U( US spec) they found bad cross wind stability in high speed cruising Jun 1970 : Euro version was set. It says this suspension set up is same as Z432, same spring rates and same front / rear stabilizer.Shocks are the same of all the S30. At this point, rear spoiler only. Aug 1970 : Above Euro car(s?) was shipped by boat to DATSUN Netherlands Nov 1970 : DATSUN Netherlands tested and reported feed backs.They said "The side wind stability is Very Bad. This is caused by the following points" 1,The center of gravity is a bit too high 2,Too much body roll caused by bad shock absorber 3,Roll bars in front and rear are too light After this reports, the team took immediate action.First, they took a rally car Monte spec, then tested. to be continued. kats

They left off the "w". You should adjust whole plug not just half of it.